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Posts: 462
Location: Syracuse, Indiana | I have a 17' Stratos with a 115 Evinrude. As I have accumulated more stuff and my kids have gotten bigger, my hole shot has progressively worsened. Top end is not a problem. I have an aluminum 12 3/4" x 21" prop. Will a stainless prop with a lower pitch (like 19") likely help my hole shot? Thanks in advance. | |
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Posts: 44
| A 21 Raker might help your situation because the prop is vented and helps spin the prop faster as it's coming out of the hole. If your running that aluminum at 5500 to 5600 rpm's you might try a 19 though. Go to an on the water dealer and see if he will let you demo a couple different props. A Raker is a very efficient prop on that 115. | |
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Posts: 462
Location: Syracuse, Indiana | Thanks. I have a 19 that I can demo. If that doesn't work, I'll try the Raker. | |
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Posts: 167
Location: IL | Ask that question over on BassBoatCentral.com lots of nice guys there that are willing to help you. | |
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Posts: 172
Location: Chagrin Falls, Ohio | Need more info. What kind of Evinrude? RPM's? What type of prop, and 3 blade or 4 blade? Jackplate? If not how high is the engine mounted? Water pressure if you have a gauge? Top speed at WOT? Even without that info, going to stainless will make a difference. If you are carrying a big load for the hull, I would look into a 4 blade prop. With more info I might be able to give you some ideas. Good fishin', Tyler | |
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Posts: 462
Location: Syracuse, Indiana | 1997 Evinrude Intruder 115 with a stock aluminum 12 3/4" x 21" 3-blade prop pulls 5500 rpm and 44 mph at WOT. Water pressure gage reads 35 lbs. + at WOT, engine is mounted in the stock transom holes (no jack plate). Thanks. | |
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Posts: 172
Location: Chagrin Falls, Ohio | Hey Dcates, First, you have to raise you're engine. If you're seeing that kind of water pressure at WOT, then you are way too deep. I'd think about maybe raising two holes to start, and then experiment. If you can swing it, you might want to get a manual jack plate. It will be worth it in the long run. If you don't want to go that way, you may be able to raise three holes without dropping you're water pressure below 15 psi or so. You also have to go stainless. As far as prop selection, when you raise you're motor, any advice I give you now will be worthless. What model boat is it? One thing to look forward to is you're going to see some huge performance increases. It will take some time and labor, but it will be worth it. Most of us like to go fast, as I do, but the side benefit is that speed is a result of efficiency. That translates into money saved on gas and oil, which can be substantial over the course of a few seasons and offset the initial investment, that is of course if you're not running WOT all the time...
Edited by Tyler Campbell 6/2/2003 11:50 AM
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Posts: 44
| I had a 1995 Ranger 681 Fisherman with the same engine. Both boats are probably very simular in weight and hull design (both are v hulls with a pad). I ran a 19 Raker @ 5600 rpm's and 52-54 mph(GPS). My engine was up one hole on the transom. You can run your motor higher with a stainless, because they get a better bite than aluminum and have less flex. A jack plate moves your prop back into "cleaner water" with less turbulance and with a 115 on a multi species hull would not give you enough bang for your buck. A Raker is vented which will make a huge difference in your hole shot. Most of the times when we are fishing we only run our boats a couple of miles and shut down and fish again. Unless you are fishing tournaments and run very long distances you can spend a lot of money to gain 2-3 mph. If you don't want to spend very much money at all, just take your 21 and drill 3 holes about a 1/4" in diameter in each blade and see the difference in hole shot. This will not increase your top end though. | |
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Posts: 3480
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | I would advise NOT to drill holes into your prop fins. If you are off a little, you upset the balance of the prop which will cause vibration, and, over time will rip apart your lower unit gearing. And if I remember correclty, any hole in a prop fin will only increase drag since water can continually pass through the fin. I have never seen a prop with holes in the fins....
Also, if you are looking to "vent" your prop, the holes at the base of the prop (closest to lower unit) but on the hub itself. This way, you are not creating a drag point where water can pass through the blade while you are zippin down the lake. By venting on the hub, you introduce exhaust gasses to the prop fins to increase RPMs and to get you on plane faster. When you are above mid range, the exhaust gasses will be moving too fast to exit the vent hole, thus eliminating the exhaust gasses getting to the prop fins. Then you keep your speed, but increase hole shot.
The downside of this, though is if you are in rough waves and cannot travel fast enough to get exhaust gasses moving past the holes. When travelling slow enough, exhaust will always escape through the vent holes, and when you need the prop to "bite" the best, it may not due to to increased ventilation of the blades.
In my honest opinion, you can raise your motor a hole or two off the transom, and stay with the prop you had, unless your RPM's are too high...if that is the case, get a cupped prop, which will increase bite, and lower RPM.
Optimizing is fun if you enjoy the time it takes, but when you get the right combination for your rig, you will love the way your boat performs.
Steve | |
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Posts: 44
| www.bogerprops.com
This guy is the best prop man in the country and wil answer any questions you have. I sent my props to him to be tuned to my boats and he can really make a difference. This is the best guy to ask any questions concerning jack plates, engine heights, props or any other performance questions you may have. He used to charge $190 to rework a prop, however he doesn't "tune" props that have been reworked before in a hack shop. When he is done with your prop you will think you have just gotten a new boat! | |
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Posts: 172
Location: Chagrin Falls, Ohio | I agree with bassin', call Boger. But don't drill holes in you're prop. The jackplate also doesn't necessarily mean setback. There are very cheap manual plates that you can get to really dial in more performance. Whether or not you go with setback is up to you, and whether or not it will increase or decrease performance. More isn't always better. Tyler | |
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