|
|
Posts: 284
Location: Fishing the weeds | Does anybody have the plans for a drying rack for baits. Any help would be appreciated. Pat |
|
| |
|
Posts: 479
Location: Eden Prairie & Pine Island | I usually just use a slow RPM AC motor purchased on line or at a liquidator and rig it to BBQ spit (BBQ Rotisserie motors don't hold up for the number of lures I make); it ain't pretty, but it works pretty good. Here, however are a couple nicer ones I've seen and considered. One built into a blue storage tub and another built with PVC tubbing. Good luck.
(nubatch1[1]compressed.jpg)
Attachments
----------------
 nubatch1[1]compressed.jpg (30KB - 1957 downloads)
dryercompressed.jpg (22KB - 545 downloads)
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 284
Location: Fishing the weeds | Thank's G-Man. That should do the trick. Pat |
|
| |
|
Posts: 1504
Location: Oregon | GMAN,
Cool drying racks, how do you get the clear-coat covered lure to the spring tension rack? seems like it would be a sticky mess! thx.
jed v. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 393
Location: Kawarthas, Ontario | Jed, my drying rack is quite similar to the top one. I too use springs to hold the baits in place. I load the bait in the rack first and then apply the epoxy. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 1504
Location: Oregon | Oh, ok, well, how do you apply the epoxy then with 20 baits turning on the wheel?
And, is it hard to get the spring wire out of the screw eyes once the clear coat is dry?
thx lunge.
jed |
|
| |
|
Posts: 393
Location: Kawarthas, Ontario | My wheel only holds 8 baits. I load up the whole wheel and than epoxy one bait, turn the wheel and epoxy the next bait and so on.
Usually the springs come out of the eyes with no difficulty. At worst a pair of needle nose pliers are all that's needed. The epoxy around the eyes helps to seal everything better too. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 479
Location: Eden Prairie & Pine Island | You have to work quickly when you have several lures to turn at one time. Be sure to have an ample supply of EnviroTex prepared when you start. I apply the Enviro with a cheap plumber's flux brush (as they can be discarded after use) turning the rack a quarter turn at a time until they are completely coated. Then a little touch up my be necessary right away after you get them spinning. Take an old piece of wire or something and remove some of the excess goop from the points where the springs or wires attach to the lures as they are spinning initially. What little accumulates later does not pose a problem when you go to remove them. Of course, you wil want to periodically check on these lures while they are spinning until the goop gets set up pretty good, too.
Edited by GMan 1/17/2006 9:19 AM
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 941
Location: Freedom, WI | I wear latex gloves and dip with my right hand and hold with the left. Them clamp a vice grip to the belly screw eye and finish smearing epoxy on. Then stop rack from turning (floor button) and hook it on. I will post a picture of my rack as soon as I can figure out how to get the file size small enough. It holds 44 baits.
Edited by h2os2t 1/17/2006 5:46 PM
Attachments
----------------
rack 6.jpg (24KB - 299 downloads)
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 1504
Location: Oregon | That looks cool, wish I could see it better H20. Is that a metal box-like frame? Did you say you "dip" the lures? I have thought about this in the past myself but never tried it because I figured there would be too much waste of clear coat.
jed v.
Edited by RiverMan 1/18/2006 12:26 AM
|
|
| |
|
Location: Duluth, MN - Superior, WI | They all look great!!
I’m with Jed. It is all I can do to keep the clear from dripping from the one that I’m working on, now add eight. I would have a pile of clear on the floor when I was done. You are good.
Thanks
-Corey
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 941
Location: Freedom, WI | Jed - I could email a picture to you , I had to shrink it to get it to upload on the site. It is a box frame like a box kite. I dip my fingers in the epoxy and smear it on instead of brushing it. The epoxy I use gives me more time to coat the baits than E tex did. My wife helps me when I do a batch, she clamps on the vice grip when I get it half coated. Then I take it it with my left and finish coating then hand it back to her and she puts it on the rack. Corey, the key is to keep the rack turning between baits (floor button works good for that). Also takes practice and trial and error. |
|
| |
|
Location: Duluth, MN - Superior, WI | Roger,
I would love to see the photo if you could e-mail it to me. That is a great idea using the glove. Saves time I bet!!! What are you using for the clear coat, if I may ask?
Thanks
-Corey
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 1504
Location: Oregon | I would very much like to see the pic: [email protected] thank you.
I also stop my dryer when I put on the lures. I brush the clear on and then stop the dryer, attach it, then restart and continue.
jed |
|
| |
|
Posts: 941
Location: Freedom, WI | http://www.steebar.com/ is what I use. The more expensive stuff. Pic coming your ways. |
|
| |
|
Location: Duluth, MN - Superior, WI | Thanks for the info Roger. How do you compare the Steebar to Etex.
-Corey
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 941
Location: Freedom, WI | Corey - Holds up better and easy to work with, also clearer. |
|
| |
|
| If anyone has more photos of drying racks, I'd like to see them. Also where can I get a good quality, low RPM motor with a common male or female linkage point for easy attachment to the rack? Thanks
Edited by SuperMuskie 10/16/2006 9:52 PM
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 910
Location: Hastings, mn, 55033 | heres a pic of my first wheel.
i run 1/8" brass rod(its aluminum in the pic) through the lure and clip into the alligator clips on the ends. coat a bait, clip it in, start the motor. coat another, stop motor ,clip it in, start motor etc etc
used a rotisserie motor from menards.
Edited by castmaster 10/16/2006 10:07 PM
Attachments
----------------
dryingwheel.jpg (41KB - 402 downloads)
|
|
| |
|
| This is what I have but it won't do more than 10 at a time but adjusts from 4" to 20" baits
http://muskiefool.com/images2/muskiepic/BIG%20WHEEL.jpg |
|
| |
|
Posts: 680
Location: Muskoka Ontario,Canada | Drying epoxy is the biggest pain!!!
