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| the recent "loss" (read-in: theft) of my digital camera means i have to replace it.
we've been talking about getting an SLR for 5 or 6 years now, so rather than get another point-and-shoot to replace the one we had, i figured i'd use this as incentive to upgrade to a digital SLR camera.
i'm not a professional photographer, but i really enjoy taking good pictures: snapshots of people and fish of course, but also landscape nature shots, ultra-zoom detail studies, high-speed action shots, and especially pictures in low-light or interesting light conditions.
value is more important to me than cost.
quality is more important to me than value.
finding value and quality is ideal.
what are your experiences and suggestions?
- camera bodies
- lenses
thanks!
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Posts: 1769
Location: Algonquin, ILL | See Your PM
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Location: Bloomington, IL | Well, we are still using the packaged lense, but i can't say enough good things about our Nikon D40x
My wife has had 2 bouts with malignant melanoma...well, one, and then a reoccurance, so we bought it to start tracking all of her moles visually. So for that, we definately needed a good camera, but one that didnt' break the bank.
Its got a great balance between automatic and adjustability....if you just feel like pointing and shooting, set it to auto, and let it do its thing. thats how we started...and using the preset settins as well, but once we started to learn more about apterture size(clearly not about spelling..HA!), shutter speed, iso settings, blah blah blah, we found that we started putting it into manual mode and making it do what we wanted more and more. So its really nice to have both options available. There are also a number of good lenses available....but like i said, we are still using the packaged lense.
One thing I can definitely say is, read about them all over the net....but....make sure you get your hands on them. We were all set to get teh Canon XTi, until i actually got to use it, and it felt very akward to use. Didnt' fit my hands well, and the menu layout wasn't my fav either. So make sure you get some 'touchy feely' time with whatever you like before buying it!! | |
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Location: Mendota Heights, MN | D40x Nikon is older model, has been replaced this year though I am sure you can still find them around.
Bought a Canon Rebel XSi with 8 gig card and telephoto lens. Have taken over 2000 pics so far with it and love it.
Steve
Edited by Phoenix 9/26/2008 10:08 AM
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Location: Stevens Point, WI | I've taken over 6000 images in the past six months with my Nikon D50 and absolutely love it! The thing I'm most impressed with, and may not be such a big deal to most people but the battery life on the Nikon's are just unbelievable. By far the best battery life I've ever seen on any camera.
I've had opportunities to try Cannon's and don't get my wrong, they are nice, however, I don't think there as user friendly in my opinion. A Nikon D40 with a Nikkor 18-55mm lens will do everything you need and more.
No matter what, both the Cannon and Nikon will do what you want but I'd take a close look at the Nikons. | |
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Location: Madison, WI | http://www.kenrockwell.com/
I've used this site in the past, some great reviews on cameras and lenses.
and another site that's very up-to-date on what's up there.
http://www.dpreview.com/
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Location: Norway | I just bought an 60d (D60 as theyre called here) for my job. Ive been a Nikon guy the 13 or so years Ive been working as a photographer, and this "amateur" model really impresses me. Very good picture quality and easy to use. Downside, for me, is its to small, I like my grips! And as TJ said, the battery cap. is amazing, even my old 70d has very good battery life, which will be even longer if you use an external flash (when needed)
I got a kit lens, 18-55 (I think) and Im sure the kits over there are basically the same as here
BUT, those cheaper models arent sealed up as much as those in the "semi pro" and "pro" lines, which IMO also is a thing to consider, since you use it alot around the wet element. Its more pricey offcourse, but could be worth it...
I use the 70d when out fishing (old and was cheap) and has a decent weather sealing.
As for Canon, even tho Im a nikon guy, I dont hesitate to recommend Canon, theyre both great, so it comes down to which one that feels right.
Michael | |
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| can someone speak to the ease of use and understanding of the manual settings? for example, the Pentax is reputed to have slightly less user-friendly manual modes; full capabilities but not as easy to learn.
what advantages have the manual settings offered you? i've seen a lot of people with expensive cameras that they just put on auto and press the button. to me that's a waste of money and i'd be better off with a nice point-and-shoot.
what have the manual settings enabled you to do that the auto settings don't?
