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| Hey guys, I been looking for something to put on my wood baits before i use my Primer/Sealer to make sure they are impenetrable. I've heard some people use boiled linseed oil but i'm afraid this might not be compatible with my primer/sealer. Would a polyurethene work or maybe even a stain of some kind to dip into before I put on my sealer/primer. Looking for something cheap here as I don't make many baits and don't want them to crack all up when they do eventually get a minor crack..
thanks,
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Posts: 1530
| try a lacquer sanding sealer. it soaks in and can be painted over with any paint.. also dries in 1 hour. its quicker then the linseed oil. |
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Posts: 280
Location: Pewaukee WI | I've heard that some guys who make bass plugs use boiled linseed oil so it probly works |
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| Boiled linseed oil works great |
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Posts: 4266
| Take it from someone who learned the hard way, do one or two as a trial, and make sure that everything is compatable.
I've used sanding sealer and a primer with success. Then I tried a sanding sealer before a primer/sealer, and the primer/sealer couldn't penetrate and it wound up not adhereing to the lure properly. It was a mess.
Now I'm using a primer/sealer only, with light sanding between dips, and when the second coat dries it's like painting on an eggshell.
Whatever you choose to do, make a couple of trial runs so you aren't sorry down the line.
I've learned a lot by calling the manufacturers of each product that I use. They will tell you what will work well with their product and what won't.
Beav
PS- When you get those minor cracks that all lures get, cover them with some clear fingernail polish right away and you can usually stop them from becoming bigger.
Edited by Beaver 10/12/2006 8:47 AM
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| Thanks Beav and others, great help. Do you think the same thing would happen w/ the boiled linseed oil if you added a primer/sealer over the top? |
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Posts: 358
Location: London, England | It's a bit messy, but superglue is a fantastic sealer. It soaks into the wood and makes it as tough as iron. |
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Posts: 29
| I've been building plugs and sealing them with a mixture of Boiled linseed Oil & Mineral spirits. Seems to be what most of the Guys who build Striper plugs on the East Coast use as well. The only thing I don't like about it is you have to wait a few days and sometimes a Week for the Stuff to dry. |
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Posts: 480
| I use a product called japan dryer from cleanstrip to mix in with the linseed oil so it dries quicker. |
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| Epoxy like Flex-Coat high-build thinned with Xylene. Use about a 6:1 ratio, but it doesnt have to be exact. You want it a little watery so the wood sucks it right in. We have been selling baits for nine years now and tried everything at the start. This epoxy system works and accepts all kinds of paint without a problem. |
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| Hey, Do you mean 6 of the flexcoat to the 1 of the xylene. Or the other way around. thanks for the help guys. |
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| Yes, 6 parts Epoxy. Dont get carried away trying to measure it. Mix up the epoxy really well in a cup then add a little Xylene on the surface and mix it up. It should get to a point where it's like water. When you put it on the wood it should get dark like its wet. Then within 24 hrs hit the baits with a white primer. I like Zinsser Cover Stain. If you are adding screw eyes later, pre drill the holes and work some epoxy into the hole with a tooth pick before you turn in the eye.
If you dont have Flex-Coat, get some Devcon 2-Ton (not the 5 min stuff). Devcon is really good stuff and won't yellow. Wal-Mart paint department, $1.99.
Both are good top-coats after you are done painting. I prefer the Flex-coat though.
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| I used Zinser Cover Stain on 25 maple lures, and after it dried I used acrylic laquer over it, then 2 coats of Envirotex and every lure cracked and peeled apart. When the paint dried, it sucked the Cover Stain right out of the wood. I sent 3 of the lures to the paint manufacturer, and they came up with that conclusion. The people at Zinser said, "That product is not meant for that application or any application where the wood will be submerged, even for short periods of time." The pait adhered to the Envirotex and when you peeled it off, there was bare wood underneath, meaning that the primer was pulled out when the reducer in the paint dried or it never penetrated in the first place. They figured it was the first scenario. I know guys that use water based paint and like Cover Stain, but if you are using Acrylic Laquers or Enamels....be careful. Now I use polystyrene for everything. Best primer/sealer I've ever used. |
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| The Cover Stain works, but it goes over the Flex-Coat sealer. In fact, the best is when I can put on the thinned epoxy sealer in the evening and then hit the baits with Cover-Stain the next morning while the sealer is still just a little bit tacky. For me the Cover Stain is a white base for the paint and not a sealer. What is the polystyrene product that you are using? Thanks. |
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Posts: 169
| Is this what you mean by ploystyrene sealant?
http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5203
I was going to try it this summer, but never got around to it. |
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| Polystrene is a primer sealer that is such a good sealer that we used to use it to keep pipes from sweating in the water plant that I used to work in. It was the only thing that we could find to prime pipes so we could color code them.
