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Posts: 18
| I have 2 hds lowrances in my boat, when I shut off my motor and restart it they have to reboot. What would be the likely culprits? Bad ground? |
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Posts: 437
| Your HDS units are obviously being powered by the cranking battery. When you try and start your motor the amperage drops which HDS units are sensitive to that to protect themselves so they turn off.
How to resolve? Cheapest -- run a dedicated red and black wire all the way back to the battery instead of using the "factory" wiring at the mounting location. This sometimes cures the problem, but not always.
Install larger battery would be the next best, but be sure to replace with a "dual purpose" and not a "cranking" or starting battery.
Best alternative would be to have a dedicated battery just for electronics. This way you should never have to worry about draining it down too much and not have your outboard start. In this scenario you will have to figure out a way to charge the additional battery either by using the outboard's alternator capacity as well as an onboard charger with an additional bank. |
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Posts: 18
| Thanks, right now they are wired into the boats fuse block. It will be easy to change to direct wiring. That will be my first action. |
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Posts: 925
| I used to have the same problem. Get the biggest dual purpose battery you can fit in the compartment and you will be fine. No need to change the wiring.
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Posts: 537
Location: Gilberts IL/Rhinelander WI | MuskyMidget - 9/17/2015 3:21 PM
I used to have the same problem. Get the biggest dual purpose battery you can fit in the compartment and you will be fine. No need to change the wiring.
This, I had the same deal going on. Installed a bigger battery, problem solved. It also adds a little peace of mind. |
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Posts: 43
| FYI...If you run the wires directly to the battery, be sure in install an in-line fuse to protect your electronics. |
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Location: 31 | MuskyMidget - 9/17/2015 3:21 PM
I used to have the same problem. Get the biggest dual purpose battery you can fit in the compartment and you will be fine. No need to change the wiring.
I think the state of the battery/wires is an unknown… this is solid advise if units have been in the boat for a while. However, if it’s easy to run a new line what would be better in the long run IMHO.
If the problem happens again then you know you need a new battery... my thinking is wire (with fuse) is cheaper way to address the problem.
Edited by Jerry Newman 9/17/2015 7:59 PM
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Posts: 16632
Location: The desert | Jerry Newman - 9/17/2015 7:58 PM
MuskyMidget - 9/17/2015 3:21 PM
I used to have the same problem. Get the biggest dual purpose battery you can fit in the compartment and you will be fine. No need to change the wiring.
I think the state of the battery/wires is an unknown… this is solid advise if units have been in the boat for a while. However, if it’s easy to run a new line what would be better in the long run IMHO.
If the problem happens again then you know you need a new battery... my thinking is wire (with fuse ) is cheaper way to address the problem.
Maybe, but a battery is way easier. 5 minutes vs who knows. |
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| Make sure that the connections are fully tight and plugged in to the back of the unit. My in-dash bird was doing that as well. I found that the plugs were slightly loose. Used the screwdriver to tighten back up and the problem went away. Good luck. |
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Posts: 99
| Most common issues I have read about.
Bad battery, too small of battery, loose or corroded connections, wire too small feeding fuse block causing a drop in voltage. I would start with wiring and/or testing voltage before spending $150 on a new battery. New wires to my fuse block is on my winter project list lol. |
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Posts: 36
Location: Stone Lk Wi | Start simple, clean battery posts and connections from the outboard and to the fuse block. I'm not sure about the hds but all the electronics I have shut down when the voltage drops below 10v. Look for the voltage drop at the battery then move on to the fuse block. Checking for coorosion as you go, dielectric grease at all of your connections is a good idea too. |
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Posts: 16
| Had that problem before. I put in new graphs but ran them to a separate fuse panel instead of having it wired into the factory harness. Works perfect and was easy to install. |
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Posts: 66
Location: North Central, Indiana | Had the same problem. Put in a bigger battery and have not had a problem since. |
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Posts: 5874
| Good advice checking all the connections, but when all said and done, it's likely the battery.
How old is the battery? Did it always do this?
Edited by Shep 9/21/2015 8:37 AM
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Posts: 1202
Location: Money, PA | I had this same issue...You are getting a surge from your motor thats shutting down the units. I tried a bigger battery, but once the battery started to lose power it would do it again: and I installed a 1100 CCA battery which is huge. My recommendation would be a battery isolator relay. It will never happen again! |
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Posts: 2754
Location: Mauston, Wisconsin | Its likely the battery or the battery terminal connections. Take the battery terminal connections off and check/clean them. If they are not corroded, it could be bad battery or wiring. If its wiring voltage drop, it could be either negative or positive lead. So just running a positive direct to the battery may not fix it. While you have the battery terminals off, you might as well pull the battery and take it into O'Reilly's or other automotive parts store & have them test it, e.g., before you do any rewiring.
FYI, if you rewire it, you might want to put a switch in the positive lead w/ in-line fuse so you can disconnect them when not in use. Also, use marine grade wire, marine grade wire is tinned to prevent corrosion. You can tell by stripping 1/4' off & if you see copper, and not silver color on the strands, you don't have marine grade, and you will eventually have corrosion problems from water/moisture. Same is true of your trailer wires, its why so many folks have problems with trailer lights.
Good luck!
Al |
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Posts: 3518
Location: north central wisconsin | As Shep asked, has it always done this? One thing that hasn't been asked is whether you charge your starting battery or not. Back in the day many could get away with never charging their starting battery, as the alternator was enough to keep it up. With new and more powerful electronics, radios, big motors to start, this is no longer the case. It may seem simple, but give your starting battery a really good charge, start the motor, and see if it still happens. |
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Posts: 183
Location: Grand Forks ND | I had the same problem. Installed an Interstate 27 XHD cranking battery and have been good since. |
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Posts: 78
| Just wondering why a dual purpose battery & not just a cranking battery?
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Posts: 99
| I believe because dual purpose better handles discharge and recharge than a starting battery. With today's electronics batteries are drained and recharged more than they used to be. |
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Posts: 2754
Location: Mauston, Wisconsin | When you have lots of electronic loads, sonars, GPS, stereo radio/dvd player or marine radio etc. running off your starting battery, you need a dual purpose marine battery. Its a compromise between a starting battery (high rate) and a trolling motor battery (low rate), Todays "smart car" electronics turn off the headlights, dome lights etc, after you exit the vehicle - those are low rate discharges. Much like your electronics. Try that with a 60's or 70's car or your boat, and you will be looking for jumper cables.
A marine battery isolator doesn't do anything to help unless you add a second battery (low rate) for your electronics, then its a good solution.
A two battery isolator is really just two (2) high current diodes configured so they are reverse blocking and mounted to a heatsink. The two batteries can be charged from the alternator and cannot discharge each other - Its actually pretty simple, and can be built with off-the-shelf parts -> two 30A-100A 12V diodes depending on your alternator rating and a heatsink plus a little hardware.
Need a 3 battery isolator- add another diode.
Have fun!
Al
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Electronics die when I start boat