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Posts: 578
Location: Sheboygan Falls, WI |
Attachments
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 Basic Abu Reel Cleaning 101 For Newer Reels.doc (27KB - 1454 downloads)
Basic Facts Reel Handout for Seminars.doc (23KB - 637 downloads)
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| Basic Abu Reel Cleaning 101 For Newer Reels!!
Following is a basic step-by-step outline of breaking down; cleaning, lubing and reassembly of newer Abu Garcia bait casters with instant anti-reverse.
Before you get started, make sure you have the following tools and materials so you do not have to move until the reel is complete. Roll of paper towels, Abu Oil (my preference), Abu Grease (my preference), screwdrivers of various sizes and styles, pointed awl type tool, pliers, smaller needle nose, 18mm wrench (I believe that is the size) and a crescent wrench. Also a can of Reel Magic comes in handy sometimes. One sided razor blade and a toothbrush is also necessary.
First get your work area ready. Place a paper towel down in front of you as a workstation. Make sure that you are working in a well lit area just incase any small parts fall or go flying.
Now it is time for the actual work.
1. Remove the handle nut lock or nut cap. Both would have a small screw that goes into the handle.
2. Remove the handle nut.
3. CAREFULLY remove the C-clip that is on the top of the shaft. Without this off, the handle will not come off. WARNING: IF NOT REMOVED CAREFULLY, THE C-CLIP HAS A FLYING DISTANCE OF ¼ MILE. OKAY, SO IT CAN GO ACROSS THE ROOM, YOU GET THE POINT.
4. Remove the handle and the handle washer (thin curved metal washer between handle and drag star.
5. Remove drag star by turning back words and completely remove it. Keep all of the items removed so far together in one spot.
6. Thoroughly wipe down all parts removed so far with a paper towel and keep in one spot.
7. Loosen the three thumbscrews on the handle side plate and remove the whole plate assembly. (They will not come out of the plate)
8. Remove the spool and set aside
9. Remove the axle from the side plate if it is not out already. If it appears to be stuck tight, pull firmly with a pliers and it will come out.
10. Remove the 2 screws on the handle side plate.
11. Carefully remove the side plate and wipe ALL dirt, grease, oil, and grime from it. If necessary, spray a little Reel Magic on a paper towel and wipe the side plates off getting in all grooves on the sides. Use a paper towel to wipe out the A/R bearing that is permanently in the side plate if it looks to have excess oil/grease on it.
12. Remove the drive shaft that has the main gear on it and take the main gear off. If you have a newer reel with multiple drag washers, there should be no reason what so ever to replace the drag washers.
13. Wipe the main gear, black drag washers and the silver metal washers down well. They should not be oily or greasy when put back together.
14. Place one black washer on the shaft, then the main gear, then a black washer, then the round, silver washer, then a black washer, then a silver washer with 2 nipples, then a black washer then the top plate.
15. On top of the last washer, place the silver cylinder with the square inside down. (Look at both ends and you will see what I mean)
16. Take off the black position holder that has 2 thin metal arms.
17. Take off the pinion gear and its black holder. Pop the gear out and wipe both down well.
18. Take the clutch arm off and wipe off. This is one part that can wear. If you are having problems with the button not popping back out, this is probably the culprit. On the end that would be by the drive shaft there is a piece that sticks up. If it is showing brass and is rounded, it should be replaced. Inexpensive part.