BUT, those cheaper models arent sealed up as much as those in the "semi pro" and "pro" lines, which IMO also is a thing to consider, since you use it alot around the wet element. Its more pricey offcourse, but could be worth it...
how important is the weather and dust sealing? ie., what happens in a non "weather resistant" SLR camera that could be a problem?
the Pentax model that's comparable to the Nikon d60 and Canon Eos does come with weather seals only available on higher level models in the other brands.
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Location: Madison, WI | One last site for ya.
http://www.fredmiranda.com/
They have some very active BST boards. | |
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Location: Stevens Point, WI | Also, as for weather conditions, I can't think of any conditions this summer my camera didn't see. The only exception would be a hurricane but it's hard to have that problem when there not located around here. | |
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Location: Norway | The weather sealing isnt alpha omega, but a thing to consider. And its a vast difference between a fisherman and a newsphotographer working in warzones. But you have the cameras that are inbetween.
And I do agree, that a dslr on full auto is a big, bulky, tho alittle faster point and shoot camera. That said, when out fishing, its not my artistic skills that are in focus, but the wellbeeing of the fish, auto, point and shoot 
But when I photograp a 9 month old turbo diesel girl, prancing around like a tit, I use manual and all DSLR's are...was alittle awkward to me, Ive been used to set the f-stop by turning a ring on the lens, and now its a dial. And on the mentioned d60, there isnt a dedicated one either, and I didnt like that at first, but you get used to it. I also still use one of my old Nikkor lenses, its from 1965 or older (when nikon changed their bayonettmount and I had to file the lens mount to make it fit) on my d70, and I am forced to work very manually, no autofocus, no light meter etc etc and I really love it
If you get a nikon, Canon or Pentax; Photography is seeing...
Michael | |
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Location: Mendota Heights, MN | I think when it comes to the Nikon / Cannon debate both are easy to use great brands that you really cant go wrong with. Guys at National Camera and West photo agreed.
As far as the weatherproofing or what have you. I am super careful about getting mine wet. Though I did spill a bit of beer on it trying to handle a large brat, tall bottle, and getting a picture. hey it was a cow festival. another story anyway.....
I find my Cannon very easy to use in custom or auto, the menu is easy to navigate. The camera is just fun to use. I especially like setting up bracketed shots and then shoot multiple pics in a row. Then i go back and delete the over/under exposed images.
Oh yea, has a remote too. Handy for solo pics for sure. But I use it when I am taking longer exposures so I don't move the camera by pushing the shutter release.
Whatever you get, get a large HIGH SPEED card for it, you will be glad you did.
Also nice is a Polorized lens filter. Great for bright days or shooting on the water.
Good luck. Don't go Pentax though..
Steve | |
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Location: Mendota Heights, MN | Oh yea, one last point. I never shoot in Auto. I always use some variation of Manual,
either AV or TV or Full Manual.
My wife shoots in Auto mode. If you are going to shoot in auto mode i would recommend a less expensive camera. Rebels and D's are entry level pro models which is overkill if all you need is point and shoot.
Also, don't get hung up on too many quirks. It's all about the glass.
Steve
Edited by Phoenix 9/26/2008 3:13 PM
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| I think your over analyzing the purchase of a camera. I think all the cameras you mention Lambeau are so good that if you want to put that camera on auto and go, the images you take could be publication quality. that's just it, i don't want to "put it on auto and go." obviously that will be true for most images, but there are point-and-shoot cameras available with good lenses that can handle that kind of a task. it's the unusual and artistic shots that make it worth buying a camera with greater capabilities.
and since i'll actually be buying my camera and spending in the neighborhood of $700 for it before additional lenses, i'll go ahead and analyze it rather than just using the one that's given to me.
