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Posts: 176
| I thought I would call this the Tuffy Bass’n Maurauder refurb 2018, because like many projects it has lasted much longer than initially anticipated. Once fall came around it was time for business. When there was free time fall Musky fishing and hunting took priority, and then it was too cold to work on the boat.
A quick recap found me in August of last summer, noticing, (okay I noticed it probably at least three years earlier), soft floors and wood flaking from the inside of my rod locker, I also noticed the console keep getting loose and when I went to tighten it there was wood falling like paper by the bolts.
I thought I would pull back the carpet and put in some penetrating epoxy…once the carpet was back, I realized I needed to do much more but didn’t admit it to myself yet. I started pulling carpeting, buying lumber, resin, etc. The more I peeled back the worse I found it to be. I started in August and spent quite a few weekends on it, with the help of my friend Dean who has a woodshop and metal shop at his home. (a very good friend to have for a project like this!)
Well here it is 2018. It finally got warm in early March and we got her out of storage. I knew we had to tear the rest of her apart, starting with taking off and unhooking the motor. I thought that was going to be easy, it ended up taking the whole first day. It’s hard for two people to lift a 300lb motor from a boat, and even harder to lay it down and store it. I used a deer hoist and the orange straps you see in the back, but once we had the bolts loose and the motor ready to go we realized we didn’t disconnect any of the lines; gas, electrical, steering etc. man I felt like an idiot!
Another thing we learned is that all the cords and cables are quite unwieldly. Well one day in the books.
Lesson learned #1: Have a friend or a really good chair, preferably both to sit back and go “hmmmmm”, before each step, think it through, think of alternatives, (like fishing from shore), bounce ideas off each other.
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 2018-03-10%2016.04.08_preview[1].jpeg (14KB - 706 downloads)
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2018-03-10%2016.04.27_preview[1].jpeg (14KB - 567 downloads)
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Posts: 176
| Second full weekend day was cutting out the rest of the interior glass, foam and wood, which requires, a grinder, Sawzall, Dremel tool and lots of nerve. The nerve is required to run a grinder at full speed with foggy safety glasses, and a dust mask, mere millimeters away from the hull of your boat you plan to restore!
Lesson #2: take tons of pictures, not to put them up on chat room boards, but to remember how the boat goes back together, it doesn’t come with an instruction manual. The above photos are only a couple of 10s of dozens, along with some video to help me remember things, often I have a tape measure next to a part to remember depth or length as well.
The wood has a resin skin over it that holds everything together, thankfully! Or I would have fallen through the rotted wooden floor, but that also means that you need to get the skin off to remove the rotten wood.
Look at the back transom. The wood just crumbled off, it reminded me of a wasp nest. I always wondered how my 28 year old motor could move the boat 2-3 mph’s faster in its old age than when it was new. I figured it out. The boat weights about 800 pounds new. Each sheet of ¾” plywood when finished is about 60-80lbs. The floor requires three sheets and the transom is two pieces sandwiched together. The side boxes aren’t as heavy, so lets just call it 5 sheets finished at 75lbs each or about 400lbs with stringers etc. As you can see in the back my transom crumbled into the size of a volley ball and I assure you it weighted far less. Essentially my boat had went on a huge diet! And not the good kind.
After the transom, we were able to start taking out the rest of the sides and the foam, We kept the foam as it actually helps us know the measurements of the structures we needed to build.
At this point we started to sand down the wood and resin bumps and tried to get the surfaces clean. That was day two.
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Posts: 320
| Nomad,
Are you gonna gut the entire boat? I ripped my Maurader down to the stringers & built it all new from there. Had it out last weekend and had some nice comments from some buddies. It's not gonna win a beauty contests but it fishes great. Plus having a rod locker that will store rods to 9-6 is real nice. Keep at it!!!!!! | |
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Posts: 176
| Todd,
Yes I did rip it down to the glass. I'd love to see a photo of yours and how you did your rod locker. Is it a tiller or console?
Nomad | |
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Posts: 320
| It's a tiller. I think I measured the rod locker at 9-8. The longest rod I carry is a nine and it fits easily. I'll try to take some more pics once winter finally leaves us. Take care.......TC | |
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Posts: 9
| Just got new paint on mine, a lot of work but turned out awesome.
