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| I tried casting with my new abu garcia 6500c3, and it was the first time ive used a baitcaster. what can i do to prevent it from backlashing. |
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Posts: 27
| Tighten up the cast control. Then as you get better you can start loosening it. That is the only advice I can give. Just keep practicing and you will get the hang of it real soon.
Good luck. |
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Posts: 373
Location: Huber Heights, Ohio | The link below is from ABU's site, also your owners manual will have similar info. Use your thumb on the spool to adjust it's speed while casting until you get the hang of it..
http://www.abugarcia.com/tips/results.cfm |
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Posts: 2427
Location: Ft. Wayne Indiana | Keep your thumb on the spool, but very very lightly.
Also, don't cast into the wind, and don't try and make homerun casts.
Keep them simple, you don't have to throw your shoulder out doing it. A simple light cast with a long rod will cast any bait out there far enough. |
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Posts: 32958
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | Start off with a lure that is heavy and floats, too. That way you have less problems adjusting to the reel, and the lure won't foul if you do backlash. Practice, that's the only cure. |
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Posts: 1
| Make sure you are using the white (heavy) centrifical brake blocks. The mid size black and the small blue blocks don't provide enough control for a beginner to prevent backlash. Also try a heavy/viscous oil like 90wt gear lube or STP in the spool bearings and levelwind to slow down the reel. |
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Posts: 1936
Location: Eau Claire, WI | Good advice previously mentioned.. One key as mentioned earlier is not to "over-cast"...let the rod do the work. Smooth is key... Start off with about a 3oz bait and toss with the wind if it's blowing... Try not to get too frustrated... Accurate casts are more important than distance |
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Posts: 1137
Location: Holly, MI | for a while you will call them backlashes.. eventually you will just call them a Professional Over-run.
all the advice so far is good. practice is the key. Cast in the yard for a few hours and work out the bugs there instead of on the water. Remove the hooks from a lure and cast, cast, cast.
one of the biggies is to stop the spool as the lure touches down. If the spool is still running wnen the lure hits the water/grass you will get a nice mess. Have that thumb ready to stop that spool the second it hits. |
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Posts: 373
Location: Huber Heights, Ohio | DO NOT use 90w gear lube or STP in your reel bearings!!!!!!!!!
Use the lube the manufacture says to use or one of the high performance lubes such as Hot Sauce. You will also be fine with the brake collars that came in the reel if you follow the other suggestions. You can also practice casting in your yard or other large grass area, just remember the neigbors may think your a little strange. Use a lure shaped like a giant Jackpot with the hooks removed or cut a 1 inch dowell rod about 6 or 7 inches long, round the ends and put a small screw eye in one end. Paint it a bright color, so you can see it in the air and cast away, this lets you practice anytime you want without wasting time on the water. |
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Posts: 3242
Location: Racine, Wi | Good things mentioned above, but one way to make all that is said a bit easier to understand is this.
Put a bait that is a bit heavier and will cast with little effort. Then tighten the control knob so that when you hit the freespool, the lure doesn't fall. Then with the freespool engaged, slowly loosen the knob until the lure falls to the ground, but when it hits the ground, the spool stops on its own. Then try a few casts. You shouldn't get any backlashes. The distance won't be too far, but you will begin to get the feel of how to cast it. Then as you get comfortable, continue to loosen the knob until you are getting the distance out of your casts that you want, without the backlashes. |
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Location: McHenry, IL | If using a super braid make sure you use a mono leader to the reel then add the super braid or you'll end up with a permenant back lash. |
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| Mark H. is absolutely right. Smoothness is the key. I found that loading and unloading (the bending and unbending of the rod as you apply casting force and relase the lure) the rod smoothly will result in backlash free casts about 99% of the time. A jerky motion will cause the lure to snap the spool into spinning faster than the lure is pulling line. Results: backlash. This problem is much worse using monofilament than with no-stretch lines (the monofilament will act like a spring both slowing the bait and snapping the spool into motion. Set the casting drag (small knob with + and - signs toward the plus until your lure does not fall when you hit the free spool button, back off the casting drag (- direction) until the bait just starts moving then tighten it a little bit (+ direction). Try this a few times then back off on the casting drag a little and try again. You will get to a setting at which you start having an occasional backlash. Tighten the casting drag a little and you'll be set. As you get smoother, you will find that you can back off of the casting drag more and more. Professional anglers seldom use the casting drag but it took them years of practice to cast smoothly enough to get away with that.
