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Posts: 1316
Location: Madison, WI | So I'm going to take a stab at winterizing the motor, I could use some advice on products. I have a 125hp 2 stroke merc
Motor flusher
Gear oil, does brand matter? Are there different weights?
Fogger: does brand matter?
Going to change the plugs
Put some seafoam in the gas tank
what else am I missing?
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Posts: 1316
Location: Madison, WI | When looking at motor flushers, what's the difference; single feed/dual feed?
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/product/standard-item.j...
Edited by Magruter 11/24/2008 11:43 AM
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Posts: 147
Location: Milwaukee, WI | Recently attended a local fishing club meeting & the guest speaker that evening is a mechanic at one of Milwaukee's larger boat dealers: MW Marine. He spoke for close to an hour about winterizing your boat.
He warned us that not all fogging oils are equal. There are some made with a kerosene base that will run-off over time. He stated the Merc fogging oil does not contain kerosene and it will cling to cylinder walls for a longer period.
Also, with increasing usage of Ethanol in gasolines everywhere, it becomes more important than ever to either: drain the fuel system of all gas, or add a stabilizer and run the outboard for a duration that gets stabilized fuel into all parts of the fuel system.
Also, DO NOT fog a 4-stroke motor through the intake ports! Fog them ONLY via the spark plug holes. (a lesson I learned the hard way!  ) |
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Posts: 412
Location: Waukesha, WI | Scott, other items I'd do:
take the prop off and make sure there isn't any line or other debris wrapped around the prop shaft. 2-4 C grease that baby back up again and put 'er back together.
put biodegradable antifreeze into the livewell from the intake to make sure if there is any water in the corrugated hose it doesn't freeze. If the seem is at the bottom, I was told there's a remote chance it could crack. I also did the same with the bilge pump.
trim the motor down for storage
grease all fittings with 2-4 C
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Posts: 1316
Location: Madison, WI | Thanks guys
Should I be looking for a specific spark plug? |
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Posts: 147
Location: Milwaukee, WI | Always start with the spark plug your owner's manual recommends.
Have you had poor performance in the past ? If not, get a new set of what is installed in it currently.
There are usually a couple of part numbers of a given brand that are compatible with your motor. They are classified by "heat ranges". This is a subject to discuss with a good marine mechanic. They can examine the used plugs (BEFORE fogging)and can "read" visual clues about plug/engine compatibility. Your "style" of operation; the ratio of high speed vs low speed operation, has a bearing on what heat range plug is best.
I use the NGK brand that is listed in my owner's manual & have not had any issues so far. So, I stick with them. And, I don't throw out the used plugs. I put them in a baby food jar containing a mix of gasoline & carb cleaner & let them soak over the winter. I can clean them up with an old toothbrush next spring. That way, I cycle between 2 or 3 sets of plugs.
Also, pay attention to setting the correct gap on new spark plugs. Again, your owner's manual will have the gap specification for your motor.
Pay VERY close attention whenever re-installing the spark plugs!! If you cross-thread or strip the spark plug holes, its an expensive repair job due to the aluminum cylinder heads on most outboards. Use a torque wrench or only hand tighten them using a short lever-arm wrench. I put a small dab of anti-sieze compound on the threads of each plug.
Its a good idea to keep a new, spare set of spark plugs on-board your boat in case you have problems on the water. Sometimes, changing them where you're stalled will get you running again. |
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| How do you drain the fuel syteem of all gas as mentioned in an above post?
I have alway put stable in my gas tank, but I do not run it through the motor.
Since I already have the boat in the garage, is it easy to just drain the gas from the fuel system?
Thanks. |
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Posts: 4266
| Detatch the feed line, connect to hose and run it until it dies. Check your fuel filter and empty the 'cup' if you have one. I change my fuel filter every year because it is so easy to get at.
Be careful with the biodegradable anti-freeze. If it sits in your pumps, it can turn your empellers to mush.
Beav |
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Posts: 412
Location: Waukesha, WI | Beaver - 11/25/2008 5:37 PM
Be careful with the biodegradable anti-freeze. If it sits in your pumps, it can turn your empellers to mush.
Beav
that's disheartening as the items I mentioned also came from a winterizing seminar I attended in Fall '02. |
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Winterizing equipment?