19. Take the push button off and wipe off.
20. Take the bottom arm off and wipe off.
21. Wipe down the main plate of all oil and grease
22. Place the bottom arm back on
23. Now the push button
24. Now the clutch arm
25. Now the pinion gear and holder. Gear part up, beveled edge of holder down.
26. Place a small amount of OIL on the main post and then replace the drive shaft/main gear assembly
27. Take the grease and place a minimal amount of grease all the way around the main gear; too much is not good.
28. Replace the black position holder and make sure it snaps all the way down to the plate.
29. Place the side cover back on and put the 2 screws back in.
30. Place the 2 curved washers back on the drive shaft so they are curved towards each other and will spring.
31. Screw the star wheel back down
32. Replace the thin curved washer on the star curved down
33. Replace the handle
34. Carefully snap the c-clip back on
35. Put the nut on
36. Put the nut lock or cap (which ever your reel has) back on and set assembly aside
37. Remove 3 screws from palming side of reel
38. Remove side cover and wipe the inside the plate of any grease or oil. The plastic cog should also be wiped down well. If the cogwheel is held on with a c-clip, remove the clip and take the cog off and wipe down well. Place a drop of oil on the post and replace the cog and clip. If the cog does not have a clip, wipe it down well and place a couple drops of oil on the top of the cog.
39. If the reel has a clicker, remove the 2 rubber/plastic tall spacers that go on top of the clicker plate over the posts of the frame
40. Remove the clicker “moon” shape plate
41. Using a screwdriver, take the pawl cap off of the line guide on the frame and shake the pawl out.
42. On the frame on the palming side there is a thin, long lock that slides and locks onto 2 posts on the frame. Remove this
43. Slide the worm gear out
44. Remove the worm gear cover and the line guide
45. Wipe down all parts very, very well. Make sure that the inside of the worm gear cover is cleaned out well.
46. ALL grease and oil should be gone off of the worm gear.
47. If your reel has a plastic thumb rest, pop this off and brush down well. You will probably see a lot of grime, dirt and weeds built up on the underside.
48. Using the toothbrush, clean out the cross post of the frame that the line guide runs in, this is a trouble spot for people.
49. Slide the worm gear back into the cover and through the frame
50. Slide the line guide on making sure the top of the guide is running in the frame
51. Replace the locking clip that holds the worm gear in-place
52. Place the “moon” shaped clicker assembly on with the clicker are pointing towards the middle
53. Place the 2-plastic/rubber spacers over the posts that the clicker is on.
54. Replace the side plate and 3 screws
55. Replace the spool
56. Place only a single drop of oil on each of the 2 brake blocks and a drop or two of oil on the bearings in the end of the spool.
57. Place the axle in the handle side of the plate and press down firmly on the table or hard surface until it clicks in
58. Run a bead of OIL down the axle and replace in the spool. Slide the side plate onto the posts of the frame for fitting and tighten the thumb screws
59. Take the pawl and place it back into its proper position on the underside of the line guide. Make sure that it is properly in-place and not sticking out of the bottom.
60. Screw the pawl cap back on.
61. Run a bead of OIL, NOT GREASE, across the worm gear. Turn handle several times to get he line guide to move back and forth several times to work the oil in.
This is the quick run down of taking apart a reel, cleaning; lubing and getting it back together. There should not be any parts left over. | |
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Posts: 578
Location: Sheboygan Falls, WI | THANKS MIKE!!!
I knew it had to be easy or something. I think I know what I could have done, but thanks.
Chuck | |
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Posts: 8772
| LOL
Lambeau,
I was in the process of copying all that and I was about to post it on the broken reel thread... | |
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Posts: 578
Location: Sheboygan Falls, WI | Ya know, Lambeau messaged me laughing that all I had to do was cut and paste.
Well, now all of you are thinking that this guy can repair reels, but can't cut and paste. I want you to all to know that I have been cutting and pasting since before I was in kindergarten. I just did not want to do it on this new computer as I did it to the last one and it was stuck to the screen. I think I may have used too much paste.:(
Now, in all honesty, I know how to cut and paste, but was not thinking at the time. Thanks again Mike. LOL 
Chuck | |
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Location: Athens, Ohio | Question about the high speed reels and bucktails. I'm guessing that my C-4 will pull small bucktails OK, it's just the bigger ones that give problems?
Again, like the truck, a smaller boat will pull and wear on the gears less than a big one? thanks for the help, m
Edited by mikie 6/16/2006 5:34 AM
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Posts: 8772
| Mikie
It's the resistance that bigger bucktails provide that kills the C4's.
