|
|
Posts: 4
Location: Davenport, IA / Watersmeet, MI | I watch a lot of fishing shows on TV, and a lot of them stress the importance of bouncing off the bottom, skipping off rocks, hitting weeds, and making contact with structure to trigger fish into biting (especially with crank baits). I see the guys on TV doing this without problems, but when I do it I get snagged, hung up, or bring in weeds every cast. Does anyone have some advice on how to make contact with structure and not get hung up?
One of the shows said that flat lipped crank bates have a lesser chance of getting hung up on timber, but if there is anything else that might help me with this all too familiar problem?
Also, a lot of the shows that talk about making contact with structure aren't focused on muskies. So, is this issue important in muskie fishing as well?
Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!
- Chris | |
| | |
Posts: 814
| Here are a few things to try that help me out.
Use a rod with a good Tip so you can SNAP the weeds of when hung up
Use bouyant lures that BACKUP when paused...here are a few good ones
To me neutral bouyant and sinking lures do not seem to work as well for this.
Bobbie Baits, Unweighted Suicks
Jakes
Depthraiders
Cranes
just to name a few.
Edited by mskyhntr 2/25/2007 11:42 PM
| |
| | |
| Trolling rocks, Depthraiders, Ernies, Jakes, Beleivers, Plows, Perchbaits, Frankies, Harbour Masters and Hookers can bang all day long are don't hang up often, Beleivers are one of the best I've for both rocks and weeds, it's amazing what they'll come through. | |
| | |
Posts: 1438
| Reel with your rod tip high, about 10 or 11 o'clock. When you feel contact with weeds, rocks etc drop you rod tip. It'll instantly give some slack and allow your bait to BACKUP like mskyhntr said.
Also, it's a little easier if you use a slower retrieve. If you are fast retrieving, your reflexes need to be a bit quicker to avoid hanging up.
Scott
Edited by theedz155 2/26/2007 5:53 AM
| |
| | |
Posts: 3240
Location: Racine, Wi | theedz155 - 2/26/2007 5:52 AM
When you feel contact with weeds, rocks etc drop you rod tip.
Also, it's a little easier if you use a slower retrieve. If you are fast retrieving, your reflexes need to be a bit quicker to avoid hanging up.
Theedz hit this right on the head. If you use a slower retrieve (at least until you know how the structure is set up) you can feel where everything is. This way you have time to react (in this case stop and rip a weed, or back out of a rock/tree etc.) Once you have a feel you'll be able to cover those areas thoroughly.
You also have to understand what you are feeling. So when you crank your bait into the cover, what does it feel like when it first makes contact. Then you adjust your retieve. There are times when this will be the difference between getting bit or bringing back a bait covered in junk. | |
| | |
Posts: 720
| Hi
I totally agree with Joel on this one. Knowing what your feeling is a big part of structure fishing. For instance bouncing a rocky bottom you know that if you slow down your speed your lure is going to rise. Adjusting the retrieve speed will keep you out of the rocks and just above the fish. If you're feeling an occasional tick than you know you are doing it just right. Like Joel said its a feel for what you are doing do there.
Dave | |
| | |
Location: Athens, Ohio | I tried out some new muskie crankbaits for Gene Richardson just before Christmas on a lake with submerged stumps. His baits have a real good 'reverse' gear, and I could crash timber with them like the bass pros do. Get this dang ice off my lakes and maybe I can get fish with this technique! m | |
| | |
Posts: 3862
| Joe Bucher's book "Crankbait Secrets" has some good stuff on trolling. Another guy, Brian Long, has a chapter on his approach to trolling in the book "Musky Mastery - Techniques of Top Guides". | |
| | |
Posts: 2687
Location: Hayward, WI | Some good answers so far. Another thing is to be very familiar how a certain lure runs. Know how deep it runs, and how it is supposed to feel. You don't want to try ticking weed tops at 2 feet with a depth Raider (unless you are really crawling the bait). Having a light touch helps. You also need to maneuver differnet types of baits differently when they contact weeds, wood, etc. Snapping when your bucktail hits weeds would work better than when a crankbait does, etc.
Another very important thing to remember. How many casts do you actually SEE the guys on tv make? They are most likely cutting out a lot of fouled casts, and just showing you a dozen or so good ones. Lots of times no matter what you do, in some situations using certain techniques, the majority of your casts won't come back clean.
curleytail | |
| |
|
Making Contact With Structure