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Posts: 578
Location: Sheboygan Falls, WI | I own a 1998 Smoker Craft 161 Pro Mag. It has a ton of carpeting and I am looking to have it re-done. I think the way it is done, I may need to take off various riveted stripping to do all of the carpet.
Has anyone had any experience re-doing a WHOLE boat?
How big of a pain is it to do?
Is it best to take it to a professional and not screw around with it?
Should I just take it back to the factory in Indiana to have them do it?
About how much am I looking at to have this done?
Thanks in advance for the help.
Chuck |
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Posts: 326
Location: Plainfield IL | C_Nelson-
I recarpeted my 1989 Champ in 2004. It took 2 weekends sat and sunday to do but was worth the time. Here is an article which I followed.
http://www.bassandwalleyeboats.com/output.cfm?id=942733
Search
http://www.bassboatcentral.com/ under boards for more info.
I bought all the supplies at Lowes. They sell Marine grade 20 oz carpeting. Dont buy the spray adhesive, buy the liquid that you can spread with a brush. Keep the old carpet for templates. Roll out the carpet in the same direction so you dont get different patterns in the carpet. Here are some pics. I also got new seats at the same time.
Good luck
Edited by Running_Hot 4/14/2006 11:56 AM
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| it's an easier job than it looks - i did it myself on my old boat.
pull the old stuff out, acetone the surfaces to clean them up.
measure twice, cut once.
when i replaced mine i didn't re-use the riveted stiping.
i did use spray adhesive (3M Hi-Strength 90): easier to apply, held up 2 years of heavy use with no issues.
here's a link with pics and description:
http://muskie.outdoorsfirst.com/board/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=14...
doing a search on-site for "carpet" will get you a lot of good info... |
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Posts: 1936
Location: Eau Claire, WI | Chuck,
I've done it in the past as well, and currently am finishing my own custom deck extenstions/storage for my "new to me" 618.
As stated before if you are "handy around the house" or "backyard mechanic" type person, it is a fairly easy job. Have a little patience and if you have some basic tools you can do it. A nice side benefit is having pride in the job when you've finished, and also having some extra cash from not paying someone else to do it.
Some good technical tips above. Lambeu did an awesome job on his old Ranger. Begin with recovering a smaller piece, like a hatch cover, and work your way up to larger items. This will help you build confidence in working with the products. It's actually kind of fun.
Feel free to give me a call if you have any questions, I'll do what I can to help you out.
There are also some good tips and images out on www.bassboatcentral.com on a page they have for reconditioning boats. |
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Posts: 1335
Location: Chicago, Beverly | I used a Henry brand adhesive on mine, Henry 263 to be exact.... it has held up very well except one or two small spots I went to thin with the adhesive... If you do take it back to Smokercraft, be sure to schedule a trip fishing down there when picking up or dropping off...lol.... You got Webster just maybe 20 miles away from them.... If any of your deck peices are removable that can also make it easier to do... |
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Posts: 578
Location: Sheboygan Falls, WI | Thanks for all the in-put. Your rides look GREAT!! Mike, didn't you get rid of that boat? Did Jason buy it?
Now, for a dumb question. Is it going to be any different doing the inside of an aluminum boat as opposed to the fiberglass ones you guys have done? I am going to have to check things out closely. I think that my flooring and such is all wood covered with carpet. It may make it easier doing it piece by piece and then re-setting the floor.
I am going to do this next fall/winter. Anyone in the Rhinelander area have a nice, warm, heated building that I could do this in?  I may have to do some investigating on who around here would have a place to do it. My garage is cold.
Keep the suggestions coming guys. I am now actually looking forward to tackling this project myself. I know that I re-did the inside of a charter out of Manitowoc for a guy about 11 years ago. Carpet still is looking pretty darn good if I do say so myself.
Chuck |
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Posts: 87
| Chuck, Recarpeting is pretty easy, just make sure you use the best material you can get. If you are going to go through the hassel of redoing it, use quality material that will last. Heated garage is a must. Terry
I would use an alcohol based adhesive.
Edited by tile guy 4/14/2006 6:43 PM
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| Don't buy new carpet that is heavier than what you are replacing. Moat carpeting in boats is rated at 20 oz. When I replaced the carpet in my tuffy, I made the mistake of installing the 22 oz. Now my covers are too tight of a fit.
Haven't figured out how to rectify that one yet...
Also, make sure that you lay the carpet in the same direction.
It is not that difficult of a job and you'll save a ton of $$$$.
Good Luck
Ubuck |
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Location: Athens, Ohio | My buddy does home carpet for a living and he suggested that if I ever try to re-do my boat, be sure to use one of those carpet stretcher things that you bump along with your knees. This prevents bunching and keeps it straight. They also make a stretcher that is like an old car jack, you ratchet it after it is set against a frame.
Chuck, I've got a garage that's heated, bring your boat to Ohio when you season closes, we'll fish outta mine while the glue dries on yours! Good luck with it, m |
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Posts: 3511
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | I have done some carpeting of wood floors (which is probably what you are going to be dealing with) and this is what I have found... If you can remove the floor, all the better. What this will allow you to do is once the carpet is pulled from the wood, you can sand off the excess glue. Get a nice smooth surface again, and then use a good marine carpet adhesive.
As others have stated, it will definitely take time to do a nice job. Corners can be a pain since they require a different kind of cut altogether. Once I got the carpet cut to size, I laid it carpet side down, then traced the edge of the board so I knew where to lay the board down once the glue is on. Apply the glue to the board, allign the board to the carpet, turn the whole thing over and use a rolling pin from the center outwards. Once done there, apply glue to the edges of the board, curl the carpet around the edge, rollin pin again from center out, then use staples on the underside (aluminum ones). Once the glue sets up, the board will be nice and flat with no carpet ripples in it.
Fun job, but tedious...
Steve |
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