I've talked to some very good photographers, actual professional photographers at the FLW Walleye events this past summer and I think everyone I talked to have had their cameras set on auto. One photographer in particular who I have kinda become friends with is a guy in charge of the FLW magazine. He takes 1000's of images a year and for most shooting conditions his camera is on a auto setting.
yes, the auto settings (and even moreso the quick settings) cover the range of most shooting conditions. that's why they're there. what do your professional photog friends do when they go beyond that?
when using auto you're essentially relying on a good lens to provide you with a decent picture because the computer is making all the decisions for you. this is plenty fine for getting quality photographs for well-lit shots, but that is exactly what i want to go beyond: less snapshots and more photographs. most any camera can take shots of guys on a well-lit stage; being able to take quality shots in unique lighting conditions and settings where you want to do something different than the computer is the real power of an SLR.
for example, here's a couple of the pictures you took during the Hodag tourney, both with adequate lead time to change settings if you wanted to:
1) boatside release
this is a very very good picture, if it was framed a bit wider it would be a great picture; well composed, and the colors are bright and crisp while also capturing the more subtle differences in the fish. under good light conditions (not too bright, not too dark) the camera's automated setting decisions did a great job for you.
2) boat in parking lot
this is a poor photograph; the contrast and balance are blurry, the lighting and exposure choices didn't allow for enough detail to be captured. essentially, the computer couldn't figure out what to do to improve the image clarity because it was dark. would turning off the flash and forcing a longer exposure have made a difference?
this is what i'm wondering about, how easy the various cameras are to use to get good images during challenging conditions.
if/when you add optional lenses, does this becomes even more true? (i assume so?) is there a big difference in glass quality? | |
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Location: Norway | lambeau - 9/26/2008 3:28 PM
is there a big difference in glass quality?</p><p> </p>
Oh yes there is.
I have one of the cheapest kit lenses available from nikon, and theres clearly a difference between that one and the one that are 3x more expsensive, sharpness AND colors. Also lenses with no zoom have fewer glasses and are thus generally more sharp. Cheaper lenses can also often be more unsharp on the edges of the frame.
Another q is, do you actually notice unless you scrutinize the image...
Michael | |
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| with a little effort, i could do this with my old quality point-and-shoot Olympus. it's a cool shot, "forced" a bit with setting manipulation, but the crispness isn't there as it's pushing the limits of the lens.
i want to be able to do THIS (Steve W): it's both blurry and sharp at the same time, and the lighting dynamics are stunning!
and this (Carroll Winther): the stillness and movement of the shot are both captured. this picture actually suggests certain quiet _sounds_ to me.
i know the lens plays a big role in the 2nd and 3rd picture. i don't know about Steve's beautiful shot for sure, but it looks like it's "sepia" so definitely not a standard setting. (could have been afterwards on the computer, too.) my grandpa's picture was also using the right settings (he was a professional photographer). how much is settings and how much is lens? where are you best off putting your money - in the camera body or extra glass? | |
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Location: Norway | Thats an easy answer Lambeau, buy the camera that meets your need (megapixels, manual settings) and the most expensive lenses you can afford.
Michael | |
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Location: Stevens Point, WI | The two photos of mine you pointed out were exactly what I was looking for. Have to remember, the release photo was very up close and done with a Nikkor 28-80 lens, I have numerous other shots that weren't so close up and were framed a bit wider. I chose to put that shot up since the fish is the focal point The photo of the boat was with a Nikkor 70-300 lens. I was standing 75+ yards from the boat and zoomed in. Meaning with already low light conditions and less light in the aperture, then add that I was zoomed in and that makes it even more difficult for light to enter the aperture. That makes a huge difference in sharpness. However, I wasn't necessarily looking to capture the sharpness. Part of covering the tournament is capturing the time line of the event. So to me it's important to get the shots of the boat with it being dark, that's letting the viewers see how the event is playing out. In other words, it's part of telling a story. The shot would have been a lot different if I wasn't standing so far away, but you can't tell that because I had a 70-300 lens on that camera and zoomed in.
As for the image Sworrall took, that was either taken with a Nikon D40 or D50, in probably auto mode, however, the only difference in his setup verses mine is that he is using a Nikon VR lens. Vr means that it has image stabilization so when were taking images of walleye pros leaving the launch we can capture everything clear as can be with that lens. Also makes getting images of them doing 60mph possible verses a non VR lens it would be blurry.
