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| OK, I know this is easy....for you guys.
I decided to weight some Suicks and a couple of other wood pull baits and a couple of minnow baits.
I didn't like the way that they popped up to the surface really fast. It was like a race trying to keep up some times.
So, I found the point of balance on the lures and added an egg sinker in the minnow baits right there, and on the pull baits I added weight just in front of the balance point.
I know that it is easy to mix up some Devcon 2-Ton epoxy and fill the holes, so I did. These are all flat bottomed lures.
I'm wondering though, I have some round bottomed lures that I'm going to add weight to, so just putting epoxy in the hole isn't an option because it will run out the side. I figured I would fill it part way with epoxy, and then use some industrial strength wood filler that I have to overfill it and then round it off with a file and sandpaper.
My question....even with the flat lures, I used soft lead egg sinkers, and the pounded them flat to set them in the hole. I imagine that some of the lead made it's way into the wood grain when I pounded the lead down. Do you really need epoxy to hold the sinkers in the holes if you are going to fill it with industrial wood filler anyway? After I pounded a couple in place, I tried to loosen them by pounding the lure, and couldn't break them loose. I watch this forum, and you guys amaze me, that is partly why I decided to try to weight some lures myself. Is adding epoxy overkill if you pound the lead flat? Also, using 2-part epoxy seems to be a good way to secure weights in lures with flat bellies. What do you use so that you aren't constantly mixing batches of epoxy and hurrying to use it before it starts to set. Even searching the internet, I only found stuff with a max life of 20-30 minutes once it is mixed. You can't fill many holes in that short amount of time. What is the best to use for long working time?
And last, once the weights are in and the filler is hard and sanded, should I brush over some epoxy before I paint it or after or both?
Lots of words for what I'm sure is a simple answer.
Thank you | |
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Posts: 107
Location: Mayer, MN | I usually use "Plastic Wood" from any hardware store. It works well, sets up fast but not to fast 30min or so, it is very easy to sand and shape. When I use it I cover it with Enviro Tex. | |
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Posts: 190
| You can use 2 ton on curved baits. Fill hole with epoxy then cover with clear packing tape . This will conform to the body while making the epoxy take the same shape and keeping it from running out. When it is cured remove tape, sand and paint.........Good Luck.........Doug Bradley | |
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Posts: 190
| You can use 2 ton on curved baits. Fill hole with epoxy then cover with clear packing tape . This will conform to the body while making the epoxy take the same shape and keeping it from running out. When it is cured remove tape, sand and paint.........Good Luck.........Doug Bradley | |
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Posts: 1106
Location: Muskegon Michigan | I melt my lead and pour it. I cover with a mix of sawdust and epoxy. Use fast setting epoxy and a thin cardboard square as a squeegee. The squeegee makes such a smooth surface that sanding in usually not nessecary. Once it starts to harden dont touch it or it will string. Kingfisher | |
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| Are you using the 5 minute epoxy to do that KingFisher? I tried that method at one time but got sick of mixing the epoxy!!! !
RM | |
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Filling after putting lead in