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Posts: 229
| im thinking of getting some quick set rigs this year to try out and im having a hard time decinding which brand to get.....any ideas on which ones are a good choice to buy????
Thanks,
Ajohnson
Edited by Ajohnson 3/17/2008 5:23 PM
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Posts: 2427
Location: Ft. Wayne Indiana | Go with the Hulcano Harness by Stealth Tackle. They are the best out there!!!  Super easy to rig, highly effective and no extra hardwear hanging around.
http://www.stealthtackle.net/fishing_products.shtml
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Posts: 16632
Location: The desert | Make your own, saves you a little money and fun to do. Go check out how to rig up a Howie Rig. http://muskie.outdoorsfirst.com/board/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=40... It is very similar to Hulbert's rig, but a little different. |
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Posts: 3864
| I also make my own, but that dang Stealth Tackle dude keeps popping up as providing excellent products. (Which is sort of a bummer since he took away some of my on-the-side biz of selling flouro leaders!) He must be doing a lot of things right. Dang.
Rgardless of the rig you purchase, I think I came up with a killer presentation. Check this out.....
Ok, first I have a dedicated sucker rod. It's a 7' Fenwick TechnaAV (AVC70MHMC) with a Ambassadeur 6500C4 loaded with 80# PowerPro. The C4 has the "Baitclicker" feature. The rod is in a DownEaster holder sticking out perpendicular to the boat. The sucker hangs down as I move along weedlines, casting to both the shallow of deep sides of the boat. Ok, we'll go from the rod tip to the sucker.....
The line hangs straight down to the leader/rig. The line is tied to a Strigease snap which is snapped to the "top eye" of a heavy swivel. The "bottom eye" of the swivel has two things attached to it. First, there's a rubberband that holds a bell sinker, the purpose of the weight of that sinker is to ensure the line hangs STRAIGHT down from the rod tip. The rubber band allows me to change weights as conditions warrant, I want the lightest possible to make the line hang straight down. The faster my boat is moving, mostly due to wind conditions, the heavier the sinker. That "botton eye" of the swivel also holds the rig. The rig is made of 60# Sevenstrand, double crimped to that eye. There's about 5' of Sevenstrand from the swivel to a single hook that is hooked through the top and front of the sucker's mouth. 1' in front of the sucker is a dime sized chartruese blade held by a clevis. The clevis is held in place by a red bead and then a crimp. Now to the hooks.....I don't hook both lips, just thru the top, with a single hook. That single hook is a beast, a short-shanked shark hook I order from shops in Florida. The hook is held very tightly against the Sevenstrand by a double shrink rap, and I place two 1/4"X1/4" pieces of bike innertube on either side of the sucker's lip. The Seventrand "tag" hold two more hooks, both are short shank 2/0 Mustad round bends that are hooked first on the bottom of the sucker near the front lower "fin" and the second is hooked just in front of the tail on the top. Both trebles are as sharp as I can make them and I use pliars to smash one barb down a bit to minimize trauma to the sucker. I'm very careful to not damage the sucker's spine with that rear treble. That $6.00 sucker has to swim for a while.
So, in summary, the rod is straight out from the boat, the line is straight down from the rod tip, and the sucker is on a 5' wire leader that, as I move along, is at a 90* angle from the swivel/sinker. The small colorado blade slowly spins around in front the the sucker. The sucker swims from side to side, left right left right, a pattern maybe 3' wide as I drift along. A perfect setup has the sucker swimming along, snake-like, with minimal trauma, back near the stern of the boat. I'm casting all the time both to the break on one side of the boat and and to the deep water on the other side of the boat. I watch the sucker all the time, and often gently lift it up toward the surface if it's about to run into some weeds. (Getting your sucker tangled in weeds is downtime. Downtime sucks, avoid it.)