I use the stuff made by Sherwin Williams, but I'm sure that other people make it. Get ready for some sticker shock.
I believe SW calls it Barrier Coat. You can dip it or spray it through your air brush if you want. I give all of my lure a double dip with a light sanding of rough spots in between because it will cause the grain to pop out a little depending on the wood that you use, and then it's like painting on an eggshell.
It's not cheap, but neither are quality lures. |
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| The plastic dip works awsome on wood baits! I have been using it and have been very happy with the results that I have had. It sands smooth and paints really nice as well. |
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| What is plastic dip? |
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Posts: 169
| From my link, a couple of post up. |
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| Thanks Brad. Has this method stood the test of time. I know a few things I've tried seemed to hold up good for awhile but then developed cracks after being fished alot...not talking impact damage but water getting in to the wood. thanks |
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| For me personally it has withstood use well. I have some baits that I fished all year with (some developing hook rash into the wood) and it has still held. I have not experienced it flaking off or cracking once it has completely dried. |
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| Thanks for your reply Nate...sounds very promising. |
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Posts: 910
Location: Hastings, mn, 55033 | rapala uses a different form of the plasti dip on their lures and they seem to hold up well. |
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| i've heard some people use Homoclad to seal there baits. Anyone know anything about this? |
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| Hey Nate,
never heard of plastic dip. What brand makes that? I've tried everything and like eperimenting with new things. What primer/sealer do you use over the top. I'll second the flex-coat, it will flex with the bait and is used primarily for rod guides, so it shouldn't crack.
Cool Thread. |
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| The plastic dip is a homemade brew. What I do is dissolve white solo cups in virgin laquer thinner. Once all the cups are dissoved (dissolve as many as you want untill you reach your desired consistency--I usually go for a watery paint consistency) you then dip your baits in, let them dry, repeat, repeat, etc. till you have a desireable base. I usually get to about 4 coats or so with some sanding after the first and second coats. If you dip them enough times you dont even need a primer as it seals and preps your surface with a hard plastic finish. I have used krylon and rustoleom flat white paints as a base on top of the plastic and that also works. The main trick is to let each coat dry thoroughly which will result in a hard smooth finish. |
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Posts: 910
Location: Hastings, mn, 55033 | if you try the plasi dip method it is imperative you use VIRGIN lacquer thinner. regular lacquer thinner will not work. i've used it on small walleye and bass size balsa cranks, but never tried it on musky baits. |
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Posts: 236
| What is homoclad? Cool thread. Plastic dip sounds cool, how long does it take set up inbetween coats? |
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| Hey Nate,
I've never seen that, seems kinda cool. Will the solution last awhile in the jar after you make the solution or do you have to use it the same day? Also is a 2part epxoy compatible and what yo you use?
Cool thread |
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| No it will last as long as it is a closed container. I'm not chemistry whizz or anything like that but I assume the plastic breaks down (dissolves) in the thinner and as the thinner evaporates all that is left is the plastic which creates a smooth sealed finish. If you leave the container open the thinner will evaporate and you will just be left with the plastic, which if you add thinner will dissovle again. Actually if you hang your baits over a clean metal sheet to dry you can reuse any of the drips as they are essentially just plastic themselves. Hope that helps
Nate |
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| Hey Nate, In that tutorial it says to wait 24 hours to let cure before painting. If you could paint an hour after the final coat it would be great, but I'm guessing you wait overnight atleast? |
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| I personally have painted the same day, but at the time there wasnt much humidity and I had a heated area that helped dry the finish up faster. An hour may be pushing it but I have done it in a few hours (all depends on how thick of a coat of sealer you have) Best of luck
Nate |
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| Hey Nate,
When you say sealer you are refering to the Plastic brew correct? Just want to make sure. Also Do you think if you only use 2 coats that it would still keep it fariley water proof? Thanks again |
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| Yes thats what I mean. Depending upong how thick your solution is that may do it, I usually try to use a thinner solution and then more coats since it dries faster in my opinion
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Posts: 56
| Nate, after painting, what do you recommend to use as a protective coat? thanks Tim |
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Posts: 502
Location: Lincoln UK | Great ino Nate. |
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| I have used Envirotex, Devcon 2 Ton, and regular old Rustoleum Clear Laquer with success. The rustoleum is obviously not very durable but it gets the job done for testing things out. I personally prefer Envirotex. |
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| Homoclad is a mystery liquid, I tried it, don't buy it. It's spendy and all it did was stop some of the grain from raising on basswood and oak. After a lot of trial and error,two things work great. Bull's eye sanding sealer (alchohol based) quick no mess and (quick) The other was epoxy thinned with alchohol or Acetone, or lacquer thinner. thinned epoxi still has to be sanded down, unless you let it penatrate then wipe it down.
