|
|
Posts: 346
| After all the negative responses to floro rigs, I still need a material to build quickstrike rigs with. Howie Meyer's rig should work well with another material, so what do you suggest?
Thanks,
MJB | |
| | |
Posts: 3242
Location: Racine, Wi | MJB, If you are afraid of the floro, I would use 7 strand. There are some good rigs out there. I know Kly has a good one made out of 7 strand I believe. I don't know if he'll divulge the secret though.  I personally use the floro and haven't had a problem with it yet. (accept for hooking fish at first, but that was my fault)  | |
| | |
Posts: 354
| Hello,
I made my first quick strike rigs this winter. I used seven strand as well
and I think they are going to work nicely. I fish a lot of heavily wooded
flowages and got tired of losing rigs and paying 5-7 bucks a pop. There
isn't much to them and it's fun making your own stuff.
Bill C. aka the greenduck | |
| | |
Posts: 8
Location: Champlin, MN | I also make my own quick strike rigs and leaders. Pretty simple, and a good projectduring the lunch break at work. | |
| | |
Posts: 3926
| Here's how I make mine, maybe give you some ideas....
For ice fishing for pike.....I use light sevenstrand, forget the poungage but it's only about 12-15#. I use a simple bowline knot to tie on the terminal treble, and thread 2 more trebles on the line. I use snall pieces of shrinkwrap on the shanks of the threaded trebles so they are held very tight to the wire and so I can adjust the distance between the hooks according to the length of the bait. Small baits just get two trebles; very small baits, like a 4" shiner, get a single terminal treble. Another bowline knot ties on a small but high quality swivel. Leaders are all pretty long, at least 24" total. I use somewhat small but very strong wide gap hooks, with short shanks. All hooks are honed needle sharp, so a small tug sets the hook(s), and I play the fish gently. Last, I put a single bright bead and then a decent sized sliding egg sinker above the knot that I use to tie to the rig. No weight on the wire; if the fish is too fiestly I clut half the tail off with a sharp knife. Sometimes I also make a small slice in the meaty part of the bait (2" long, lengthwise, just below the dorsal fin) with a very sharp knife, thinking the smell of blood/juices will help provoke a strike. As soon as the pike's head shows on the hole, I use a very sharp gaff to lift the fish out of the water. IF I ever hooked a biggie, I would carefully gaff the fish in the "chin" so I could release the fish as unharmed as possible. After a pic of course.
I don't use live bait much when musky fishing open water, I hate getting tangled in timber/weeds. But if I did I would just increase the poundage of the wire, maybe to 60#, and do everything else the same. Many guys swear by live bait for 'skis, especially in the fall, and they know LOTS and LOTS more than me about the various techniques.
Just some thoughts to consider. | |
| | |
Posts: 1046
| I make mine with #90 sevenstrand with a bowknot,then haywire twist and then a crimped sleve. These rigs bring in 30' trees when snagged and I have never broke one yet, the equipment will go first.If you use the 60# or 90# the size is very similar but a big difference in strenght. 30"/36" for quickstrikes and 36"/48" for trolling, and no, I am not a beleiver in the floro at all. Gave it a try and it performed badly in the situations that I fish, to me its an expensive waste of money plus its not trustworthy(in my opinion)In no way do I feel I am losing any hitters either. | |
| |
|
Making quickstrike rigs?