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| ok...i'm planning to replace the bearings on my trailer this weekend.
it doesn't look like it should be very hard to do, but i'm a bit nervous because i've never done it before.
i've got some bad inner seals, so i'm planning to replace the entire shebang.
any advice?
how do i get the hubs off so that i can replace the inner seal?
any special tools needed?
any good websites or other resources that would show it step-by-step?
it's a RangerTrail trailer with standard bearing buddy system.
thanks! |
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Posts: 21
| Lambeau
Go to www.bassboatcentral.com and click on BBC Boards. Then scroll down to Trailers and Towing where there are instructions along with pictures on replacing trailer bearings. If I knew how to place the link on here I would do it for you.........
Changing the bearings is a pretty simple process but kind of messy.
Save the bassboatcentral site on your favorites. It's the most informative sites on boats and related issues that I have found. The only thing that I don't like about it is that there isn't any musky talk on it.
Lots of conversation on ranger boats though.
Ubuck |
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Posts: 1120
Location: West Chester, OH | Replacing the races, as part of the “new bearing drill,” is best done w/a special driver. I know guys who tap them in very carefully w/a punch, but I wouldn’t trust myself to do it.
If your current bearings & races are not pitted, cracked or discolored, you might consider just re-packing them & installing new seals. If your spindles are equipped w/speedi-sleeves, replace them @ any sign of wear. Worn sleeves cause premature seal leakage.
I re-seal & re-pack every season & have replaced speedi-sleeves 2 times but still run original bearings & races on an ’88 Shorelander.
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Posts: 326
Location: Plainfield IL | http://www.bassboatcentral.com/sttipsbb.htm
I have taken many sets of races out of hubs. I have a few screw drivers that I have ground down on a bench grinder and bent so the fit from the back of the hub and tap out the race. Do not use a punch to install the new races. Take your old races and put them on the grinding wheel and grind them down a bit. Stick a screw driver through the middle of the race and let them roll on the wheel. You can use the old race that is ground down to tap the new race in. The old race will fall out of the hub when you are done.
Daryl |
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Posts: 107
Location: milwaukee | Another good tech resource for all things trailer: http://www.championtrailers.com/. Shouldn't need to replace anything more than the seals, but bearings are usually cheap if you want the peace of mind.
I did mine last weekend. My advice:
-get all of your new parts ahead of time if possible. I scrambled around late on a Saturday trying to find new seals with no luck.
-keep the hub bolted to the wheel to remove the inner seal. Grab it and pry with a big ChanneLock pliers, easier than prying with a screwdriver
-get yourself some latex gloves to keep your hands clean
-brake parts cleaner in a spray can is a good cleaning solvent. Using gasoline is dangerous.
-keep everything clean on re-assembly
-might be a no brainer, but be sure to use marine type wheel bearing grease when packing/re-packing the bearings
-finger tight on the locknut when reassembling. I always pre-load (set) on new or old bearings first.
If I wasn't heading out for vacation this weekend I'd come up and help ya. |
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Posts: 30
Location: Woodridge, Ill | And buy the double edged seals for the back of the hubs. Champion Trailers has them. Manufacters generally will put the single edge seals on, their cheaper. The double edge ones give you more protection from water entering and grease leaving the hubs. They will also give you added time should one of the edges fail on you - the grease will not blow out, instead it will leak out slowly , making it visible and it will allow you to get home or where ever you need to go. The double edge seals cost more, but trust me, they are so worth it. |
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| I used wd40 to clean up when I did my bearings last year.It works great and is easy on your hands. |
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Posts: 2091
Location: Stevens Point, WI | A trick I learned for putting the races in much easier is to put them in the freezer for an hour before you put them in. Make sure you put them in a zip-lock bag so they don't get wet. A few microns of shrink makes them slide in real easy. You should check out the Liqua-Lube kits, they are totally awesome and you should never have to replace bearing again. Well worth the money in my opinion. |
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Posts: 333
Location: menasha wi 54952 | All great points guys. I have found that that the easiest thing to do is let someone else do the tricky stuff for you. After you have everything you need, take the hub and your new parts down to a local repair garage and have them press out the old and press in the new. Saves time and aggravation and its done right the first time. You should expect to spend around $20 for both hubs.
Good luck!!!
MR |
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replacing trailer bearings