Edited by Merckid 9/26/2008 4:38 PM
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Location: Mendota Heights, MN | Lots of good advice here for sure. I have noticed a coupple of things that contribute to 'noise" in a photo; focal length (how far do you zoom) , ISO speed, and long exposure time. All of these issues can be corrected or eliminated to a large degree by getting really really really good lenses. Probably in the neighborhood of 2800-3700 $$$!!!!
The Cannon has Image stabilization. Which certainly helps.
I also bought a nice book written just for the camera specifically. I am studying about histograms and exposure algorithms.
Let us know what you decide to go with.
Steve
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| is in-camera stabilization worth it compared to getting lenses that have it?
will you save much since you wouldn't need IS lenses?
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Location: Stevens Point, WI | Well maybe instead of criticizing the image and saying the photo is poor, maybe you should understand things a bit before doing so. I understand and know it wasn't the highest quality of an image but with the conditions I had and the lens I had on at the moment that's what I got. Give me a different lens and me standing a lot closer the image would have turned out completely different.
Take a look at just about every tournament album WalleyeFirst has taken pictures of, you'll find quite a few images just like that one. Again though, it's about capturing the event in a time line sequence, which clearly you didn't catch!
Edited by Merckid 9/29/2008 11:27 AM
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| yep, low-light conditions are challenging. isn't the whole point of getting a camera with better capabilities that it lets you get quality pictures even under challenging conditions? now, not every picture is going to turn out perfect - that's why you take a lot of them and try different things.
notably, i wasn't critical beyond observing that it's a poor image, which it is, and contrasting it to the other good image. i was simply using the poor image to illustrate my earlier question about making use of camera settings beyond "auto", which you claimed was sufficient. it's not.
a person could "put it on auto and go" and "capture an event" to that level of quality with a much less expensive point-and-shoot camera. those cameras are called "point-and-shoot" for a reason...they're great for "putting it on auto and go" type applications, and especially for people who aren't inclined to learn the full range of capabilities of advanced cameras.
what i'm interested in is the advantages offered by the DSLR for taking pictures under less-than-idea or unique conditions.
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Location: Stevens Point, WI | Again Lambeau, you've missed my POINT. I had a 70-300 lens on the camera, standing 75+ yards away from the boat and zoomed in, that's the image you'll get with the conditions that were present. It was 6am with basically no light, so that was what the camera produced with the flash, 75+ yards away. The flash doesn't have the effectiveness that it would have if I was standing 15 yards away.
To make this image better, I would need a different lens and to be standing closer. At the moment of the picture, I had neither.
Here are some images from the PWT Sault Ste. Marie, the same event you pulled the image you posted earlier by Sworrall. The setup he is using is very similar to what I'm shooting, except a little different lens. Point being, the more distance under low light conditions that your away from the object, the more blurry and not so crisp the image will be.
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Location: Stevens Point, WI | First three images are taken pretty close up which the flash was very effective, however, the fourth image the flash played very little role in that image, just like the image I took of the boat. Again, the more distance your from the object with poor lighting, the less detail and sharpness the image will be. | |
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Location: Mendota Heights, MN | I think that the cannon has the image stabilization built into the camera and it only works with auto focus lenses. So while I could through on an old cannon manual lenses (if I had one I really loved) I would lose the auto focus and IS. (i think, I will look it up anyway)
I think your critique of the photos you present is both fair and unfair in that the lens has a lot to do with how these shots turned out. I would love to have a f2.8 lens that stayed at 2.8 from 33-300, but that would break the bank, though it would solve a lot of light problems.
I applaud however your desire to go manual as much as possible to be more creative and artistic with your shots, although this is not what is always called for or needed in a given situation.
Good Luck,
Steve | |
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Location: Mendota Heights, MN | oh one more thing. the shots you are critiquing are low pixel exports for internet viewing. ( i am guessing) If the photographer shot these same images using a large file size or even in RAW, the prints (viewed offline for example)would be vastly different in quaility.
Just a thought,
Steve | |
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Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | lambeau,
The images TJ took were designed to give our visitors the atmosphere at that moment...in an album of probably 100 images form a 1 hour timeframe. if each image was as carefully set up as you insist one needs to be, we'd have 10 photos that would be stunning, but would tell absolutely NO story.