The difference between the C4 and the C3 is the number of teeth on the main drive gear -- the diameter of the gear itself and the thickness of the metal remain the same. In order to get the higher gear ratio of 6.3:1, the teeth need to be cut a lot finer as there are a lot more of them.
Because of that the thickness and strength of those teeth are significantly less than what you would find on a C3, and cranking that reel under a constant load (big bucktails) will eventually render it dead.
What its really meant for is jerkbaits -- you do the work with the rod, and the reel just takes up the slack line. The advantage is it does so very quickly, which means less work for you.
So how big is too big if you're going to use it for bucktails?
My guess is that smaller bucktails that don't have a lot of resistance will still wear out the gears, but at a much slower pace.
Does that mean you'll get two seasons out of it or 10? That I cannot answer.
What I wonder about the C4 is this:
If burning big bucktails will eventually do it in, what about reeling a FISH????
It's not a condition I usually encounter, but one would think that may eventually cause a problem, you know?
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Location: Athens, Ohio | It is becoming apparent to me that I will not be overly concerned about wearing out my reels on excessive numbers of muskies. m | |
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Posts: 578
Location: Sheboygan Falls, WI | Cool beans!! I will let esoxaddict answer the questions for me now. I am serious, he has hit the nail on the head exactly with the answers that he has given to people, this one included.
Let me be a little specific on things though for you Mikie. If you are going to throw Mepps #5 Aglias, Musky Candy, Rizzo Wiz's or smaller baits like those, you should NOT have a problem. If you bump up to tandem Musky Killers or baits like that, then you are asking for sore arms and a rough reel.
EA nailed it though with the use of the C4 and the description of the differences. Either he has paid close attention to what I have previously posted or he has just been sitting back in the shadows out of site. Either way, I am glad that he is helping out here.
Now, for EA's fish question. The drag will save you with the fish. If it starts to pull too hard, the drag will slip, thus taking some pressure off of the gears with reeling it in. If you had a direct drive reel with no drag and you just reeled them straight in with all of the pressure on the gears, then I could possibly see doing something to the gears eventually. You would have to catch many-a-fish to really adversely affect it though.
Throw the small stuff Mikie, it should not be a problem.
Chuck | |
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Location: Athens, Ohio | Thanks, Chuck (great to finally meet ya, by the way!); I use my C4 on a lighter Berkley rod that I designate specifically for small baits: small Mepps, BassSnatchers, Ducktail's Weed Warriors and MuskieThings, etc. I find it difficult to throw small baits with a big, stiff rod and the C3, so this is my small bait set up.
I figure, given time, it will produce some wear on the reel but for now it seems to do well. As, I hope, you are. m | |
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Posts: 350
Location: WESTERN WI | Great information for guys like me who are having a "reel repair facility" conduct these cleanings for a chunk of change I could buy more baits with.
My questions is how do you know when to clean and oil/grease them? When they get a little loud mechanically or after 200 hours of fishing for instance. At least once a season I agree is a good start but I know my 2 main reels could use it a little more but how often?
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Posts: 21
| lambeau - 6/14/2006 12:10 PM
People are complaining that they are burning up gears on the Abu Garcia’s. The problem here is 9 out of 10 times they are using high-speed gears for buck tail fishing. This is a big NO, NO!!! The tolerances on the gears are so tight that the high pull from the buck tail will eat these gears up. It will start out as a buzz; progress to a grind and then to the reel locking up. 6.3:1 gears are great for top water, jerk baits, glide baits and twitch baits. Stick to the lower gear ratios for throwing buck tails. Take your truck again and pull your heavy boat. It is easier on the truck to drop it into a lower gearing, as it will work much less than in the higher gear.
This is true if the reel has stock brass gears! BUT, you can order 6.3:1 ‘Stainless Steel’ gears from Abu, which are much stronger . These gears were used in some BigGame & XX00 HCL reels.
