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Posts: 1636
| I was thinking about buying an 18 ft G3 tiller aluminum (bare bones) and doing the flooring up myself. Anyone ever do this and do you end up saving all that much after all the materials needed, and buying a motor? Thanks |
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Posts: 7090
Location: Northwest Chicago Burbs | Yes, and it's not expensive. Just takes a while. The motor is where the main expense on all boats really is. |
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| i would think you could save some money but the fit/finish might be up to par of what you can buy from the dealer.. i'd just bite the bullet and spend the coin .... |
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Posts: 1636
| After doing some research it seems like it would cost about the same...that is if you went all brand new.
Edited by Reelwise 9/26/2007 3:28 PM
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Posts: 7090
Location: Northwest Chicago Burbs | There has got to be an all-ready floored 2-3 year old 16-17fter with a 40-50hp Merc out there for $8-9K, right? |
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Posts: 13688
Location: minocqua, wi. | or maybe you'll get lucky and find an all-ready floored 2-3 year old 16-17fter witha 40-50hp Yamaha on it for $8-9k, right? |
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Posts: 1636
| I use to do carpentry, so I figured this could be a fun project and I could save a little cash. If I'm going to spend 10 grand I would rather buy something like the boat I posted. Remember, we all like what we like and have our own opinions too. |
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Posts: 7090
Location: Northwest Chicago Burbs | Reelwise - 9/26/2007 3:38 PM
I use to do carpentry, so I figured this could be a fun project and I could save a little cash. If I'm going to spend 10 grand I would rather buy something like the boat I posted. Remember, we all like what we like and have our own opinions too.
Yes, it can be done. Search the archives, a number of members have shown off their efforts onsite. |
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| Mike Moschell (mikie) has an article in a recent issue of Muskies Inc magazine about refurbishing an aluminum bass boat. i bet if you drop him a line he'll email you a copy of it.
like Slamr said, also check the archives here. lots of good tips, pictures, etc.
another good resource is the website: http://www.bassboatcentral.com/
their forums cover just about everything boat-related, and they've got one dedicated to boat restoration topics.
i've thought about buying a small jonboat and doing this myself for the fun of it.
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Posts: 3508
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Hi everyone,
One major set-back in the whole process of doing a boat up yourself...The capacity plate on the rig itself. When boats are manufactured by a company, they have the boat tested for submersion and HP rating. All boats that go through the NMEA (not sure if I got all the letters correct) certification, they must float level when swamped, and follow hp ratings based on the coast guard specifications. Most manufacturers are a bit conservative on their hp ratings so they stay safe from that one bone-headed guy who thinks he can handle a maxed out rig.
So...where am I going with this as you consider building your boat? Consider that the more you add to the boat, the more weight capacity you use up, the more the boat will weigh, and the less efficient the boat will become. For example...take a typical bare-bones 16 foot boat: It probably will have a HP rating no more than 40hp unless it has wider gunnels. so...now put your floor in (got to be heavy enough so it is stable). Then, add the glue and the carpet, rod locker, a front deck, battery storage, a bow platform for the trolling motor, etc. Very quickly you will have a rig that is going to plow with the motor maxed out...especially if you have a partner or two.
I have done this as well...I put in floors and a front deck and platform on a 14 foot alumacraft V14. I had a 25hp motor on that thing and it did O.K... I was able to change trim settings on the motor and that helped, but it does limit the capabilities of the boat in terms of what you can carry.
Steve |
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Posts: 1462
Location: Davenport, IA | I added 34" to the front deck of my alumacraft bass boat. The carpet matched perfectly and it allowed me storage of all my muskie and bass lures. I also just did a deck extension on my Javelin. It was only 16" though. One weekend was all it took. |
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Posts: 46
Location: Milwaukee,Wi | Reelwise,
I have made a few boat's from wood, and made some repair's to an older Tuffy. Wood is a great boat building material but it has some issues that need to be dealt with. One being strength to weight ratio and another being durability. Don't just screw down a piece of 3/4" marine ply and call it a floor. Too heavy and it will rot. Instead, use a piece of 3/8" and cover both sides with 6oz. fiberglass cloth and resin. This will be lighter and stronger than the 3/4", and last longer.If you have any other question's feel free to P.M. me and I can hook you up with some relative info.
Douglas |
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Location: Athens, Ohio | http://muskie.outdoorsfirst.com/board/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=32...
Thanks, Mike, for the 'plug', a lot of the basics on my article are at the link, above.
If you all have any specific questions, give me a PM shout. I put around $600 into my rebuild, that included new seat pedestals and mounts. The stainless steel hardware is where it gets costly, be sure you know what size screws you need before you have to run back to the store like I did and get the next size up for $20! The marine carpet and glue ran up the tab a bit, too.
I also made JB Weld my friend and globbed it all over the rivet heads, mine is a 1978 BassTracker so it needed a bit more help than yous might. m
Edited by mikie 9/27/2007 6:40 AM
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Posts: 82
Location: Cottage Grove, Mn | Reel,
Take a look here..............
http://www.correllconcepts.com/boat_conversion.htm
Also look at toothycritters .com. Tom has a section about comverting boats.
Edited by greybeard 9/29/2007 6:30 PM
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Posts: 1636
| sweet article mikie.
thats pretty cool what the guy did with the lund too. |
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Doing your own boat