The story told by the X190 shot is..
It's dark so it's VERY early, we are here onsite, shooting in the dark, and in context to the other images, we are not going out on the water yet but will. Context in photo journalism can be everything. If indeed he took a brightly lit flash filled shot, it would simply be a picture of a Tuffy. To answer your question, sure, you could do several things to brighten the shot, if that's your goal.
The shot of the rigs in the fog was taken with a Nikon D40 and a Nikor VR 18-200mm. The camera was set to shutter priority, and the shutter at 800, auto ISO, no forced flash, AF (a feature the I think Canon doesn't have) to Dynamic Area which I personally prefer when I'm shooting moving targets. I focused in tight on that shot, and allowed the background to fall out of focus just a bit, counting on the light to do what I hoped for to the Pros awating the beginning of a fog delayed event on the St. Mary River. I took about a dozen images there, and got 4 that were really cool. The actual light was what you see, just like the shot in the dark of the X190. It was what it was.
Here's an example where auto isn't best, same distance and perspective, first shot on auto and flash, second shutter priority and no flash, speed 500 auto ISO. The first shot is blown out, the second is way better. I was standing in near darkness, with a brightly lit stage in front of me, and the lighting to the back of the stage less than in the center, and even less than the front. A challenge for sure when the guys are literally running around the stage at times.
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Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | Phoenix - 9/29/2008 1:58 PM
I think that the cannon has the image stabilization built into the camera and it only works with auto focus lenses. So while I could through on an old cannon manual lenses (if I had one I really loved) I would lose the auto focus and IS. (i think, I will look it up anyway)
I think your critique of the photos you present is both fair and unfair in that the lens has a lot to do with how these shots turned out. I would love to have a f2.8 lens that stayed at 2.8 from 33-300, but that would break the bank, though it would solve a lot of light problems.
I applaud however your desire to go manual as much as possible to be more creative and artistic with your shots, although this is not what is always called for or needed in a given situation.
Good Luck,
Steve
Steve is absolutely dead on here. If you want to be creative, with the Nikon D40 or D50, I have found you sure can, and if you want to be creative in an action filled, motion filled environment, get a VR lens. I believe the F stop on my 18 to 200 has two settings less than Zach's bigger and more expensive lens, I think this is the zoom lens he shoots: http://walleye.outdoorsfirst.com/leaderboard/llb.asp?t=750&view=ima...
With the rapid burst speed, I can get action shots that really rock, as with this sequence that I actually removed a ton of shots from:
http://walleye.outdoorsfirst.com/leaderboard/llb.asp?t=750&view=ima...
Here's another example of what good glass and manual settings will net you even in tough light with your subject moving fast to the dramatic, once you get used to the camera ( by the way, those two fish were worth $150,000.00 last Saturday to Tommy Skarlis when added to his other 3):
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| lambeau,
The images TJ took were designed to give our visitors the atmosphere at that moment...in an album of probably 100 images form a 1 hour timeframe. if each image was as carefully set up as you insist one needs to be, we'd have 10 photos that would be stunning, but would tell absolutely NO story.
notably, i never insisted that YOU guys do anything. i offered an example of two pictures, one that i said was good and one that i said was poor. in my opinion they are good and poor respectively. i used them as examples to ask a question: would using the more complex manual settings result in a better picture? i couldn't care less whether or not YOU actually take better pictures, i want to know if the use of manual rather than auto setting could make it better. TJ's advice was to "put it on auto and go", which seemed flat out wrong to me.
To answer your question, sure, you could do several things to brighten the shot, if that's your goal.
The shot of the rigs in the fog was taken with a Nikon D40 and a Nikor VR 18-200mm. The camera was set to shutter priority, and the shutter at 800, auto ISO, no forced flash, AF (a feature the I think Canon doesn't have) to Dynamic Area which I personally prefer. I focused in tight on that shot, and allowed the background to fall out of focus just a bit, counting on the light to do what I hoped for to the Pros awating the beginning of a fog delayed event on the St. Mary River. I took about a dozen images there, and got 4 that were really cool.
when reporting on events you have time constraints that hobbyist photographers do not have, and as such i can take the time to set things up more carefully. TJ's answer was myopic and spoke only to his uses and not to my actual question.
by your answer, you suggest that yes indeed, using the manual settings will result in better pictures under those conditions than the auto settings can provide.
thank you, a specific answer rather than generalizations. extremely useful.