Stainless steel on the right.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/glaucus_fisher/695050d6.jpg
They’re a perfect replacement.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/glaucus_fisher/da_1.jpg
esoxaddict - 6/20/2006 11:43 AM
The difference between the C4 and the C3 is the number of teeth on the main drive gear -- the diameter of the gear itself and the thickness of the metal remain the same. In order to get the higher gear ratio of 6.3:1, the teeth need to be cut a lot finer as there are a lot more of them.
Actually, both main drive gears on C4 and C3's have exactly the same number of teeth, 63. (& yes they are the same diameter)
And the C4 pinion has LESS (10) teeth than the C3 pinion (12).
(Trivial note: the C3 really has a 5.25:1 ratio, not 5.3:1.
63 divided by 12 =5.25)
C4 6.3:1 gears on the left, C3 5.3:1 on the right.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/glaucus_fisher/1f882601.jpg
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Posts: 8772
| So what you're saying is basically you can convert a C3 to be 6.3:1 or convert a C4 to 5.3:1 simply by changing the pinion gear? Not sure why you would want to, but it IS possible, right?
And let's say you buy the stainless steel "upgrade"...
Can you then use it to burn big bucktails without fear of wearing it out?
Because I'm thinking a high speed reel with a power handle and stainless steel drive and pinion gears would be the answer to a lot of problems!
Those of you who know, what say you? | |
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Posts: 21
| esoxaddict - 6/26/2006 10:27 AM
So what you're saying is basically you can convert a C3 to be 6.3:1 or convert a C4 to 5.3:1 simply by changing the pinion gear? Not sure why you would want to, but it IS possible, right?
esoxaddict… I never said that….in fact I don’t know if mixing C3 with C4 gears will work…If I were to guess, I’d say it would NOT work because Abu uses different part numbers for the C3 & C4 main gears…I really don’t know if it is possible.
You can check the schematics for most Abu reels at these sites:
http://www.fishingreelrepair.com/intro.asp
http://www.angelfotogalerie.de/rollenservice/abu/
http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/
Here’s a post about C4’s & stainless gears at Mikes site: http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=393
esoxaddict - 6/26/2006 10:27 AM
And let's say you buy the stainless steel "upgrade"...
Can you then use it to burn big bucktails without fear of wearing it out?
Could they wear out?...Sure, anything is possible…Johnny Dadson (@ Muskie Fix/Tooth) wore out 3 (or was it 5) Shimano Calcutta TE’s, and those come with oversized HEG gears!!! BUT stainless steel is certainly tougher and stronger than brass.
Here’s a write up about stainless steel Abu gears by Tres (an Abu guru @ Hatteras Outfitters): http://www.hatterasoutfitters.com/faq_magtuning.htm
<quote> ““Upgrades:
Another upgrade I really like in the CS Mag reels is the addition of HS 6.3:1 gears for throwing metal, plugs, etc., where a hi-speed retrieve can be a real plus. The stainless HS gears are even better IMO, especially for heavier duty work. For whatever reason these things are really smooth and feel tighter than the std. or HS brass gears but there is a petty good price difference between the two and the brass gears work just fine.”<end quote>
In my experience, the stainless gears (which I got from Hatteras Outfitters) are noisier and rougher feeling than the stock brass ones.
Take my advice for what it’s worth, I ain’t no expert, but I have done some Abu reel modifications:
http://floridasurffishing.net/forum/dcboard.php?az=set_threaded_mod...
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Posts: 66
Location: Padova - Italy | Glaucus - 6/27/2006 12:56 AM
esoxaddict - 6/26/2006 10:27 AM
So what you're saying is basically you can convert a C3 to be 6.3:1 or convert a C4 to 5.3:1 simply by changing the pinion gear? Not sure why you would want to, but it IS possible, right?
esoxaddict… I never said that….in fact I don’t know if mixing C3 with C4 gears will work…If I were to guess, I’d say it would NOT work because Abu uses different part numbers for the C3 & C4 main gears…I really don’t know if it is possible.