Edited by Wisrivermuskieman 4/7/2018 5:56 PM
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B0CA656B-1B7B-4EA5-BE83-41A1370527E3.jpeg (106KB - 530 downloads)
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Posts: 176
| Wow,
Your boat turned out really good. I like the white on gray with the nice rims. What type of paint did you use? | |
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Posts: 9
| It’s just automotive primer gray, with one coat of clear with flake and one coat just clear over that. Not sure of the brand paint but automotive. We shot the bottom with single stage black. | |
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Posts: 176
| It looks really good on the photo! Good job! | |
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Posts: 9
| Thanks, I bought the boat last fall for a horsepower restricted bass series on the Mississippi River. The boat has had 30 plus years of wear and tare and had a lot of stress cracks hence a lot of grinding and glass work but in the end it was worth it, the old motor runs strong and the interior is solid and the boat rides so nice.
Good luck with your build.
Edited by Wisrivermuskieman 4/8/2018 8:32 PM
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Posts: 176
| Wisrivermusky,
Talk to me about the stress cracks: How did you find them? How did you repair them? | |
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Posts: 9
| stress cracks on my boat we’re easy to find since it was white, they were from years of bad drivers. There simply cracks in the gel coat if you only have a few you can groove out the crack with a die grinder and use fiberglass filler to fill them in and sand them down, if you have lots like I did your best bet is to grind out a large area down to the glass and put a layer of resin and mat over then fiberglass filler over that and sand it down smooth again. Some of the cracks looked like spider webs or bullseyes where they hit a blunt object when we ground those out some were actually soft underneath the gel. Remember most cracks are only cosmetic and most don’t leak there was a few on the bottom that we didn’t fix some were just to hard to get at and not worth the effort. I’ll try to post more pics
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0852EBCF-E1A2-42E0-A012-AEE29AC9B90E.jpeg (169KB - 466 downloads)
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Posts: 176
| WI River,
That was some good information and good photo's thank you.
While I'm at it I have to ask about your trailer fenders and trailer steps. Mine have rusted and the wood has rotted there as well. Did you do anything to yours?
Nomad | |
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Posts: 73
Location: Cedarburg, WI | Looks beautiful. Fine job! | |
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Posts: 9
| As far as for the trailer we just sanded off the surface rust with DA sanders and panted it with a paint called chassis saver (brushed it on) it’s a ceramic epoxy paint I believe but the stuff is good don’t get it on anything you don’t want it on including your skin practically have to wear it off. For the trailer steps mine were rotten also so I cut new out of 3/4 inch treated plywood and wrapped them with indoor/outdoor carpet but haven’t had time to put them on yet. | |
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Posts: 320
| Nomad,
Before you start glassing over your plywood remember to coat all the wood with resin first. You want the resin to soak into the wood real good before you begin glassing. If you don't do this, the wood will pull the resin out of the glass and you could end up with delamination issues down the road. Be real liberal with the resin on end grains as they really soak up the resin. Looking forward to you progress. Take care ........TC | |
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Posts: 176
| ToddC,
You bring up a great point! I was aware of this, when I did my floor boards, it was amazing after the first coat it was almost like nothing went on compared to the 2nd and 3rd coats, especially the ends, because they act like straws. I will try to post some pictures of that, although I've been having issues posting pictures here.
On my Transom I'm hoping I have warm enough weather tomorrow that I can work early and late in my office and get some of my first coats on mid day. The weather has been horrible for the last 3-4 weeks.
The picture titled West decking was last fall after two coats, the other photo is this spring after two more coats were applied. You can see and feel the difference, on the end grain, you could finally see the holes and crevices filling up. On my transom I will first sand, wash with soap and water, then acetone before I fill the holes and cracks that there were air pockets in the first build that left large void of product, I have a tool that will run it smooth almost like a drywall knife, (kind of like filling drywall holes with spackle, before painting them). Then I will start the epoxy process with 2 or three coats before I actually apply the glass cloth and wet it in.
I figure I know manufacturers can't afford to put that type of time in and I don't blame them, but for me it's worth the time and effort. I know with 100% confidence that my boat will be rock solid, (hopefully not as heavy as a rock) and built exactly to my liking. There will be pride in this ride when I'm finished with the refurb. I know I will be looking to be adding to my "fleet" like BNelson has. This will be my; one man boat, my two man quick trip boat, my small lake, river or flowage boat and a little in between. My main fishing partner has a 620 for big water and eye candy, and I have three canoes to get places neither of these can get. I do plan to add a 1760 to the fleet to fit in between the refurb and the 620.
