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Posts: 572
Location: Maplewood, MN | I have a 1996 Northwoods Pro Tourny 192 I/O. Boat came with a standard graph, swapped it out with a Humminbird 2 years ago. The graph pulls a lot of power from the batteries, if fishing a spot for hours without using the engine, the graph will cut out when I go to start the engine.
I also fish bass tournaments. When the battery gets low throughout the day, the livewell will cut out. Not good! Finally adding another Humminbird to the boat, adding to the bow. I'm looking at running my graphs off of a separate battery, with a cable to the main battery so it can still charge off that battery but won't drain it. Anybody do this before? |
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Location: Contrarian Island | sounds like you simply need a new/bigger starting battery. I run 2 HDS 10s, livewell, stereo w 4 speakers pumpin all day no issues... your battery sounds like it's shot.... |
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Posts: 43
| I run three batteries in my boat
1. starting the outboard
2. trolling motor and front hummingbird
3. lights, live-well, dash hummingbird
I use interstate batteries and have them serviced yearly, all of the batteries are connected to the on board charger and I also fish tournaments.
And I have never have had an issue with running out of juice.
It sounds like you have a bad cell in your battery, time to replace it.
I do not like connecting anything to my starter battery for fear of it being drained by something else running off of it. I like getting home at the end of the day.
The added weight is just piece of mind,
jas |
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Location: Contrarian Island | that may work in your rig but a lot of guys run a 24 v TM and only have room for 3 batteries... so... one for starting, electronics, and accessories and 2 for TM... that is how mine is... and I have no issues starting my motor..ever.
Edited by BNelson 6/16/2015 12:44 PM
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Posts: 1209
| I agree that battery sounds weak. Or corroded connections. That being said my horn wouldn't sound with anything else running like a sonar or pumps. But as I serviced my battery's water level I cleaned and replaced some connections and low and behold now with everything running I still have a horn that does work.
I do run a 5th battery in my boat with a 2 bank charger for accessories and my starter battery, 3 bank on trolling batteries.
My dads boat had a over charging issue so we ran a switch to his trolling battery for while running around to absorb more current. Works fine but it isn't something that we remembered all the time and could have switched it stopped running and then killed the starting battery just as easy while trolling. Not a good fix. |
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Location: Contrarian Island | 5 batteries... in one boat? wow, that is some added weight!  |
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Posts: 921
| My trolling motor runs off 24v in the front. Everything else runs off the starter. And I was having the same issue with a normal starting battery after I hooked up 2 HDS7's. Based on the advise I got on this website a couple years ago ... I went to the biggest dual purpose I could fit in the compartment. I've never had an issue since.
Midge |
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Posts: 559
| I run HDS 5 ,HDS 7,LSS1 and Onix 10 on Interstate 27 group for hours in between start ups no prob |
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Posts: 457
Location: Minneconia | I will be running 5 batteries in my new boat, 36v trolling motor, one cranker and one "house" battery.
Edited by Dirt Esox 6/16/2015 7:40 PM
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Posts: 233
Location: Iowa | I would agree, I'd check and make sure your battery is good or is starting to get weak. It should last longer than that with a good battery. If it is good, I would start checking your wiring.
I had the kind of the same problem a while ago. I have a hds 10, 7 and structure hooked up to my starting battery. After fishing a while, Most of the time when I started the boat the graph on the console would cut out also. Battery was good, kept trying to figure it out and finally I was talking with a guy in Reeds. He asked me a few questions about how I wired it up. I told him I just pulled juice from the accessory switch on the dash and from there it goes to the circuit panel under the dash. He suggested running a dedicated wire from the battery up to the graph and bigger the gauge the better. So that is what I did. I ran a 12 gauge wire (with a fuse) up to the accessory switch and tied the graph and structure I into it. I haven't had another problem since.
Then the last part, I'm a little confused. You want a separate battery for your electronics but your going to hook them up together in parallel. I'm not following. You hook them up together they will discharge both equally. One is not going to just supply volts to the graphs and the other just supply volts to the motor when you hook them up together.
You can hook them up as you were saying and should give power longer but they should discharge equally.
I also believe I've read some where (I believe in the trolling motor instruction book) that the only thing that should be connected to your trolling motor batteries is your trolling motor.
Jeremy
Edited by jwelch 6/16/2015 10:39 PM
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Posts: 1023
Location: Lafayette, IN | Used to run 5 batteries in my boat. Had room to do it. Now only 4. 2 for 24v Terrova, 1 for starter/acc, and one dedicated to electronics. Works great. |
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Posts: 194
Location: Lake Elmo, MN | Don't over-think it. Do what makes sense.
I run a 36v Terova and twin HDS 10 Gen2's, bilge pumps, aerator etc etc PLUS start a 250 ProXS.....on the standard 4 batteries (3 for trolling motor and 1 for starting). It works if you keep your batteries in good shape and buy quality batteries. No "extra" weight, or hassle. |
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Posts: 1209
| 5 batteries isn't an issue in my boat. Loves it all even had to add a 50 pound talon anchor off its stern. |
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Location: 31 | My Ranger Fisherman originally came with 5 batteries (3 for the 36V trolling motor), but I substituted the 2 that were designed for the motors (1 kicker/1 main) in favor of one group 31 battery.
This worked well until I swapped out the 2 HDS 10s for 2 HDS 12s at the helm this year, sometimes when the 12s were on for a while, and I went to start the big motor, the extra draw would cause one of the 12s to shut down. So I went back to 2 group 31s hooked up in parallel for the motors/electronics, and that solved the issue.
I still wouldn't classify this set-up as having a designated electronics battery though, just added capacity.
Edited by Jerry Newman 6/17/2015 1:43 PM
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| Are you recharging your cranking battery after every day out?
When I first got my boat, it had one small B&W fish finder. No problems; my normal gas motor operation was enough to recharge my cranking battery every day. Then I added a second, larger B&W fish finder. Still no problems.
Now I have two color fish finders (1 med and 1 larger) and I found out (the hard way) that my usual gas motor operation on the smaller lakes I usually fish wasn't enough to fully recharge the battery every day. Each day out depleted the battery more and it wasn't being replenished, until one day...
Stranded out on the lake with a flat battery! Lucky for me, it wasn't a big lake, and I got back to the launch on the TM.
Now I recharge every night and have no probs anymore. These larger color fish finders use quite a bit of juice! |
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Posts: 117
Location: Northern Illinois | We had same issue with our boat when we first got it, bought too small of a starting battery, now we got the size 31 optima blue top and have never had an issue since. |
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Posts: 572
Location: Maplewood, MN | Found the problem. Like said above, undersized battery. Battery is fine, but it is designed for starting and running electronics while the engine is RUNNING. Other batteries are about $320! Ridiculous how much a battery costs. |
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Separate Battery for Electronics