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Posts: 71
Location: Waukesha, WI | In the past there was a discussion on drilling fiberglass. Someone suggested that something (rubber?) be put in the holes before putting the screws in. Can someone help? My new boat is supposed to be delivered tomorrow.
Gene |
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Location: Athens, Ohio | Gene, hope you give that boat a good slime job this weekend, very cool.
My only tip on drilling fib-glas is to put a piece of scotch tape or duct tape over the spot to be drilled, I think that is supposed to keep it from cracking.
I find the whole idea spooky so I don't have much experience with it, maybe call your boat dealer or manufacturer. Ranger's website has an e-mail feature you might try. See ya soon, m |
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Posts: 172
| Gene,
Use a drill bit one size smaller then the screws you are going to use. Buy a tap tool that matches your screw size. Tap the hole and use a good epoxy made for fiberglass before you put the screw in. |
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Posts: 5874
| Gene,
Congrats on the new boat. What did you get?
As for drilling into the gelcoat, just go slow. Measure twice, then measure again. And double check, and then, drill. Use MASKING tape, as duct tape gets gooey, and you'll pull the stringy stuff out of it and wrap around the drill bit. Drill a pilot hole, 1/8" works, first. Then the final hole. Again, go slow. Let the drill do the work. Try to avoide letting the drill bite too much, and pulling itself in too quickly. When you have the hole drilled, use a champher bit to relieve the hole. This will avoid strespoints and cracks. Use the correct size drill bit for the screw you are using, if using sheetmetal screws. If you are going to use machine screws, and tapping holes, use the correct drill bit for the tap you are using. You will still need to champher thew hole, but do it after tapping. Finally, you can use clear RTV to help seal the holes from water, and secure the screw in the hole.
Good luck. Once ytou gat that first hole drilled, the butterflys go away!!
Edited by Shep 6/5/2006 12:50 PM
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Posts: 1270
| I second Shep's idea about counter sinking the hole, if you don't it is a sure way to get cracks in your gel coat. If possible I prefer to use stainless bolts instead of screws also, then there is not preasure on the fiberglass. |
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Posts: 1936
Location: Eau Claire, WI | What Shep said...
Been doing it for years to my boats and to others, so long as you follow the instructions he outlined you should have no problems. |
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Posts: 1438
| Shep-
You're soooo smart!
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Posts: 71
Location: Waukesha, WI | Thanks for the good advice. Shep, I got a 188 Ranger with a 150 Opti. Another red Ranger to match the car, of course. On my previous boat, I had the dealer add Grippers, but some of the screws were loose. I thought I can do a better job myself. Can't I countersink, by just using a bigger drill bit? Anything about anchoring with a rubber device? I was visualizing something like was used to secure Motorguide (or Evinrude?) trolling motors. See you soon, Mikie.
Gene |
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Posts: 335
Location: Pulaski, WI | What about cutting a large hole, for say a speaker?
Thanks,
John |
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Posts: 32945
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | Hole saw, sharp drill bit to start it. |
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Posts: 39
Location: Cedar, MN | If you're cutting a big hole for speakers use a dremel with a fiberglass bit. works great.
Brad |
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Posts: 335
Location: Pulaski, WI | Well I've been wanting another dremel since the ex took the one I bought her. Tape the hole?
Thanks,
John |
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Posts: 734
Location: Watertown, MN | Follow sheps advice, heaven forbib I am saying that,
1-Make sure bit is sharp
2-Get stainless screws, so no oxidations- marine screw usualy have chart on back telling you what size bits to use
3- Silicone also work instead of RTV
Troyz |
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Location: Wisconsin | If you are going to use a hole saw on fiberglass, make sure it is sharp and run it backwards. Works well and you can't over do it. |
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Drilling Fiberglass