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Posts: 2378
| I know paint has been talked about a bunch on here, but I dont think this one has been asked.
I am planning on using Createx paints in my airbrush. Do I need to thin these before spraying?
Might try some Cheapo Wal-Mart paint to get me started also. Anybody have any experience with these? |
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Posts: 941
Location: Freedom, WI | Luke - Use it right out of the bottle, it is water based and will clean up with water just fine also. The cheap Walmart stuff might be to thick ( is it craft paint) and you would have to thin it. If it is to thick it will not suck it out of the bottle, you will have to play with it. |
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Posts: 2378
| Thanks Roger!!
Yeah, Wal-Mart stuff is craft paint. Stopped and looked at it tonight. It will need thinning. |
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| Baldy
Make sure you mix the Createx. alot of the pigment settle to the bottom and shaking dosent mix it well. I would recomend reducing you will get better flow. and last you must heat set most waterbase paints. use a heat gun or hair dryer.
hope it helps
Keith |
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Posts: 2378
| Keith not sure what you mean by reducing. Same as thinning I assume?
What do you recommend for thinning? The WalMart paints say you can use water, but would actual thinner work better?
Do you need to heat set after each coat or just once at the end? How long do you suggest with the heat gun?
Thanks -
Luke |
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Posts: 15
| I have heard that the wal-mart paint tend to get clogged a little easier than other paints, so just be aware of that when using these. As long as you don't leave your airbrush sitting with the paint in it for a long period of time you should be fine though. Just try to clean the brush right after your done spraying.
Doug |
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Posts: 17
Location: mn | I suggest avoiding the paints from wally-world and buy createx auto air. Createx auto air doesnt need to be thinned but people thin certain types of auto air as a personal preference. I suggest buying it from a place that sells a volume of paints so you buy fresh stuff. The older paint will give you problems with your airbrush. Dixie art is a good place to buy airbrush & paints. Mix the paint by putting a bebe in the bottle and shake it up. And with Createx clean up is rather easy. |
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Posts: 152
| Createx Autoair is the way to go. The regular Createx is craft and artist paint. Be sure to use a high quality automotive Polyurethane or urethane clear over it. Most of the Createx paints call for a .5mm tip. The paint should be dried in a heat chamber or with a Heat Gun. Dixie is a great place to get the paint. If you don't have a Airbrush, get a dual action and don't waist your money on a cheap no name brush. Later |
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Posts: 938
Location: NeverNever Lake | Since I'm not a production baitmaker, but a one bait at a time painter, I have a little different insight in the matter. I have been using Createx acrylics for years without a hitch. Some spray right, some need thinned. Golden brand acrylics are awesome also. Clean-up is a breeze..
For topcoat epoxy I use Crystal Sheen, but have used Envirotex Lite and Flexcoat high build. I like Crystal Sheen as I sometimes paint a bait at night and fish with it next day. It cures the fastest and hardest..............
For mixing, a tooth polisher from Wallys (5 bucks). Same thing tattoo artists mix colors with...............
A picture paints a thousand words..
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Posts: 389
Location: Corning, Iowa | Raze, how did you get in my shop? My bench looks about the same. I'm a one lure painter also I use Createx, just for the clean up part. If you use warm water, and just household ammonia, it will clean up great. Go to Tackleunderground.com Those guys will teach you everything. Just remember, if you don't like it, wipe if off, and start over. Doug |
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Posts: 46
| Raze,
I noticed a Jake or Grandma in your picture. What type of paint do you use on plastic baits? And what kind of a glossy top coat? I don't want a high-build material over the paint ... something more like a factory paint job would be ideal, even if less durable. Thanks.
John |
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Posts: 280
Location: Pewaukee WI | Raze,
Sweeet!! |
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Posts: 938
Location: NeverNever Lake | 123..,
I do Grannys, Jakes, Sledges, and other plastics the same way with great results. The only real problems I have found are changes in mass and buoyancy. If you let Crystal Sheen set-up for 10 mins before applying, you get a higher build. I have done more Grandmas than anything else so I can say this, complete coverage is a must and it's sometimes hard to get a smooth even finish on the large flat sides......
Thanks Dudes |
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Posts: 46
| So does anybody do Jakes with auto paint, etc. and get a good, thin, factory-style paint job out of it? What about the gloss coat, if necessary? I'd be curious to know what kind of paint people use and tips for application. I honestly don't like the heavy envirotex coating on a lot of baits, especially plastic... Thanks.
