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Posts: 380
Location: Il | I painted up some lures and used envirotex and it works good but doesnt seen to get as hard as the clearcoats used on bikini, danczyk, ect.... What are some other options I have out there. |
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Location: Duluth, MN - Superior, WI | That is what most of them are using. It is very important on the 50/50 mix of E-tex. Some use the 2ton epoxy made by Devcon.
-Corey
Edited by ckarren 1/11/2006 1:22 PM
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Posts: 380
Location: Il | Do any of you heat the baits to get them harder. I mix it 50/50 and stur if for a long time to make sure it all mixes well |
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| Hi
If you are looking for a harder clearcoat I suggest experimenting with Devcon. However, you dont want too "hard" of clearcoat as it can crack easier from rocks and anything else its hits.
Hope this helps- Pete |
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Location: Duluth, MN - Superior, WI | Yes, I have tried heating the lure. (1), If you do it just after the bait has dried it will turn back to a liquid. (2), It makes the topcoat fragile, weak and easy to chip.
It doesn’t turn completely hard for about 3days or more. I use syringes for mixing.
-Corey
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Posts: 1504
Location: Oregon | Yep, what Corey said. There are some better clearcoats but they are also kept a very tight secret! I use Etex......
jed v. |
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Posts: 110
Location: WI | Hey guys
Great new forum!! I use EX-74, it is an industrial version on enviro. When I first started making lures I used epoxy which I hated, then I found envirotex in which I loved. I soon found out that when in direct sunlight for long periods of time it started to soften. With the EX-74 I no longer have this problem plus it is UV resistant and much harder. Like you heard before 50/50 mix exact and stir it up until little bubbles rise out of the container (a good 2-3 min.). I also run a torch along the lure after they are top-coated to get out any air bubbles and repeat about every 1/2 hour until they are good to touch.
I think I remember reading that Jed from Bikini Baits (great looking lures) uses Devcon but don't quote me. It is great to have a place like this to come and ask questions and get questions answered
Chad
www.danczyk-lures.com
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Posts: 380
Location: Il | Thanks for the help everyone. I leared my lession awhile ago about not mixing it enough. Its only been a day so it should get harder. Here is a manta I did. Red pearl and black with gold scales. thanks Frank
Edited by fishi8 1/11/2006 4:51 PM
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Posts: 480
| Now build a little rotating machine a you gotter made. I'll post a pic of mine next week. Duff |
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Posts: 1504
Location: Oregon | I am using just regular etex, used Devcon at one time but it seemed a bit too brittle to me. How much working time do you have with the ex 74? That's the only concern I had with the ex 88, you really had to work fast!
jed v. |
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Posts: 380
Location: Il | I was using etex lite. How does it differ from the others. Set time? durability? |
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Posts: 1504
Location: Oregon | How long until it sets up Chad to the touch? Tried to edit my first post but this software won't let you do that after 30 minutes.....:D
jed |
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Posts: 479
Location: Eden Prairie & Pine Island | I've been using at least two coats of EnviroTex Lite with good results. You need to let it set up for 48-72 hours though before it gets real hard. Where do you get the EX-74? |
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Posts: 1438
| E-Lite...
I have been using steel wool after the final paint coat and then again between clear coats to help the clear coat adhere to the bait. After the final paint coat just a light scuff. Between clear coats, I scuff it almost to a satin finish. The clear adheres much better.
Also, after watching several auto painters on the Discover Channel, they say the colors "pop" if you scuff after the final color coat. Now they "wet sand" which does a lot better job than steel wool. I don't think that much sanding is applicable in our case. Supposedly the "wet sanding" removes the impurities/chemicals in the paint that rise to the surface during the drying process.
Scott
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Posts: 110
Location: WI | The EX-74 has about the same set-up time as the enviro-tex lite, I can touch the lures about 4-5hrs. after, but let them set up about 2 days before adding the split rings and hooks. Do a search on google for the EX-74. It is pricey stuff. You get 128oz. of resin and 128oz. of hardner for $100.00. This is the most time consuming part of luremaking for me and I wish the results could be sped up but if you rush it you end up with sh!t. I use 2 coats on all my lures except the lures over 10", they get 3 coats.