My limitation is my garage and drive way. I'm truly limited to only about 9-12"s more than I have now, and it's on a sharp short 90 degree turn so it needs to be a single axle. I've told my wife we need a new house with a three car wide two car deep garage, but she's not onboard with that yet, nor do I think she ever will be. I know that was a longer response and I got long winded, but I hope it helps.
Nomad
Edited by Nomadmusky 4/10/2018 12:27 PM
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2018-03-18%2014.09.14_preview[1].jpeg (14KB - 354 downloads)
West decking.jpg (150KB - 357 downloads)
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Posts: 320
| WIRiver,
Looks nice! I need to get my hull cleaned up still. It's never gonna be a show winner so I'm not too worried. Right now I just want to get her on the water and fish! Take care & nice job! TC | |
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Posts: 176
| Here we go!!! I finally got a day warm, (almost warm enough, but I did it anyway) to get back to work on the Tuffy.
Friday it got warm enough so I started wetting in the two laminated pieces of 3/4" ply with the West epoxy system. It is supposed to be 60 degrees to work, but I figured Mid 50's with snow melting fast was warm enough this spring.
First I disconnected my dry fit transom that we laminated about a month ago, second I did one final sanding on the inside of the back transom glass, vacuumed, then washed with soap and water and finally acetoned it before wetting in a coating of West System epoxy resin, before I fill in the air gaps that were there to make it smooth to sandwich the newly fabricated transom laminate on.
You can tell by the snow that I was not putting the first epoxy coat on in ideal conditions, but the season is just around the corner so I have to push the envelope. I wetted in the first flat surface and then went around all the edges. I put it in the garage over night and it was still very sticky. I put it back out in the sun and it hardened up pretty fast Saturday afternoon.
Saturday afternoon I flipped the newly build transom laminate over and wetted it in and did the edges again, later in the afternoon I glassed over the over drilled holes, (drilled larger than needed), I did that so tomorrow I can fill them with epoxy resin, so later I can drill them out to the proper size and not have them suck in moisture through the wood grain. You can see the series of photos adding the glass and wetting it in.
I also wetted resin over all the screw holes on the floor and also wetted in the seams on the floor several times. I will sand it down and add glass tomorrow hopefully.
I also ran epoxy over the full back of the glass on the transom one more time.
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2018-04-20%2017.21.53_preview.jpeg (140KB - 419 downloads)
2018-04-21%2016.10.43_preview.jpeg (149KB - 491 downloads)
2018-04-21%2017.03.24_preview.jpeg (149KB - 386 downloads)
2018-04-21%2017.03.29_preview.jpeg (149KB - 390 downloads)
2018-04-21%2017.03.51_preview.jpeg (146KB - 389 downloads)
2018-04-21%2017.19.53_preview.jpeg (182KB - 365 downloads)
2018-04-21%2017.20.01_preview.jpeg (167KB - 408 downloads)
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Posts: 320
| Nomad,
Looking good! Keep after it and you will have it done in no time! Take care......TC | |
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Posts: 176
| Well all the tedious prep work was done, the boards were glued up, wetted in, sanded, holes drilled oversized, sanded, 2nd coat, sanded, 3rd coat, sanded, dry fitted, refitted to adjust and last night we had the weather to put it in.
It's a great feeling because everything starts with the stringers, which we had done, then the floor back to the transom, but now the big work can get done, before it was tedious "invisible" work.
We had it planned out. We used the West system epoxy and I used the 205 Fast dry hardener for this because we would be in the 40-60 temperature range. We ran 3 equal batches of 15 pumps of epoxy with 15 pumps of hardener, stirred for at least a minute and then added 4 "cups" of silica to get the consistency I wanted, actually the cap of a spray paint can, but it's been the common measuring device I've been using for all my projects. I added them one at a time but there are no pictures because I had gloves on with epoxy all over. You add the silica one at a time and stir it in. WEAR A GOOD MASK! That stuff is ultra light weight and blows all over. We got the good disposable respirators. You need to stir the silica in one cup at a time because it's so powdery its hard to get a blend, by the 3rd and 4th it's much easier.