Another major cause of backlashes has nothing to do with casting style and is almost always confined to glidebait users. This is the dreaded embedded-line backlash. This occurs when casting heavy baits that offer very little resistance on the retrieve. The cause: the lure is worked back to the boat with gentle rod action with lots of slack line to give the lure a chance to swing resulting in a loosely wrapped spool of line. The next step: cast that puppy into the next county because it weighs 6 oz. and flies like a major league pitch. The setup: The fierce casting force against the weight of the lure causes the outside wraps of line to dig into the loose wraps on the spool which SOMETIMES embeds a wrap under another wrap deeply enough to cause the line to suddenly stop in mid cast. The scenario: a 6 oz. lure is traveling at about 30 mph attached to 50+ lb. test line which is hopelessly tangled on the spool. The result: either a pretty $25+ missle snaps the 50+ lb. test line and is never seen again or the line holds and the $25+ missile takes your $250+ rod and reel out of your hands just out of arms reach from the boat. This has not yet happened to me (whew) but I did manage to launch one of my custom bucktails when I executed a killer snap cast (those will embed line into the spool too) when trying to reach a good looking piece of structure (doh).
You can't do much about the embedded line backlashes (except to hang on to your rod when it happens) but you can certainly work at smooth casting motions and use non-stretch line (make sure you put some double stick tape on the arbor of your spool or use 30+ lb. monofilament backing when you use non-stretch line or you'll wonder why your drag is not working as you keep wrenching that star down until your fingers bleed).
Good luck.
Pilatus |
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| As above, let me try to explain differently. Casting with your arms instead of trying to Whip the lure forword with a motion I would describe as with our wrists. When you Whip it you get a jerky fast move followed by a slowing down and that causes the overrun. So the farther you try to cast the more important it is to use a smooth motion to throw the lure.
Also two other factors. The tighter you have the line wound on your spoon the fewer Professional overruns you get and an overfilled spool will contribute to professional overruns. In the end its practice, practice, Practice and then you just get fewer they do not go completely away.
Watch fishing shows when the host is looking at you talking many times you can see that he is moving his hands on the reel. i.e., taking out a backlash.
Stick with it, soon it will be second nature I mostly get them now when I try to cast a wierd angles and/or as mentioned above casting some types of lures into the wind. The wind stops the lure but nothing stops the spool. That is why folks are telling you to keep a very light thumb pressure. |
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Posts: 20
Location: Indiana | adjust for the weight of your bait the spool should stop when the bait hits the water, then when you make your cast DO NOT load the rod up. when you get to the end of your back cast STOP then go this will help you to not load the rod as much hope this helps |
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Posts: 26
Location: Chanhassen, MN | Some great advice. As Abu-Garcia notes adjusting the mechanical brake is crucial. Adjust the brake to the weight of each lure. The lure should drop appro. 10" when the rod tip is flexed. This helps prevent over run. The other key I've found is to make sure your line is wound tight. Also keep your thumb lightly on the free spool.
Happy hunting.
Dave  |
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Posts: 1769
Location: Algonquin, ILL | Good advice from all but I would add PRACTICE, PRACTICE and then PRACTICE some more you can do this in your back yard just tie on a Casting Plug and go at it
If you get a backlash don't get frustrated even those of us who have been casting forever get one every now and then
Edited by JohnMD 4/5/2005 8:03 AM
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backlash