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Posts: 25
Location: MACHESNEY PARK IL | I WENT OUT THIS MORNING WITH A NEW LURE I JUST MADE .I RAISED A COUPLE MUSKIES .AFTER FISHING FOR THE DAY I NOTICED THIS NEW LURE I JUST MADE WAS CRACKED IN A COUPLE SPOTS BOY WAS I ANGRY THIS HAS HAPPEN TO A FEW OF MY LURES. THIS IS WHAT I DO I SHAPE THE LURE THE WAY I WANT IT ,SAND IT SMOOTH ,PRIME IT WITH ZINSSER B.I.N. PRIMER THEN I LIGHTLY SAND IT SMOOTH .THEN I PAINT IT WITH ACRYLIC PAINT TO YHE PATTERN I WANT THEN I USE CRYSTAL SHEEN AS MY TOP COAT AT LEASE THREE COATS SANDING BETWEEN EACH COAT .WHEN CASTING THE LURE AND WHEN IT HITS THE WATER IS MAKING THE LURE CRACK OR IS IT THE EXPANDTION OR CONTRACTION OF THE WOOD IN THIS HOT WEATHER. WHAT AM I DING WRONG I NEED YOUR HELP ,MY LURES LOOK REALLY GOOD THERE HAS TO BE AWAY TO KEEP THIS FROM HAPPENING WOLF |
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Posts: 941
Location: Freedom, WI | It sounds like water got under the epoxy and the wood expanded and blew the epoxy off. I would use a sealer before priming also. All products have to be compatable also water based and oil based do not mix well and all coats should be dry. There has been lots of good posts on sealing and painting on this board. The one called mega sealing (I think that was the heading) is a good one on sealing. I changed the way I do things because of that one. I use the thinned epoxy for sealing now, it has fumes to deal with but really seals and bonds the wood together. There are lots of reasons for epoxy to come off and is hard to figure out why, chemicals reacting and water getting into the wood most common. |
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Posts: 786
Location: Minnesota | Seal seal seal and make sure you wood is good and dry. A good clear coat is a must of course as well... Can you post a picture or two of the baits? That might help too. |
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Posts: 1504
Location: Oregon | Judging by your process I would say you shouldn't have had any problems. How are you installing the screw eyes?
jed v. |
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Posts: 179
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan | Can you tell where the peeling started. The problem sounds like what has been said, "water expanding the wood and cracking the epoxy." That is probably what the issue is. Look for the obvious places, around the screw eyes or the lip if they are crankbaits. Also, I have had bad results with shellac, try another type of sealer.
Rod |
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| You could have issues with the products that you are using not be compatable.
I used Zinser Coverstain once, and every lure that I painted split because the Zinser product was lifted right out of the wood as the reducer in the paint dried. You wind up with anegg shell anchored by srew eyes. If the wood under the cracked portion is bare wood and not white, you are having the same issues.
Please, lose the CAPS LOCK. |
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Posts: 132
| Grunt is right. It's all about the sealer. I use the same epoxy that I use to topcoat, but thinned with xylene 6:1. It gets the epoxy like water and it soaks right in. THEN, put Cover Stain over that and paint whatever you want. Predrill your screw eyes. Before you put the screw eyes in, use a tooth pick and put epoxy in the holes. Top coating certainly helps, but a well sealed bait is the key. I have prototypes all the time that I seal and just put coverstain on them. No paint, no topcoat. Nothing ever happens to them. Its all about the sealer. |
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| I had the same problem and I fidgured it was from water. Question, I tank test my stuff befor, durring, and after adding the weight. I know this is how my water got into the last two baits. Once it gets in there...............how do you get it out? I have thought about putting it in the oven at about 180deg. letting it cook for about 20 min. then apply a thinned epoxy..........as the bait cools I think it would draw the epoxy deeper into the wood. Will baking the bait get out the water or just mess with my poly lips? Any other ideas about getting out the water????? |
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Posts: 929
Location: Rhinelander. | I had this problem at one tim when I made baits. Especially happens to baits that lead is added to. Are you putting lead into them? If so is it hot lead or cold? Seal is is right. I soaked all my bails in a a wood sealer for 24 hours after all holes were drilled in them. Them have to be sure they are dry befor the primer is applied. What type of wood do you use? Lot of solutions pending on those questions.
Pfeiff |
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| Hot lead, Test, Hot Lead, Test, Drill Out, Test, Like, Fill Holes, Smooth Out, Ect.. So I think all of the testing with the open holes is killing me but I need to do it in order to get some of my baits to hang right in the water column. As for wood, 90% of the stuff I use is Mahogany, I have a source for free 2.5" thick by ??" scrap stock (I know "lucky bastard"). The other 5% Bass, 5% pine. So I think the big thing on my end is getting the water out after it gets in there? Another question it in concers to foiling one of my baits got HUGE blisters in between the foil and the wood "water?". I and thinking from now on I am going to get away from the tape and use regular foil an 75% set up epoxy? Has anyone tried this? |
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Posts: 941
Location: Freedom, WI | If you seal the wood before putting in water it will help by not letting the water in.
It will also give you a better test when floating as it will not soak up water and weight the wood more. |
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PEELING AND CRACKING LURES