Chad
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Location: Duluth, MN - Superior, WI | Thanks for the info Chad. I will have to try it.
-Corey
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Posts: 1504
Location: Oregon | Bummer,
Was hoping it was faster, maybe I will try it after the gallon of what I have is gone.
Thx Chad.
jed v. |
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Posts: 723
| I've heard good things about Steebar, a little pricy though. I have used envirotex before but didn't like it as much as crystal sheen. this stuff is a little stinky when mixed but puts out a tough coat that stays clear. Haven't really had any troubles with it chipping other than normal hook rash. It also goes on a little thinner so it dries quicker. 2 coats and you're good to go. |
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Posts: 941
Location: Freedom, WI | I use the Steebar, very clear and tough. Not much odor, working time is about 45 minutes to an hour. I let it set in the mixing cup for 15 to 20 minutes, I can do about 40 or so baits at one time. Set time is 4 to 5 hours (can be pushed if you keep it warmer) and can take them off the rack in 12 to 14 hours. Can handle them in 20 to 24, longer if humid though. Only problem is it fines any little hole and wicks its way in and causes air bubbles that can be a pain and have to be watched for.
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Posts: 1504
Location: Oregon | I have the same bubble problem with etex too........particulary bad with poplar!
Jed V. |
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Posts: 1438
| Does the torch trick work with your clearcoat Roger?
Roger/Riverman it works great with the E-tex. Light a propane torch and wave it over the wet clear coat quickly. If you do it too slow, it will leave black soot marks on the clearcoat. Do it just right and the bubbles pop and the coat is crystal clear.
Apparently, the carbon monoxide from the flame reacts with the air bubbles to pop them.
Don't know if it will work with your coat though Roger.
Scott |
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Posts: 1504
Location: Oregon | Yea that does work, the bubbles that are a problem tho are not in the clearcoat, they are from the wood. Even if I seal the wood then prime it then paint it, some small pockets in the wood will start to ooze bubbles and before long you have these horrible bumps all over the lure. I used to fight it constantly while using poplar but only see it on occassion now.
jed v.
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| Does anybody know, or have a good idea, of what outfits like Mouldy's, Sennett, Poe's, etc. are using on thier's? I'm looking for a clearcoat that isn't as high-build as etex or devcon...
Thanks. |
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Posts: 1504
Location: Oregon | If you are just looking for something that can be used on plastic baits for personal use I have had good luck with Rustoleum lacquer in a spray can. Use three coats allowing each coat to dry before the next..........dries real quickly, maybe 15 mins, it's a good product.
jed v. |
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Posts: 393
Location: Kawarthas, Ontario | I'm pretty sure that the coating on the Mouldy's is lacquer. Sevral light coats should work and you won't get the high build, but work in a ventilated spaceor you will get the 'high' part - very stinky. Be aware that the ventilation fans should have a spark arrestor if you're working in a small space. The sparks created from the electric motor in the fan could cause explosions from the atomized solvents in the lacquer.
Edited by out2llunge 1/15/2006 7:06 PM
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Posts: 393
Location: Kawarthas, Ontario | Torches do work for getting rid of bubbles and may cause soot marks as theedz155 said, but if you're not careful you can also burn the epoxy and end up with a "flat" spot after it hardens. |
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Posts: 1207
Location: Pigeon Forge TN. | I use, both, brush on and spray on clearcoats depending on the lure and what I am doing to it. I have never used a torch on the e-tex, I blow on it as the dioxide from your breath will do the job too and you don't have to worry about scorching it.. As to drying time, follow the instructions on the bottle to the "T" and the setting and handling time depends on the humidity and temperature of the room. The product was made to do a certain job in a certain way so whatever you do, don't try to rush it and you will get better results.
With E-tex, To ready for the second coat, you can buff with 400 to 600 ( 600 is better) grit but you can also "wipe" the previous coat with plain rubbing alcohol and it will make the surface just soft enough to accept the next coat and provide good bonding. All the other advice sounds good too. |
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