John |
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Posts: 941
Location: Freedom, WI | John - If you use a topcoat that takes longer to set (envirotex is one) coat the bait and let it hang. The extra drips off and leaves a thin coat on and you just have to clean up the end with the drips after or while it is drying. I have done this on a few and so far has worked. |
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Posts: 79
Location: michigan | Raze
Where do you get Crystal Sheen. Is it a two part epoxy |
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Posts: 938
Location: NeverNever Lake | Hound, I get mine here.. http://alpineimport.com
Edited by RAZE1 3/4/2005 7:24 AM
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Posts: 4266
| I do all of mine with acrylic enamels. I have to have good ventilation for the fumes, but drying time for me is about 1 minute between coats. I can thin it to the cosistency of water, and it dries as hard as a rock.
I'm obsessive compulsive, I don't have time for drying with lights or heat. Wham, bam, change colors and the first coat is already dry.
When I'm doing 10 lures of the same pattern, by the time I'm done with #10, #1 is ready for coat number 2. I find that I can do much better detail work with the acrylic enamels than I can with water based. I just could never get a consistency that I was happy with.
So many ways to skin a cat, and all just to catch a fish that is as dumb as a rock.
I just love painting lures. There's something special about catching a fish on a lure that you made yourself.
I have heard many good things about the new Auto-Air products.
I'm still sceptical about them, but that's because I'm a stubborn Pollack and if it aint broke, I'm not fixing it.
Beav |
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Posts: 79
Location: michigan | Thanks for the info Raze |
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| Do you thin Createx with water ot thinner? |
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| I'm with you Beav. The waterbase stuff is a pain. drying , clean up etc... I use it fom time to time cool colors cheep.
Knooter
Reduce the Ceatex with Createx reducer or cleaner. This Paint is a must with putting on with thin layers. I heat set about every 4 layers.
Have fun
Keith |
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Posts: 364
Location: Kentucky | I'm just getting into trying to make some better quality stuff. Can you guys recommend a decent airbrush? Badger dual action?
Raze, what's the fancy turning motor your Suick is on? Do I need one of those if I'm gonna paint half dozen baits and use EnviroTex Lite? |
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Posts: 43
Location: Kalamazoo | the last couple of weeks i have been painting some of my lures. I have been using an emamel made by testor corp. The stuff needs to be thined with xylene/xylenol . I have had a blast doing it, but am going to switch over the the Createx. I like the water clean-up and thinning. I'm obsessive compulsive myself, so waiting its going to suck. Can you use an enamel clear topcoat? or a Lacquer clear? The enamels are only like 1/2 or 1/4oz and are gone just like that. I spoke with the people at createx and they were real helpful. Should have asked them what to use for a topcoat. |
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Posts: 29
| Do you use just regular paint or what kind do you use and also how much is a paint sprayer?A cheap one. |
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Posts: 43
Location: Kalamazoo | I bought the sprayer from Walmart and painted my first cutom babtysquiko
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Posts: 43
Location: Kalamazoo | I just bought the cheap testor brand at walmart. good enough for what i do.here is my first one. Its a custom baby squirko
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| Shane
Looks Cool.
You can use most clearcotes with the createx stuff. I use an auto clearcote and it works over createx just fine. test any clear on old lures . remember to heat set the createx it will dry tough as nails.
I also have made some baby squirkos. they are tough to ballance from lure to lure i will be working on them again after the show season. hopefully we can get it right for production
Keith |
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Posts: 46
| Keith,
So on plastic baits like the jerko, you use createx acrylic (properly thinned to consistency of water and heat-set) topped with an auto clear coat? What do you use for a primer and what is a good brand of auto clear to look for? Thanks for the help, man.
John |
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| So Testor brand airbrush is what you guys use? Anyone know about the turning motor question? Everyone uses those, or not needed? |
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Posts: 226
Location: W. PA. | Any of you guys use brushes or compressors from airbrush city? I see they sell alot of that stuff on ebay, but haven't been able to find any reviews about it.
Scott |
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Posts: 152
| I have looked at Airbrush Citie's stuff at their web site and they are no cheaper than Dixie Art. Dixie is where I get a lot of stuff from. They have Createx paints and quality airbrushes. I use Createx Auto paint and use a Paasche VLS Pro. Don't waist money on a cheap brush. Get a dual action and several jars. Any auto urethane or polyurethan will work over Createx for a clear. As was said, you will need a heatgun or heat chamber to cure Createx. They have something like 140 colors. Later, dixieart.com/Airbrushes.html |
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