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Posts: 154
| I'm coming next from bass fishing and they say to set your tension to were the lure slowly falls, am I suppose to do that with Muskie fishing as well? Also I set my breaks to were I want them/ feel comfortable with and set my drag all the way tight? |
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Location: Grand Rapids, MI | Depends on the reel. On a reel with brakes I prefer to have all of the brakes engaged and the spool tension just tight enough so that it doesn't slide side to side. I set the spool tension the same on a reel with magnetic control an generally the setting on the dial somewhere near the middle. With them set like this I can hand the reel to anyone and as long as they're casting correctly, they will be able to fish backlash free and will only need to thumb the spool when they have to stop the lure because they cast too far. As far as drag setting it depends on the reel and how much drag pressure is available. I fish all Daiwa Lexa's and with 22-25# of available drag they're only set to about 3/4. On a reel like the Calcutta D that would be completely locked down. A little slip with long rods and superlines is a good thing and you won't have to mess with the drag setting when you hook a fish. |
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Posts: 983
| I agree with will...with brakes set correct dont have to worry about backlast but just adjust tensioner slightly as needed with lure change |
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Posts: 1716
Location: Mt. Zion, IL | Will Schultz - 6/2/2017 8:26 AM
Depends on the reel. On a reel with brakes I prefer to have all of the brakes engaged and the spool tension just tight enough so that it doesn't slide side to side.
^^^This! Use more of the reel's centrifugal brakes and minimize the friction. This will not only backlash less, but allow you to cast further. I know more brakes sounds like it would limit the casting distance, but centrifugal brakes are only utilized during the first "shock" phase of the cast. Braking force is higher during this time to prevent loops from forming and allows the bait to take line as needed. It is more precise than a calibrated thumb. I do not use reels with only magnets. I cannot stand to use them and have converted nearly everyone I fish with as well.
I also use the drag to let fish take line. Something has to give and I do not want it to be the knot, split rings, or tear the fish's mouth. Stiff rods, braided line, and locked drag do not allow that. Loosen up the drag and use your thumb as needed and for EVERY hookset. This alone is why I NEVER use the foregrip when fishing. I like to have any fish over 40" be able to take some line. You will develop a feel for what is right for you. Locked drag is hard on gears, AR bearings, and the reel frame. |
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Posts: 1209
| Do not tighten the spool tension any where close to letting a lure drop slowly. It will burn the spool shaft rite through the side plate. Just take the left right slop of the spool out, maybe a click or two more. The rest is a smoother cast/less wrist and internal brakes/ magnetic break. |
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Posts: 154
| I also have a lexa, so from what I heard I set my magnetic breaks halfway, drag 3/4 and my tension to were when I go free spool the lures falls fast? |
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Posts: 8781
| If you can move the spool back and forth at all, it's too loose, and the knob will fall off. I've never found a reason to tighten the cast control any more than that. As for the drag? Locked down tight is what everyone always said. That's what I thought until a few larger fish made one more run with only a few feet of line out. Hmph. Maybe you should let the drag do what it was designed to do... |
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Location: Grand Rapids, MI | MNFisherman - 6/2/2017 4:19 PM I also have a lexa, so from what I heard I set my magnetic breaks halfway, drag 3/4 and my tension to were when I go free spool the lures falls fast? Yes with the exception that 3/4 was a guess so I just checked a rod with the drag set to how I like to have it feel. Straight off the reel with no additional drag from the line guides it's set at eight pounds. |
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Posts: 109
| Less fatigue and less backlashes with no breaks, no magnetics, just enough adjustment on the right side knob so no left / right slop. Use your thumb as the break if needed. This way the spool is completely free and no backlashes if a rod is used that will load with the chosen bait and your thumb gets educated. Can't do this if you only use one rod, like an XXHeavy rod, to throw small/light baits.
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Posts: 841
Location: Southwest PA | I'd have to agree with some here as I never have the brakes on with my reels. I have the tension knob tightened just enough to stop the side to side wobble. I use my thumb and my thumb only and I rarely backlash. Just my $.02. |
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Posts: 154
| What do you guys mean by the side to side wobble? I'm understanding the drag and breaks but not the tension knob |
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| The tension knob simply applies pressure on one end of the spool's axle. If it's really loose, you can feel the play by wiggling the spool axially. When the tension knob is adjusted "properly", there's no axial play and little-to-no drag on the spool's rotation from the tension knob. If it's too tight, it hinders the spool's rotation too much.
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Posts: 841
Location: Southwest PA | ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
What he said! |
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Posts: 8781
| If you loosen the cast control knob all the way, it will allow the spool to rock back and forth (left to right) on the spool shaft. (Learned this from a bunch of saltwater guys down in FL) Ideally, you should be able to grab the spool and have no left to right play on the shaft whatsoever. That would be your "ideal" setting. Farting around with centrifugal weights, to me, is a waste of time. You're likely throwing a variety of lures with a variety of weights and wind resistance, etc. "dialed in perfect" with this-or-that lure is great if you want nineteen combos in the boat. Otherwise, it's a matter of "set it where you can cast comfortably, get the lure exactly where you want it, and not have to deal with backlashes. EVER..."
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Posts: 154
| Ok so wen I put my thumb on the spool is the wobbling me able to move the spool left and right? And I tighten to were that just stops, even though the lure drops really fast? |
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Posts: 1144
Location: Minnesota. | MNFisherman - 6/2/2017 7:43 PM
Ok so wen I put my thumb on the spool is the wobbling me able to move the spool left and right? And I tighten to were that just stops, even though the lure drops really fast?
This is what's worked for me for around 35 yrs.
Reel up to close to your leader and very gently undo that knurled knob until your bait falls slowly to the water. Reel in and test, making VERY tiny adjustments as needed. This is with wooden baits. Adjust to suit.
With baits that absorb water like bucktails, soak em first and do the same thing...
If you have a decent reel (mine are Shimano Calcutta 400 TE's) you basically don't need to readjust when changing baits unless you have a major weight differential. You can adjust as needed after a few casts. Too tight and get less distance, too loose and you risk backlashes.
I rarely, rarely get backlashes (got 3 all last year which was abnormal) and can reach out a good ways for a days fishing. And I'm a scrawny boy...!!!...
Simple! |
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Posts: 109
| MNFisherman - 6/2/2017 7:43 PM
Ok so wen I put my thumb on the spool is the wobbling me able to move the spool left and right? And I tighten to were that just stops, even though the lure drops really fast?
That is it exactly. Backlashes are caused by the spool revolving faster than the lure is pulling the line out. You need the lure to move fast to keep up with the fast revolving spool. All the breaks and tension adjustments are made to slow the spool down, which makes it more of an effort to cast.
When you have a tension free spool, you have to have your thumb on the spool extremely light. After a few casts feathering with your thumb will become subconscious. You will always need to lightly tap the spool as, or right before, your lure hits the water. Like others have said typical week on lake of the woods, 12 hours a day, no backlashes. |
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Posts: 109
| A member at a muskies inc meeting about 35 years ago did a seminar on cleaning the old garcia reels. First thing he did after getting the reel apart was remove both breaks and threw them away. He cleaned, lubed, and re-assembled the reel. Adjusted to just remove the left to right wobble. Then he proclaimed - now this reel is ready to use! |
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Posts: 154
| Alright thanks guys! |
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Reel Settings