Here's my own contraption!
Attachments
----------------
P1000445 (Small).JPG (52KB - 783 downloads)
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 502
Location: Lincoln UK | Some very nice solutions. |
|
| |
|
| Does anyone make a fast drying epoxy that works well on baits. All of the faster drying epoxy I've used turns yellow very quick and is brittle. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 786
Location: Minnesota | Anyone have a good idea for getting out bubbles? Mine works great right now but just looking for others. I use a plumbers tourch and give the baits some fast hits and the bubble sgo away. I used to just breath on them but that made me a little dizzy after 10 big baits! lol
James
PS-Awsome drying racks! Really like the PVC tubing rack. I think that is what I will make next. Got the motors already. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 680
Location: Muskoka Ontario,Canada | The very best way to reduce bubbles is to first place the resin bottle into a bowl of warm water to heat it up. Be careful not to get water into the bottle of course!
You'll notice far fewer bubbles when you mix in the hardener and the mixture will be less viscous (More liquidy).
Keep the drying wheel turning in between each baits application or it will drip off that much faster.
During the first 20 minutes of curing time periodically sweep a blow torch over each bait to pop the bubbles. Be sure not to get too close and to use only a low flame. It is the carbon dioxide and not the heat which causes the bubbles to break.
Overheating one spot will cause the release of more bubbles so be attentive! This should make the task a little less frustrating.
I'm modifying my own rack today actually to better facilitate the removal of baits from the rack and so I can pop one end of the baits off to give better access for applying epoxy and blow torching.
Hope this helps. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 14
Location: belgum | Hi folks,
I wonder what would be the best option for a nice topcoat.
spinning in the length (like musky snax) or spinning like the drying wheel from H2os2t?
There are two options, just wondering what would be the best.
Kind regards,
Johnny |
|
| |
|
Posts: 680
Location: Muskoka Ontario,Canada | I have changed the configuration of my drying wheel to now rotate the baits end over end. I find that it gives the best results for me. The speed that your baits turn will have an effect too once the epoxy begins to set. Too fast and it won't have time to flow and self level. Too slow and it will build up and set unevenly. It's a pain doing clear coating! |
|
| |
|
Posts: 14
Location: belgum | Thanks Musky Snax,
I would like to make a drying rack to for bigger baits and wonder,
what would be a good speed then? 8-10 RPM? or is that to fast?
Kind regards |
|
| |
|
Posts: 680
Location: Muskoka Ontario,Canada | I'm honestly not sure what mine turns at. I think I've read that 4-6 rpm is about right.
Edited by Musky Snax 3/1/2007 2:28 PM
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 941
Location: Freedom, WI | Mine turns 2 rpm. It seems to work out pretty good, for the diameter I would not want much over. Grill motors run from 4 to 6 from the ones I checked. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 235
| Hi there, just thought I would show everyone the drying rack that I made. I like mine turning end over end. The pictures are pretty much self explanitory. If anyone has any questions please ask and I will try to help you out. The motor I use is out of an old micro-wave turntable. Just make sure it is 120 volt. Some are much lower but are marked on the back. I glue a few 2 x 4's together, mark the center and then cut our the circle to whatever dia you want. Then measure around the circle and divide by the number of holders you want to put in the wheel. I use 1/2 inch pvc pipe caps, drill them in and screw off center so they don't turn on you. The holder are made with allagator clamps or nails which go in the tail end of the bait. Just epoxy that one eyescrew in after the lure is clearcoated. Hope this helps you out.
(synchronous_motor__6.jpg)
Attachments
----------------
drying rack3.jpg (37KB - 225 downloads)
drying rack4.jpg (41KB - 338 downloads)
drying_rack_5.jpg (62KB - 201 downloads)
synchronous_motor__6.jpg (6KB - 185 downloads)
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 2378
| Kenslures - 3/2/2007 9:36 AM
Hi there, just thought I would show everyone the drying rack that I made. I like mine turning end over end. The pictures are pretty much self explanitory. If anyone has any questions please ask and I will try to help you out. The motor I use is out of an old micro-wave turntable. Just make sure it is 120 volt. Some are much lower but are marked on the back. I glue a few 2 x 4's together, mark the center and then cut our the circle to whatever dia you want. Then measure around the circle and divide by the number of holders you want to put in the wheel. I use 1/2 inch pvc pipe caps, drill them in and screw off center so they don't turn on you. The holder are made with allagator clamps or nails which go in the tail end of the bait. Just epoxy that one eyescrew in after the lure is clearcoated. Hope this helps you out.
How are you attaching that nail to the end of the pvc section?
Edited by BALDY 3/2/2007 9:52 AM
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 235
| I cut a short piece of wood dowel. Break the edge on a belt sander or belt grinder and drive the dowel into the pvc pipe. Then drill a small pilot hole in the center of the dowel. Put a finishing nail in a drill and taper the nail head while the drill and the belt grinder are running. The tap the tapered nail into the dowel. This works great for me. I will show a picture of my holders. Thanks. and I hope this helps.
Edited by Kenslures 3/2/2007 12:45 PM
(Drying_Rack_Photo 1.jpg)
(Lure_Holders_Photo 1.jpg)
Attachments
----------------
Drying_Rack_Photo 1.jpg (62KB - 275 downloads)
Lure_Holders_Photo 1.jpg (27KB - 203 downloads)
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 14
Location: belgum | Thanks for the info guy's!!
soon i will make my own drying rack 
Kind regards,
Johnny |
|
| |
