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Posts: 227
Location: New Brighton, MN | I'm rebuilding the front floor my old lund... Mostly cuz the floor had a rotten spot. I tore out the plywood and carpet - (man these things are built solid!!!) Anyhow, my plan is to put a new elevated floor in, with storage compartments underneath, (for anchor, tacke, lifejackets) and a place for my battery to rest in the bow for the trolling motor. My question is, will regular 3/4" Plywood work for this? It's an old boat (1982), so I don't need the floor to last 20 years, and I don't want to invest $200 on just wood. Should I water seal the plywood?
Storage - Basspro and Cabelas sell pre-made aluminum lids, but they're like $70. I'll likely put 3-4 in. Does anyone have experience making these from piano hinges and plywood?
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Posts: 1764
Location: Ogden, Ut | I just finished replacing most of the front deck of my Lund yesterday. The old plywood was 19/32" so I just used the same thickness (I used regular old plywood and water sealed it). I don't believe that strength was an issue on mine since almost all of it is supported by aluminum anyway. 3/4" would have definately been overkill on mine. The existing (factory) storage doors on mine are made of plywood/piano hinges, so that really shouldn't be a problem. The doors are reinforced w/ an additional sheet of what appears to be about 1/4 - 3/8" plywood on the underside as they are not fully supported by aluminum (obviously). Interestingly, the doors were the only part of the floor that didn't need replacement.
S. |
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| You should use 3/4 green treated plywood |
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Water seal like Thompsons or even a green treated plywood will not last the years you may want. I needed to repace a deck and floor in my tuffy 2 years ago and found that a polyester resin, bought at home depot, along with fiberglass mating was the ticket to doing this job right.
The Thompson's will last a year or two and the treated plywood about the same. But my buddy that used to fiberglass for a living told me that resin was good for a minimum of 10 years.
A little more work but a much better job.
Ubuck  |
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Posts: 227
Location: New Brighton, MN | Thanks for the info...
What was the resin called? What was the cost? of the resin/fiberglass?
The area i'm working on is aprox 65"X48. I'd be surprised if the boat lasts another 10 years, so it may be overkill.
Treated plywood contains extremely harsh chemicals that literally eat aluminum. It's not a good option unless your hull is fiberglass. |
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Location: Athens, Ohio | http://muskie.outdoorsfirst.com/board/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=32...
Maybe this will help you. I was told by a reputable boat shop not to use any kind of sealer or resin on the wood. Use pressure treated plywood, the glue will stand up to marine conditions. You want any moisture that gets to the wood to eitehr soak thru or evaporate as your boat dries, sealers will retard the drying. Note the photo where I made my own hatch and enclosed a Rubbermaid tub for dry storage. Perko hinges completed the job, I used aluminum U channel around the edges to stiffen it up a bit. Cabelas also sells pre-made hatches and bins, they are costly. PM me if you need any help, and BTW, always use stainless steel bolts, screws, deck screws. m |
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Posts: 1120
Location: West Chester, OH | Unless you're determined to do the job yourself, call Owen Tumberg @ The Boat Works, in New York Mills, MN.
Had a new floor & deck w/hatch installed in my old Lund 10 years ago. Quality work & VERY reasonably priced - even after the drive from OH. |
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I couldn't tell you what the name of the resin was but it was the only brand that home depot carried.
I did a major repair job on my Tuffy and the place that I turned to most for advise was www.capndsboatshed.com. I discovered this site doing a google search and found all kinds of information to repair my fiberglass and floor problems in my boat. The site itself is informative but for around $25.00 I bought his "how to" book and found that the majority of my questions were answered there. I also emailed him questions and even spoke to him on the phone and he took the time to walk me through much of the repair I was doing.
For $25.00 I learned a lot and also saved mega bucks doing the job myself.
Check em out, I think you'll find him helpful.
Ubuck |
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| Mikie
Nice repair job on the boat and the rubbermaid adds a little character!!
How long from start to finish was the project??
Ubuck |
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Location: Athens, Ohio | Well, first of all I have to give props to Tom at The Boat Shop in Marietta and to BassBoatCentral's boat restoration section! I started in mid-January and worked evenings and weekends for about 6 weeks. Me wife likes to watch her Soaps from 7-8 each night, plenty reason to crank up the cd player & heater in the garage and get 'er dun! Thanks for the compliment. I did hire out the carpet laying, he knew how to hide my boo-boos. We tried it out a couple weekends ago, it fishes great!
It was difficult to find a plastic tub that was 8 inches high or less, and I wasn't about to pay Cabelas prices for the pro models! I cut out a hole in the tub lid under the deck seat and installed a foam sided cooler, worked out just fine. A little hillbilly imagination goes a long way sometimes. m |
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Posts: 227
Location: New Brighton, MN | What about recessed hatch handles? Something that won't rattle or rust? Does anyone know where to find good handles at a decent price?
What about Stainless steel or aluminum hinges?
All I can find are nickel plated continuous hinges (piano hinges) at menards, but they would probably rust after a season or two.
any ideas?
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Location: Athens, Ohio | http://www.boatersworld.com/hardware-.htm?bct=t13046503%3Bcimainten...
Go shoppin! m |
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rebuilding boat floor - hatches