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Posts: 392
Location: KY | How do you secure the front body section on a through-wire tail rotating bait to keep it from sliding back and interfering with the rotating tail? Eg. suick, water chopper, pacemaker, stomper, tally wacker, turr-bo. Etc.
Thanks,
Bruce
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Posts: 60
Location: Germantown,wi | I use a stainless rivet body that is soldered to the thru wire shaft, that keeps the body in place. I make all my baits with the rivet body on the front and back of the lure. |
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Posts: 222
Location: c.wis | does anyone have anything to add besides this? ive never really studied a lure like this I want to make one aswell? |
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Posts: 2378
| epoxy |
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Posts: 910
Location: Hastings, mn, 55033 | I also use rivets and solder the wire to the rivet. |
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Posts: 222
Location: c.wis | what about the blade, is it better to mount near the back of the segment or to the middle? and is there a supplier that makes them. ive look through numerous catalogs and called a few other suppliers with no luck. is it best to buy some stailess at a hvac place and make them out of that? also if you dont use shrinkwrap on the rear treble does it cause problems? like effecting the rotation? |
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Posts: 392
Location: KY | Thanks for the responses. Sounds like a rivet soldered to the wire is the way to go. I was trying to avoid using a bend in the wire.
eric001, I bought some tails from Moore's
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Posts: 222
Location: c.wis | thanks but I want a blade from a topraider style lure |
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Posts: 910
Location: Hastings, mn, 55033 | Moores has a blade similar to the top raider style. Go to page 25 of the online catalog, blade "LL".
http://mooreslures.com/2009-10catalog.pdf
Edited by castmaster 5/12/2009 7:51 AM
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Posts: 4053
Location: Land of the Musky | eric001-You can mount that blade about anywhere you want to. The blades need to be shaped correctly and angled correctly for your bait depending on the weighting of the bait (center of gravity), and a few other aspects. Each bait is different and a shape/angle of attack for one blade on a one lure will not work on many others. Double props are much easier but then you won't get that "pop" you get from a single blade. I have made a lot of topwaters that simply do not work. Your best bet is to do the same I learn a LOT more on the 9 topwaters that do not work vs the one that does when I am tinkering around.
JMO
James
PS-Post some pictures too when you are done or in process of making one. |
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Posts: 4053
Location: Land of the Musky | PS-You can also use ball spacers like that are use in the in-line bucktails for spacing the parts away from each other but those rivets give a nice squeeeeek! Use the rivets if you can and get some good metal to metal sqeeeeeek going.
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