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Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | When experts give advice to photographers like you and I on the Nikon D Series prosumer cameras, it's pretty common for them to basically advise...set her to auto, and shoot. The camera is really that good. Once you have learned her well, you still will find yourself using the Auto Mode in many situations in the out of doors.
Here's an excellent article:
http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/ND40/ND40A.HTM
And another:
http://www.dcresource.com/reviews/nikon/d40-review/
You can find a D40 and good glass for under $850 these days, if you look around enough. I love my D50, too, and use it on the water with my giant 300MM autofocus Sigma, and as a back-up with an 18-55 Nikkor or 28 to 70 Sigma strapped to it during inside shoots and stage shoots outside. I have a couple extra 18-55 lenses, so if you can find a 'body only' D40 or 50 right ( 'right' should be about $400 new or better), I'd be happy to give you one of the lenses I have in exchange for a few Weagles or something, which will get you going and give you a great lens to start out with.
Zach shoots a D70 and a D90. What a camera that 90 is.....
Here's a couple shots from last year taken with my D50 and the Sigma telephoto with the settings on Auto. The boats are about 150 yards away and obviously going VERY fast.
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Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | My D 40.
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Location: Mendota Heights, MN | The D40 is a nice camera, its just an old/end of life model now. If you go Nikon, look at the new models, technology changes make it worthwhile to buy the latest you can afford. You questions don't strike me as coming from someone who wants to use 3 year old technology. The D80 has replaced it.
The cannon is also 12.1 megapixel vs 10.2 on nikon D80, or 6.1 (YIKES!) on the D40.
I would also be leery of the processor speed on an older unit.
Checked on the cannon Image Stabilization, and it is the lens, not the body that has IS... Very handy for low light, and in the boat (moving about) and especially when shooting telephoto.
Steve | |
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| for the camera body, here's the points of comparison that i'm looking at:
sensor size: bigger is apparently better, especially for high ISO. i didn't realize that not all megapixels are created equal, and that 10 megapixels with a larger sensor is much better than 10 megapixels on a small sensor.
image stabilization: since a goodly portion of my shots are taken in a boat, IS/VR/OS will help, especially on zoom scenery shots. best i can gather in-lens vs in-camera is just two different ways to do the same thing as long as your lenses match.
viewfinder/lcd: the big advantage of a dslr is seeing the picture you'll actually take and that means using a viewfinder. of course, the lcd screens are nice and make things easy, so a camera with live view lcd is important.
frame rate: i do like to take a lot of action and motion shots, so more fps the better.
lens quality/support: keeping options open for being able to add specialty lenses is good; i don't want to lock myself into a narrow band of options.
price: value over cost, quality over value
what i'm looking at:
Canon EOS Rebel XS
- APS size CMOS sensor, 10.1mp
- in-lens image stabilization
- lcd with live view, non-adjustable
- 3fps, up to 514 frames continuous
- Canon lenses
- around $699 with a 18-55mm Canon lens
Nikon D60:
- APS size CCD sensor, 10.2mp
- in-lens stabilization
- lcd with live view, wide-angle viewing, non-adjustable
- 3fps, up to 100 frames continuous
- Nikkor lenses
- around $699 with a 18-55mm Nikkor lens
Sony Alpha 300:
- APS size CCD sensor, 10.2mp
- in-camera stabilization
- lcd with live view, adjustable screen angles
- 3fps, 6 shot buffer, able to keep shooting while buffer is clearing
- Sony lenses, compatible with high-end Carl Zeiss lenses
- around $599 with a 18-70mm DT lens
any thoughts?