Blair from no box
Noboxlures.com |
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Posts: 50
| I use the same sealer/basecoat as Rapala & other European builders & i can tell you this that all dripoffs&cured/can be used over &over again .I have sent this stuff worldwide to fellow builders & many swears by it since you soak/dip your lures then just hang up to dry/cure ,you can dip up to 5 times /hour if temperatures is right .It can be used as a topcoat over some acrylics too |
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Posts: 119
| castmaster - 10/18/2006 2:05 PM
rapala uses a different form of the plasti dip on their lures and they seem to hold up well.
Here is a link to what Rapala uses on their lures. I use this also and it works great for sealing the lure before painting. I actually bought mine from Swede also. Very easy to use, and very fast drying. Take the time to read through both pages and get a good understanding of it. 
http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8603&highli...
Edited by Jason413 4/11/2007 6:21 PM
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| how do you know a thinner is virgin ? Local jardware stores and Home Depot carry thinner as do auto body shop suppliers. Just sure how to tell if its virgin. Thanks for all the great info. |
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Posts: 190
| Guest it will say virgin on it or it is not virgin. This vrgin thinner is a more pure and stronger thinner and you should be able to find it at Autozone and Walmart. Those are the only places I have found it and I am not surprised that a hardware store knew nothing about it because min didnt either.Good luck
Doug Bradley |
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Posts: 309
Location: canada | have to agree , prop dip is the best sealer around, thin coats, milk like thickness, first dip, let it sit for a while.let the bubbles escape from the wood, take it out, let dry, light sand after, then repeat dips, until you are satisfied with the coverage/ smoothness, then let it sit for a day , primer, your choice here, but if you can get it white laquer primer is the cats @ss to use, if you use a acrylic based primer,and only use createx paints, and heatset every coat of paint you can use it as a top coat as well, other brands like apple barrel, ceramcoat, etc will/can have bleeding /running probs if you use it as a top coat, so in that case just top coat with etex, dev, or Nu lustre(my fav) hope this helps, and if any one needs the prop pellets, get them from the prop master himself SWEDE, just as i did ,and have others, Etch |
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Posts: 1530
| etch did you use the number for the primer. i hope it worked out for you. |
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| The best sealer Ive ever used is Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES). It seals the wood perfectly. It "glues" the woodfibers together and makes the wood rockhard. The only drawback is that its very toxic, so take it easy and follow all the safety guidelines.
US-information can be found at: http://www.smithandcompany.org/
Mag / Noisey Cricket
SWEDEN
My homemade baits: www.mag.nu
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Location: rhinelander ,wi. | I'm a boatwright, meaning I restore old Chris Crafts and Garwoods and such. We seal all our wood with CPES, it will not allow the wood to rot. It is the best stuff on the market for sealing new or old wood - Period! You can find it at places like West Marine or any other wooden boat repair site. It will even seal your chewed up baits that have exposed wood.
Good luck,
Pat
Musky Mafia Tackle Com.
Edited by muskymafia 4/22/2007 12:23 PM
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| Great thread guys, some good tips and things to avoid.
I'm in Australia so we dont have all the same products you guys have available (or at least not by the same names) and I haven't been able to find CPES yet but I've used something called megaseal which seems to work pretty well.
Cheers,
Dean
http://dripdryshowers.com.au
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Mega Sealing