It is possible.
You can use the C3 with the pinion of C4 and viceversa. | |
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Posts: 389
Location: Corning, Iowa | I probably missed it, but what can I use for cleaning fluid? Is there anything, that is too strong. I have some citrus, in a puff can. Will it work? Thanks Doug | |
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Posts: 618
Location: Seymour, WI | I have two C-3 reels that I want to send in for cleaning & repair. Who should I send them to? I don't want to work on them myself.
Thanks,
Grass, | |
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Posts: 518
Location: Cave Run Lake KY. | Grass - - GO TO -- your warranty info your find this # 1-800- abu-garcia and talk to them. I send the real's I cant repaire myself to them. I have two 6500c - syncro's that they repared for me that are now better than they were new. Clean and repair all your reel's Jan. and they will be good till next Jan. Marv. | |
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Posts: 3863
| Wow this is a terrific thread. Nice job folks, especially Lambeau.
I'm glad to see Tres at Hatterass Outfitters mentioned. That guy has been helping me for years now. Reviewing the "Reel Candy" offered on the Hatterass website helped me understand what's possible in terms of maintenance, home repair and upgrades. So far I've not encountered a problem with any of my Abus I couldn't manage by myself, and if I can learn that stuff so can anyone else reading this post. Of course you have to have the exploded reel diagrams found on the Garcia website.
I didn't notice a favorite Abu topic of mine - upgrading the drag washers with Smooothies. I think it should be done with all the old 5000 and 6000 series reels. Not sure about newer Abu reels, all I have is older ones, and I mostly use my 4 "ticked out" 5600ABUs. | |
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Posts: 1270
| Ranger, Here is a trick the old timers used to smooth up the drags on the older, single drag, Abu reels. Replace the "cork" washer with one that you cut out of the top of a Cool-Whip cover! Same as a Smoothie! | |
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Posts: 412
Location: Waukesha, WI | a mighty thanks for the cleaning info. I cleaned a problematic reel, and it's back in business. Without the info, I was afraid of doing more harm than good.
Can the exploded views be found in PDFs? I've got 5 slightly different Abus, and one is a black max I'd like to know if I can convert so the line guide doesn't disengage on the cast. How about recommending a place to order parts. TIA, Mike | |
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Posts: 101
Location: Northern Illinois | I screwed up somehow. I took apart my 5500C for its annual cleaning and lube job. When I put it all back together, the anti reverse does not work. Anybody out there know what I did wrong?  | |
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Posts: 1270
| Is your 5500C an older model without instant anti reverse? If so you probably did not but the IAR "dog" back in correctly. You need to spread the "ears" of the dog and place one ear on each side of the drive shaft. If it is an IAR model you probably forgot to put the IAR sleeve under the star wheel. | |
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Posts: 2112
Location: The Sportsman, home, or out on the water | Chuck is (and still) da man! I hope all is going your way. Please call me at 920-954-6350 or 920-843-1744. i have not heard from you in a LONNNGGGG time. | |
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Posts: 147
Location: WI - Land of small muskies and big jawbones | lambeau - 6/14/2006 12:10 PM
Basic Abu Reel Cleaning 101 For Newer Reels!!
Following is a basic step-by-step outline of breaking down; cleaning, lubing and reassembly of newer Abu Garcia bait casters with instant anti-reverse.
Before you get started, make sure you have the following tools and materials so you do not have to move until the reel is complete. Roll of paper towels, Abu Oil (my preference), Abu Grease (my preference), screwdrivers of various sizes and styles, pointed awl type tool, pliers, smaller needle nose, 18mm wrench (I believe that is the size) and a crescent wrench. Also a can of Reel Magic comes in handy sometimes. One sided razor blade and a toothbrush is also necessary.
First get your work area ready. Place a paper towel down in front of you as a workstation. Make sure that you are working in a well lit area just incase any small parts fall or go flying.
Now it is time for the actual work.