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Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | The D40 is still featured on the Nikon website as a current model, take a look.
http://www.nikonusa.com/Find-Your-Nikon/Digital-SLR/index.page
The 60 is a little faster at 3frames per second VS 2.5. Not sure if you need that, but it's an improvement. the D40and D60 seem to share the same basic features and CCD sensors, etc. and both are current product on the Nikon website, the D50 is a couple years older and is no longer featured. The 60 seems like a bit of an upgrade from the D40, just hard to see where in practical terms other than the speed allowing for 1/2 more frame per second. If that's worth the extra $200, cool beans. I'd rather have another lens for the money, a prime or fish eye, maybe, or upgrade the standard glass.
The 80 is another animal entirely at about $600 sans lens.
Of course, the Dx 40 is also available, at 10.2 megapixel for about $70 less than the 60. 24X36" enlargements VS the 40 at 16X20". Never blew an image up that much yet myself, but I suppose there's an application out there, maybe wall poster size images for the Hunting room.
Does the Canon have AF mode allowing one to define what the autofocus will search for? I remember seeing an article that said no, but I'm not at all sure about the new units they offer. I know it's a very nice feature.
off topic from your question:
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If I was going to spend my money TODAY based on your criteria...there's no way I'm buying anything but a D90. Yes, it's $999.00 body only, but only $1299.00 with a VR lens that reaches out plenty far enough for most uses. The standard features make it head and shoulders above any other camera of any make in that price range, and the D90 shoots beautiful video with the depth of field and incredible colors of a studio TV camera because of the glass, totally replacing most digital camcorder needs. You will have to manual focus the unit, but here's what Zach was able to do in a recent test shooting the D90:
http://walleye.outdoorsfirst.com/watch.asp?id=1163
The 90 even offers optional GPS Geo Tagging.
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I bet the D60 would make you very happy.
I see Canon and Nikon out there amongst the journalists (FLW, In Fisherman, Walleye Fan, Intermedia, Primedia, Newpapers, Lindner media, Jacobs Interactive, etc) who shoot fishing stuff for a living. I can't remember ever seeing a Sony, but I'm sure it's a great camera. No one uses an lcd screen to frame the picture, far as I can see, but a large lcd screen in high resolution is nice to clearly see if you got your shot. I do see a few Fujis out there amongst the guys who are making a living at it.
http://www.nikonusa.com/Find-Your-Nikon/Product/Digital-SLR/25446/D...
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Posts: 185
Location: Mendota Heights, MN | Canon EOS Rebel XS
- APS size CMOS sensor, 10.1mp
- in-lens image stabilization
- lcd with live view, non-adjustable
- 3fps, up to 514 frames continuous
- Canon lenses
- around $699 with a 18-55mm Canon lens
Actually not sure which XS you are talking about here. XSi is 12.1 mp, and shoots 3.5fps on auto continuous and can do so until you fill the card, kill the battery, or get tired and go home. I would have to check the sensor size, but I don't think you will find a full size sensor in anything but a pro model. I know cannons is not full size, but I also read that it was redone for this model and is a big improvement.
As far as the focus selection, you several options as to how/where you would like the lens to focus, you can select with a touch several different fields within the image to focus on for instance. Same for exposure control.
Honestly, i don't think you can go wrong with either the Cannon or the Nikon, and I agree that if I had the money and was buying new again i would take a serious look at the D90.
Steve | |
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| the XSi is a different, slightly higher end model. it's about $699 for camera body only; faster, more megapixels, but same size sensor as the XS.
the XS:
http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/controller?act=ModelInfoAct&fcate...
APS-C size sensor (22.2 x 14.8 mm) with 1.6x lens focal length increase (compared to 35mm film SLR).
bigger is better with sensors; each of the cameras in this class has about the same size: much much bigger than a point-and-shoot, smaller than a pro model. essentially, as a point of comparison, they're equivalent.
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Posts: 335
Location: Minnesota | I have an original Digital Canon Rebel that I still use in the boat. I have no regrets about using this camera over others. I agree with everyone that Canon or Nikon bodies are both great cameras and either would work well for you. Other brands might not have as many choices for accessories or lenses.
With proper shooting techniques you can get great photos without IS but if you can afford it I would highly recomend it for those low light conditions. Every little bit helps there.