Then we had saw horses in place with the transom, and I spackled it on like doing a tile floor, I bought both a yellow spreading knife and a red one, one was six inches wide the other about 9". It was probably at least an 1/8" thick on the transom. You could stand the stir stick up in the pot and it would stand there without sagging so the mixture wouldn't run. We needed two of us to make this happen because the stirring and mixing process takes about 10 minutes a batch and you want to be spreading it before it dries up.
We fitted it in, we had the clamps and 2x4's we were using to press it in place all layed out. We fitted it in, clamped it in and started adjusting the placement. We also were happy because we got a pretty even "ozzz" of product out of the sides with no air holes when we clamped it. We did chase and reclamp areas to get more ozzz. We screwed down a couple of 2x2's to the floor and pressed in 4 2x4's to get pressure on the bottom where we couldn't clamp. I stood on them to get pressure then we clamped them in from the top to keep the pressure. By standing on them I could put a bow in the board that added spring pressure back to the transom.
Here are the pictures:
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2018-04-25%2018.18.08_preview.jpeg (128KB - 410 downloads)
2018-04-25%2017.53.09_preview.jpeg (143KB - 395 downloads)
2018-04-25%2017.53.02_preview.jpeg (154KB - 497 downloads)
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Posts: 320
| Pretty much how I did my transom too. I also screwed a couple 2x4s on the outside of the transom thru the motor mount holes & drain holes into the new transom to pull it tight. Then I filled in the motor mount holes with a filler made with glass millings & epoxy. That filler makes a strong bond. I used that mixture in my transom corners with several layers of glass. She ain’t moving! Way more transom that is needed for my little Merc 9.9 four stroke! Looking good brother! | |
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Posts: 176
| Todd,
Thanks, it's good to hear how others did it as well. This weekend will be all the finish glass work on the transom, all the final floor work and feathering it in to the existing hull.
I also am replacing all my pumps for the livewell and bilge this weekend. Then it is building the boxes for the floatation, rear casting deck and seating as well as the splash well.
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Posts: 228
| Looks like you did a great job! Good luck with the "new" boat! | |
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Posts: 176
| Well most of the boxes for the back and rod locker are cut, now it is time to wet them in with a couple of coats of epoxy resin. I may have it ready to add the rear splash well, rear casting deck and seating area next week. Fishing will take up some time now, but that's okay. I simply don't want to stall out though either. | |
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Posts: 176
| Well most of the boxes for the back and rod locker are cut, now it is time to wet them in with a couple of coats of epoxy resin. I may have it ready to add the rear splash well, rear casting deck and seating area next week. Fishing will take up some time now, but that's okay. I simply don't want to stall out though either.
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rear boxes.jpg (151KB - 348 downloads)
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Posts: 176
| Here are some updates from the last month:
1. The rear splash well has been build, epoxied, and glassed in,
2. The rear deck lid was rebuilt using 3/4" plywood, biscuits and lots of measurements, glassed up and ready to install, it actually weights less than the glass one that the boat had. I replaced it because the original glass deck sagged and had a little trampoline feel to it. The new one is solid as a dance floor and built like heirloom furniture.
3. The front of the rear deck was rebuilt, I shrunk it down by 5" because it was wasted space the way I used it and it gives me more leg room when I drive.
4. The seat decks were rebuilt. I was able to extend them a couple inches to give more leg room, (see the previous 5 inches gained, and was able to place a glove box in for wallets, phones, etc...) All of this again was built with 3/4" ply, biscuits and wood glue, then 3 coats of West System Epoxy to encapsulate it from water and also add more firmness to it.
I'm looking at flooring next and a new player has entered the foam flooring mix called aquatractioncom made in St. Cloud, MN Check them out and let me know what you think. I know some guys who have used it and say that it's their preferred foam flooring. I'm doing my research now. Theirs is 6mm and PE so it's a little more durable and comfortable.
I'm also getting ready to put on the new rub rail in front along with the new gunnel caps, and transom caps, as well as the transom corners. I was able to talk to the new owner at Tuffy and he is helping me get these supplies. He seems to be very enthusiastic and helpful about having the Tuffy brand. I look forward to what he will do with the Tuffy brand. It will be hard to replace Steve Worrall as the face of Tuffy after 3 decades, Steve has always been a friend and great resource!
I was trying to find a new console but that is proving to be a futile effort, any new ones are too big, and I'm not up to fabricating a new one yet either. I think I'm going to refurb the one I have for the time being.
