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| Hi,
This winter I want to try making some lures. Glide baits to start. Does anybody out there have any advise? Type of wood to use, do's and don'ts, how the heck to make them with through wire design or how to weight them?
I remember reading a similar post and someone suggested a book. I can't remember the name of the book and couldn't find it after searching the archives.
This is for my entertainment only, something to keep me from going insane while the water is hard. I don't want to start a company or mass produce the things.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Brian
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| Hardwoods are glider material, but more difficult to work with than basswood and pine. Weighted properly, pine can be a fine material. Drilling and filling with lead is a learn by doing process, so give it a try.
Screw eyes need to be pre-drilled in hardwoods, and should be in any bait. If you use big eyes, and use JB weld or epoxy when threading them in, thay hold just fine. My old Dog Turd has screw eyes, and has held in a basswood body for nearly 20 years.[:praise:] | |
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| I have bad experiences with pine, mostly because it soaks up water easely when a fish pierced the lacquer which causes the paintjob to crackle and they are hard to paint because of the grains that appear after every coat of white primer. I prefer beech/meranti (beeing a light wood for surface-lures but stronger than pine, but there are differences in density, great differences)/oak/mahogany. For surface-lures, a friend of mine uses abachi-wood. This is used in Sweden for sauna's. If you can get that, use it. It's the stronger brother of balsa-wood but has the same qualities.
These hardwoods are a lot less boyant and need little leading. Great way to get suspenders for crankbaits and divers. For pine I advise you to work with a through-wire frame for better strength. Also, for a better finish use woodsealer before adding the white primer coats. Looks a hell of a lot better that way. Not nessecary but why spend amm the time of trying to make that lure swim right and then apply an ugly paint-job?
I also pre-drill the holes in hardwood but only 5mm deep and with a 3mm drill. Normally the screw-eyes won't be 3mm in diameter (only about 2-2.5mm and this way you get a cup in which you can pour epoxy-glue when you're done. I put the epoxy in the hole and then turn the screw-eye in the body. The epoxy in the cup attaches to the srcew-eye and goes into the wood as I screw it in. This is the way I feel is the best. If you use a cup-washer too, you won't even notice the slightly wider cup because it's hidden underneath the small ring.
Have fun! | |
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| For my many carved pike lures I love cedar for slow, subsurface lures. I haven't had much opportunity to use them on musky yet but they have caught many big pike. Plus cedar is very easy to work with and holds up well if it gets wet underneath.
BrianW | |
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| I agrea, but I don't like it because you need to add wxay too much lead to get it to sink slowly for gliders. But it's hard to find over here in Belgium, would like to use it more because it is easy to shape and shape with sanding paper. | |
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Lure Making