1. Remove the handle nut lock or nut cap. Both would have a small screw that goes into the handle.
2. Remove the handle nut.
3. CAREFULLY remove the C-clip that is on the top of the shaft. Without this off, the handle will not come off. WARNING: IF NOT REMOVED CAREFULLY, THE C-CLIP HAS A FLYING DISTANCE OF ¼ MILE. OKAY, SO IT CAN GO ACROSS THE ROOM, YOU GET THE POINT.
4. Remove the handle and the handle washer (thin curved metal washer between handle and drag star.
5. Remove drag star by turning back words and completely remove it. Keep all of the items removed so far together in one spot.
6. Thoroughly wipe down all parts removed so far with a paper towel and keep in one spot.
7. Loosen the three thumbscrews on the handle side plate and remove the whole plate assembly. (They will not come out of the plate)
8. Remove the spool and set aside
9. Remove the axle from the side plate if it is not out already. If it appears to be stuck tight, pull firmly with a pliers and it will come out.
10. Remove the 2 screws on the handle side plate.
11. Carefully remove the side plate and wipe ALL dirt, grease, oil, and grime from it. If necessary, spray a little Reel Magic on a paper towel and wipe the side plates off getting in all grooves on the sides. Use a paper towel to wipe out the A/R bearing that is permanently in the side plate if it looks to have excess oil/grease on it.
12. Remove the drive shaft that has the main gear on it and take the main gear off. If you have a newer reel with multiple drag washers, there should be no reason what so ever to replace the drag washers.
13. Wipe the main gear, black drag washers and the silver metal washers down well. They should not be oily or greasy when put back together.
14. Place one black washer on the shaft, then the main gear, then a black washer, then the round, silver washer, then a black washer, then a silver washer with 2 nipples, then a black washer then the top plate.
15. On top of the last washer, place the silver cylinder with the square inside down. (Look at both ends and you will see what I mean)
16. Take off the black position holder that has 2 thin metal arms.
17. Take off the pinion gear and its black holder. Pop the gear out and wipe both down well.
18. Take the clutch arm off and wipe off. This is one part that can wear. If you are having problems with the button not popping back out, this is probably the culprit. On the end that would be by the drive shaft there is a piece that sticks up. If it is showing brass and is rounded, it should be replaced. Inexpensive part.
19. Take the push button off and wipe off.
20. Take the bottom arm off and wipe off.
21. Wipe down the main plate of all oil and grease
22. Place the bottom arm back on
23. Now the push button
24. Now the clutch arm
25. Now the pinion gear and holder. Gear part up, beveled edge of holder down.
26. Place a small amount of OIL on the main post and then replace the drive shaft/main gear assembly
27. Take the grease and place a minimal amount of grease all the way around the main gear; too much is not good.
28. Replace the black position holder and make sure it snaps all the way down to the plate.
29. Place the side cover back on and put the 2 screws back in.
30. Place the 2 curved washers back on the drive shaft so they are curved towards each other and will spring.
31. Screw the star wheel back down
32. Replace the thin curved washer on the star curved down
33. Replace the handle
34. Carefully snap the c-clip back on
35. Put the nut on
36. Put the nut lock or cap (which ever your reel has) back on and set assembly aside
37. Remove 3 screws from palming side of reel
38. Remove side cover and wipe the inside the plate of any grease or oil. The plastic cog should also be wiped down well. If the cogwheel is held on with a c-clip, remove the clip and take the cog off and wipe down well. Place a drop of oil on the post and replace the cog and clip. If the cog does not have a clip, wipe it down well and place a couple drops of oil on the top of the cog.
39. If the reel has a clicker, remove the 2 rubber/plastic tall spacers that go on top of the clicker plate over the posts of the frame
40. Remove the clicker “moon” shape plate
41. Using a screwdriver, take the pawl cap off of the line guide on the frame and shake the pawl out.
42. On the frame on the palming side there is a thin, long lock that slides and locks onto 2 posts on the frame. Remove this
43. Slide the worm gear out
44. Remove the worm gear cover and the line guide
45. Wipe down all parts very, very well. Make sure that the inside of the worm gear cover is cleaned out well.
46. ALL grease and oil should be gone off of the worm gear.
47. If your reel has a plastic thumb rest, pop this off and brush down well. You will probably see a lot of grime, dirt and weeds built up on the underside.