The C4 has a"baitclicker". Once my sucker is running right, I engage the baitclicker and press the spool button to "freespool." If a fish grabs the sucker it can run until I'm ready to lift the rod, reel down tight and set the hook like I'm Virgil Ward trying to cross the eyes of a 15# bass. But note!!!... A musky will often smack the $hit out the sucker, let go it and then come back again to really grab it and run. That's why you gotta watch the sucker all the time. And like pike on a tip-up, don't set the hook until after the strike and until the fish is really moving away with the sucker.
I once had two upper 30"s muskies nosing a 16" sucker in an ultra-clear lake. They followed along for 30 yards or so before they both ghosted away; neither hit the bait. The sucker died of heart failure. Another time, same lake, a nice musky came from out of nowhere, WHAM!!! and tore the 16" sucker in half with its first strike. I was looking down at a 16" sucker that was now in two pieces, when the musky again flashed in and grabbed the top half of the sucker. I was blown away by the fury, and missed the second strike.
So, in conclusion, I drag suckers while I cast structure. Either follows or non-follows can hit the sucker. |
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Posts: 370
Location: On the River | I make my own I solder the safety pins on the treble and have 2 sets of trebles one up high on the suckers back the other low on the opposite side. use Tyger I catch alot of muskies on this set up. They are easy and inexpensive to make why pay $7.00 or $8.00 for one. Save your money to buy more baits. |
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Posts: 3864
| wisrivedude - is a Tyger a rubber sucker-looking bait? I don't understand (and am comfortable knowing that I don't know what I don't know.) Could you please clarify?
I use expensive big suckers when I want to increase my odds of boating a fish. Like in M1 Matchfishing. I don't do the deep water technique, slowly drifting along, like many who know how to do that.
I recently read an article about master WI guys who actually distance cast out big suckers on quick strike rig. It smashes the water then they bring it back toward the boatr fast. They immediatly stop reeling at the first strike, and wait for the fish to come back and grab it a second time. Only after the 'ski grabs and runs do they set the hooks.
Anyway, rat, will you please explain further???
Thankx. |
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Posts: 2323
Location: Stevens Point, WI | Another vote for the Howie rig! That video Pointpride linked to is a great instructional video. |
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Posts: 223
Location: Minn. | I think the Tyger Wisriverrat was talking about is the knotable wire leader material. |
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Posts: 676
Location: Wisconsin | I use Fox International traces.....small very sharp hooks hold tight and break free nice and easy.....
http://www.foxint.com/catalogues-products.php?lang=e&product=834&ca...
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Posts: 16632
Location: The desert | muskyfvr - 3/17/2008 9:08 PM
I think the Tyger Wisriverrat was talking about is the knotable wire leader material.
Ranger,
Muskyfvr is correct. Its pretty cool stuff, although it gets a bit pricey so got to be carefull when you tie so you dont waste any. |
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Posts: 3864
| Thank-Q.
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Posts: 370
Location: On the River | Ranger
MuskieFVR is correct Tyger is a nylon coated micro-braided stainless steel leader that can be tied. This stuff is very easy to work with, it was recommended to be several years ago by a friend of mine who works at Rollie & Helens, he told me quite a few of the guides in the Minocqua area use this material and have had great sucess with it. After tieing a knot I will put a drop of fishermans glue on the knot. Before using this material I used seven strand wire and had to crimp all my connections. Another plus is that it's very easy to tell if your leader needs to be replaced, if the coating is all scraped up I replace it. I have caught muskies up tp 51.5 inches on this rig and usually 30 plus fish a year on this type of rig. As far as the cost Rollie & Helens has it in 10 ft packs for between $9.59- &16.99 depending on what test you are looking for. They also have another product which is very similar called Cortlnd Toothy Critter which is less expensive $7.99- $8.99 depending on pound test. If you want to try some Tyger I have recieved many sample packs from a friend of my, PM me with your address and I will send you some to try. I don't represent this company in any way.
I never cast suckers, just drift fish with them.
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Posts: 185
Location: Pound, WI | The Rottiers up in Niagara, WI (makers of Shadowtail bucktails) make a really nice quick strike rig.
Brian |
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