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| I bought some unpainted 6" Reef Hawg kits from R&H and painted them in some super secret color schemes...but now I have to attach the hook hanging hardware. What`s the trick to getting the long part of the "cotter pin" to lay flat on the back of the bait?
Also, do you use a little epoxy when putting in the nose and tail screw eyes?
And....do they run better with a fixed hook or can I use split rings? I had to cut the hooks out of a fish once and replaced them with hooks on split rings and the bait lost most of it`s side to side glide.....coincidence or different resistance in the water.
Any other tips for assembly would be appreciated. Beav |
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| Beaver,
I've got the same problem. I got a couple kits from R&H and I also got everything painted(special color) and was also wondering how you were suppose to attach the pins that hold the hooks. Any one who has an idea just reply.
Thanks,
BrettC |
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| Would you believe a hammer LOL I saw mike do this to my 12 inchers. He puts the hooks on then bends the cotterpin and a small shot with the hammer contersinks them.[:sun:] |
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| A Hammer....on my new paint job...ugh[:knockout:]
Think maybe I`ll try a punch and gently tap them....til I get PO`d and then I`ll hammer them and repaint the top.
Thanks, Beav |
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| Why not put the pins and screw-ins in BEFORE you paint? I''d mount the screw-ins with some 5-min epoxy just to be safe. Also, Bill Craig has Mike use the Wolverine triple split rings on each and every 10 or 12 incher he gets. I''ve seen Bill''s baits in use, and they have plenty of action. The trick is to soak them WELL before using them. The wood will split and crack a little messing up your pretty paint job BUT, the bait will run much deeper and glide better. We proved this conclusively by running a new unsoaked versus a soaked. The difference in depth and action was almost unbelievable.
Steve Wickens |
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| Thanks for all the help. I'm gonna try the hammer trick! LOL If it messes up my paint job on top, oh well, because of the other topic on this board on why do they paint the top of the lures????
Thanks again,
BrettC |
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| I opted for screw eyes coated with 2-ton epoxy. It`s the same stuff that I use for putting golf clubs together, I think it should be strong enough to hold the screw eye in better. Just tank tested them. I won`t have to soak one of them, it sinks at about a half a foot per second already and darts side to side very nicely. The other one stays up but has good movement. Can`t wait to cristen them. Beav |
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| Hey guys, I did not say to get a 20 oz hammer and give it all you got. LOL Now just a little tap to countersink the cotterpin, you see a punch will only make a mess as you want to hit the entire section of the pin at once and sink it flush to the lure. |
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| It helps a bit if you file the bit of the cotter pin that you are going to hammer into the wood to a point. I also drill a very small hole to guide the pin in. They will all split when you use them, so don't be too precious about the paint job.
Good fishing
Tim |
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| Put a 90 degree bend in the long part of the cotter pin tight on the lure body. Put a 90 degree bend at the end of the cotter pin so it penetrates the body. I use epoxy on the cotter pin and all attachments. Set the bait over a hole drilled in a piece of wood (so the bottom of the pin is in the hole) and tap the cotter pin down into the lure. We do this on our line of Exciter jerk baits.
Dick Moore
Moore's Lures |
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| Dick Moore or others:
The pins have a flat side and a rounded side. Which side goes down against the body of the lure?
By the way, Dick, thanks for the personal service on my recent order- appreciated your call. The components are excellent. |
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| I cut off half of one side of the pin. You only want one side to go all the way through. The round side should be up, facing away from the body. Flat side will be pounded into the lure. Use epoxy cement on this also.
Good luck
Dick Moore
Moore's Lures
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| Thanks you guys. I think I`ll order a few more kits. And Dick, thanks for the epoxy top-coat. Got it today and it works great. Glad I ordered the extra thinner. Beaver |
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| The side of the pin that you cut off and is inside the bait should be bent out a little to "hook" the wood of the lure and further prevent it from coming out. I don't use split rings upon building the lures but use them after cutting hooks, and they do cut down on action on some of them.
Jason Schillinger |
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| Thanks to all of you guys. I`ve got four more kits on the way as we speak. I`ll do a couple things different this time.
Drilling a pilot hole where the pin goes back into the bait is going to be one of them. Sharpening that end of the pin is another. And I have a block of wood with a 1" hole drilled in it for setting the bait on while pounding.
Got some great color ideas too.
Clown
Parrot
And a couple more of my favorite crankbait color schemes.
Thanks again for your help. Beav |
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Reef Hawg....Help from lure builders