48. Using the toothbrush, clean out the cross post of the frame that the line guide runs in, this is a trouble spot for people.
49. Slide the worm gear back into the cover and through the frame
50. Slide the line guide on making sure the top of the guide is running in the frame
51. Replace the locking clip that holds the worm gear in-place
52. Place the “moon” shaped clicker assembly on with the clicker are pointing towards the middle
53. Place the 2-plastic/rubber spacers over the posts that the clicker is on.
54. Replace the side plate and 3 screws
55. Replace the spool
56. Place only a single drop of oil on each of the 2 brake blocks and a drop or two of oil on the bearings in the end of the spool.
57. Place the axle in the handle side of the plate and press down firmly on the table or hard surface until it clicks in
58. Run a bead of OIL down the axle and replace in the spool. Slide the side plate onto the posts of the frame for fitting and tighten the thumb screws
59. Take the pawl and place it back into its proper position on the underside of the line guide. Make sure that it is properly in-place and not sticking out of the bottom.
60. Screw the pawl cap back on.
61. Run a bead of OIL, NOT GREASE, across the worm gear. Turn handle several times to get he line guide to move back and forth several times to work the oil in.
This is the quick run down of taking apart a reel, cleaning; lubing and getting it back together. There should not be any parts left over.
Glad you didn't post the "long rundown" on how to do this. Holy crap! | |
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Posts: 101
Location: Northern Illinois | reelman - 2/6/2007 9:50 PM
Is your 5500C an older model without instant anti reverse? If so you probably did not but the IAR "dog" back in correctly. You need to spread the "ears" of the dog and place one ear on each side of the drive shaft. If it is an IAR model you probably forgot to put the IAR sleeve under the star wheel.
That did the trick. She's good as new and ready for the opener! Thanks! | |
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Posts: 550
Location: So. Illinois | the instructions for cleaning a Abu Garcia reel were a great help. I am a visual type persn and had some trouble following the instructions. I went out on the internet and found the following. This was helpful to augment the instructions provided.
http://musky.com/Features/AbuTips.htm | |
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Posts: 8772
| FYI
a reminder for those attemting to clean/grease your own reels. Mentioned before, but worth repeating:
The "C" clip that holds the handle in place really does fly quite a distance. I'm talking across the room, off the ceiling, off the wall, and into the little decorative flower vase thing on the shelf, which you won't even think of looking in until you've crawled around on your hands and knees on the floor for 20 minutes and realized that you never heard it hit the floor because it never came down...
Other than finding the ^$&%^ little clip after it goes flying, it's not difficult as long as you pay attention to what you're doing.
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| how do u get off the cover to repair the worm
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Posts: 32880
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | What's a 'u'? Could that mean 'you'?
Texting has ruined the King's English. | |
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Location: Latitude 41.3016 Longitude 88.6160 | Wow I even text at work now, texting is here to stay, get with it or b left behind.
My Father said a pic is worth a million words so here is three sites on rebuilding ABU REELS. http://www.tackletour.com/articlereelmaintenanceaburecord.html
http://www.realsreels.com/servicing/Ambassadeur%206500c3%20service....
http://www.stripersonline.com/surftalk/showthread.php?t=650893
If anyone would like one on a different reel then PM me and I will see if if I have it on file. | |
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Posts: 32880
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | I would prefer folks use real words and express themselves in English whenever possible so we don't end up with 'text message' abbreviated posts here, and I intend to encourage that strongly. I also would appreciate it if folks would not post in all caps.
Thanks for the links, excellent information! | |
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Posts: 358
Location: London, England | With you all the way on that Steve. By the way though, it's definitely the Queen's English...  | |
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