Something else to consider also - How easy is it for others to use while fishing with you? After all you don't want to have a camera that is too complicated for anyone to take a picture of you with a fish.
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Posts: 139
| I just purchased an EOS 40D a few months back. My wife has been taking photography classes at the local Junior College (which I would definitely recommend), and this thing is amazing once you know how to use it. By far better picture quality than most other Digital SLR's I've seen (I am by no means an expert....just my opinion). | |
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| Phoenix - 9/28/2008 11:39 PM
Let us know what you decide to go with.
based on the input i got here and elsewhere i was leaning towards the Nikon. thanks for all of your help, it made a huge difference and gave me more confidence diving into a purchase like this.
i found a great deal (i think) on camera, base VR lens, and basic zoom VR lens.
Order Summary:
Nikon D60, 10.2 Megapixel, SLR, Digital Camera
18-55mm AF-S DX VR Lens Kit
Promotional Kit: Tripod, Cleaning Kit, LCD Protector
$461.00
Nikon Zoom Normal-Telephoto 55-200mm f/4-5.6G ED AF-S VR DX Zoom-Nikkor Autofocus Lens
$175.00
Final SubTotal: $636.00
3-day UPS Shipping: $14.99
Grand Total: $650.99
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Posts: 185
Location: Mendota Heights, MN | lambeau,
now you just have to head up to vermilion this november with me to take some pics of the big fatties I am gonna tag!
Grats on your purchase, nice deal!
Steve | |
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| i'll be taking pictures on Vermilion with it in...9 days!
i talked to them this morning to confirm my order and they added a 400 image error-free memory card and a longer lasting rechargeable battery both at 50% off with the purchase of the camera.
i asked if they'd throw in a camera bag and they did so for free since it was my first time ordering from them, big enough to hold the camera, both lenses, and accessories.
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Posts: 185
Location: Mendota Heights, MN | One thing you might want to consider. I bought an 8 gig HIGH SPEED memory card with mine and it was well worth it.
Steve | |
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| as i understand it:
the error-free cards permit fast writing to the card from the camera, less time in the buffer when taking multiple shots.
the high-speed cards also permit fast writing from the card to your computer.
is that right?
since i'm not real worried about download times to my computer, i went with the error-free card and took a pass on the high-speed card.
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Posts: 1316
Location: Madison, WI | nice price on a back up card
http://www.supermediastore.com/pqi-sdhc-4gb-secure-digital-high-cap...
use code:MES20P
to bring it down to under $10
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Posts: 335
Location: Minnesota | I notice a difference in write speeds from my camera to the memory card when I use a high speed card.
Now you need some sort of polarized filter - circular polarizer or neutral density since you are on the water a lot and will be dealing with lots of glare and sky for backgrounds.
You also should get a pelican waterproof case big enough for all of your equipment or some other waterproof hard case.
Congrats - I never imagined that DSLR's would be that affordable. I bought mine 5 years ago now and would recomend one to anyone who likes to take pictures. | |
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Posts: 185
Location: Mendota Heights, MN | I was under the impression that the high speed cards write faster to the card from the camera.
Polarized filter is a must too on the water.
Steve
Edited by Phoenix 10/7/2008 7:10 AM
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Posts: 103
Location: Illinoise | I would suggest to anyone buying a digital camera online to research the on-line company you are buying from. There are a lot of scams out there. Doing a google search before you buy may save you a lot of headaches down the road. | |
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| i got my new camera in the mail on Thursday, everything there just as advertised which made me plenty happy.
i'm a bit overwhelmed at this point, there are a LOT of different buttons and functions on the camera. learning what they do and how/when to use them is going to take some time, but i guess that's the point and part of the fun, right? i'm considering taking a photography class at the local tech the next time it's offered.
i got to break it in last night out on the lake, and already made my first "mistake" in that i forgot to turn on the VR on the lens when shooting in low-light conditions! this is pretty evident in the second picture, and i'm sure if i was smarter about settings for exposure times and shutter speeds and whatnot i could have cleaned it up...fun!
today we ran over to Mirror Lake State Park for some hiking and fall colors.
practice practice practice...
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