Scott the new owner is also looking for new boat lettering etc. The old Bass'N Maurader images are gone so it looks like I'll be going with ESOX LTD which is available, but I think I'm going to add: Custom by Kevin, below and to the right of it when I apply it.
Finally, I'm still looking at motors, (actually trying to convince my wife I need a new one)
Here are some photos:
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2018-06-03%2018.52.37_preview[1].jpeg (140KB - 413 downloads)
2018-06-03%2018.53.01_preview[1].jpeg (129KB - 407 downloads)
2018-06-05%2009.40.43_preview[1].jpeg (129KB - 426 downloads)
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Posts: 73
Location: Cedarburg, WI | That looks great! Fine job. | |
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Posts: 32886
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | Looking good, Kevin! | |
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Posts: 176
| Thanks Steve, Hey Steve, why do my photos sometimes show up and others have what appears to simply be a download link? | |
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Posts: 32886
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | Make sure they all are .jpg images resized to 640X480 with a simple title. | |
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Posts: 176
| Well folks, IT IS FINISHED!
I revealed my finished boat to my family and friends Tuesday night. My daughter took pictures and I will post them tomorrow, but will put a couple sneak peaks tonight.
It came out far better than I ever imagined. I started the project August 8th of last year and revealed it August 7th it was finished, so exactly one year!
I'm going to try to do some before and after pictures and will be happy to answer questions as well.
This was a very worthwhile project and my boat for all intents and purposes is a new boat, new trailer, (the fender colors will be changed to the color of the bottom metal flake on my boat), with the same old trusty motor for now.
There were several people who helped, Dean, my brother Mark, Steve Worrall, long time friend and Tuffy boat ICON, Scott the new owner of Tuffy Boats, Tom and his staff at West Marine and others. Dean Winger in the picture with me was there from the start and I appreciate the countless hours of time, the shop tools that I didn't have, as well as the detailed woodworking skills, he possesses. Thanks Dean Winger I couldn't have done it without you! I also would be remiss if I didn't thank my family for letting me take over the garage as my boat rebuilding workshop for the duration of the project.
It is now an ESOX LTD, which is a truer reflection of how I fish, but it will always have the roots of a Bass'N Maurauder to me.
I will post some pictures and put a more detailed before and after in coming days.
Nomad
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2018-03-10%2016.04.08_preview[1].jpeg (14KB - 383 downloads)
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Posts: 176
| With the help of Steve Worrall, here are some of the photos!
Thanks Steve.
(West Marine, before and after inset.jpg)
(Starboard full view.jpg)
(starboard front deck.jpg)
(Port Cross sections.jpg)
(front starboard back.jpg)
(2018-03-10%2016.04.08_preview[1].jpg)
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West Marine, before and after inset.jpg (353KB - 407 downloads)
Starboard full view.jpg (315KB - 389 downloads)
starboard front deck.jpg (314KB - 392 downloads)
starboard console.jpg (286KB - 333 downloads)
Port Cross sections.jpg (1084KB - 400 downloads)
On the water.jpg (309KB - 339 downloads)
front starboard back.jpg (306KB - 409 downloads)
console and gages.jpg (252KB - 337 downloads)
camand center.jpg (261KB - 343 downloads)
2018-03-10%2016.04.08_preview[1].jpg (34KB - 402 downloads)
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Posts: 73
Location: Cedarburg, WI | Wow! That looks awesome. | |
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Posts: 176
| Thank you, it turned out better than I had envisioned. | |
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Posts: 4269
Location: Ashland WI | Wow!!
Very well done. | |
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Posts: 264
| Great work.
She's a beauty. | |
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Posts: 320
| Nomad,
Very, very nice job!!!! Looks so good it will almost be a pity getting her slimed! The carpet looks like factory or maybe even better! Just an awesome job! Something to fish out of for years to come and be proud of.
Now it’s time to relax and fish out of her! Good luck!!!! TC | |
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Posts: 176
| Thanks TC.
I was lucky to find a great buy on carpet at Kendor Marine in Milwaukee, and my brother's been installing carpet for the better part of 3 decades.
I plan on fishing hard the rest of the season now.
Nomad
Edited by Nomadmusky 8/9/2018 6:07 PM
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Posts: 228
| Looks GREAT! Very nice job!! | |
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Posts: 13
Location: Orwell, Oh | Very nice work man! Enjoy your time in it with a ROD in hand! | |
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Posts: 1209
| Nice work! | |
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