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Posts: 3242
Location: Racine, Wi | Hey kids,
I'm going to be pulling my out my old deck and putting on n a new one starting next week (because why wouldn't I wait til the season started). I'm trying to keep the costs down as much as possible. So my question is, how should I seal the plywood (going to use exterior grade pw) before I put the new carpet on? If possible, the product name and where to get it would rock!
I've done a lot of googling and see that epoxy and fiberglass is a good way, but not sure what I need to get or where. Also, are there any alternatives to the fiberglassing and epoxy route? Would a polyurethane route be okay?
It's for a crestliner 1750 fish hawk. |
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Posts: 1209
| Use marine plywood not foundation grade plywood. That stuff is way heavier but your unknowingly hardware supplier may try to talk you into it because it is more treated.
CPES. From rot doctor if used correctly on your floor makes wood almost plastic like. Can't staple to it because it gets to hard.
Then using both types of fiberglass on all the seams and joints adds extra strength.
Can double layer plywood with metal backing where seat bases go. Do it right one and it will be higher quality than new because they pump out a lot of boats you are doing one. |
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Posts: 38
| Agree. Don't use treated it can react with the aluminum on your boat and is heavy. Marine grade plywood is best but you use cheaper non treated stuff too. Pettit old Salem clear sealer is pretty good stuff for the money.
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Posts: 295
| Marine grade plywood for sure... I used spar varnish to seal mine, you can get it anywhere. Its some thick stuff, put it on as thin as you can, do a few coats and youll be good to go for years. |
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Location: 31 | The first boat I re-decked I started to use a piece of ¾” marine grade plywood, and then while sizing it up in my garage thought… there's no way this boat is even getting on plane if I make the decks/walls out of this heavy stuff.
So I returned the ¾” and went with a high-quality 5 ply CDX Fir plywood. The decks were plenty sturdy using aluminum supports/stiffeners, and held up well for me for over 10 years.
If you typically keep your boat covered when not in use, these decks will outlast the boat itself and weigh ½ as much as the ¾” marine grade deal. I know a little something about building materials and can tell you that it is vitally important to use the fir (not pine or OSB)... 4 ply CDX fir would work… 5 ply is stronger and more dimensionally stable though.
If you decide to go this route; cut out and paint all edges with an exterior grade paint first, then glue the carpet down before assembly.
Edited by Jerry Newman 5/5/2015 12:57 PM
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Location: 31 | Fishysam - 5/4/2015 1:10 PM
Can double layer plywood with metal backing where seat bases go. Do it right one and it will be higher quality than new because they pump out a lot of boats you are doing one.
Well stated! I installed the carpet/seat bases before hand with bolts and large SS washers. That was fast/easy and held up without any issues. |
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Posts: 3242
Location: Racine, Wi | Thanks for the replies boys. A few questions based on your posts.
Jerry, would ACX work, or do they not make that in fir? (How can you tell its fir?). Also, would only using exterior paint seal it enough, or do I need to go the epoxy route?
For the epoxy/glass route, what would I use for the epoxy? Where can I get it? Same question with the fiberglass. I'm a dummy when it comes to this stuff so any product info etc would be great.
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Posts: 31
| I just finished this project on an Aluminum boat. I ended up replacing everything that was wood, as the boat was more than 20 years old. I purchased marine plywood. You can get it from any lumber yard (but probably not from a big box store). It is expensive, but you will only have to do the job once. I would not recommend using anything else. After I cut the wooden pieces, I painted them with 2 coats of fiberglass resin. I used West Marine Polyester Boaters Resin. It comes with the hardener you need and mixing instructions. That worked really well to seal the wood. This basically is an epoxy coating. It will never rot now. I attached the carpet with marine carpet adhesive, like K Grip 398. They also sell this at West Marine, but they have to order it. You have to get the right carpet adhesive because it is always wet. Most adhesives are not designed to work in this environment, and the last thing you want is for the carpet to start coming back up on you. I got my carpet from Kendor Marine, which is not too far from Racine. It was far cheaper there than anywhere else, and they have a lot of choices on hand. Finally, I attached everything with stainless wood screws. I drilled a pilot hole and then inserted the screws using an impact driver. I snapped a few screws before I found the right sized drill to use for drilling the pilot holes. Anywhere I could, I used a screw and a nylok nut, but you won't have much opportunity to do that when you re-attach a deck. I have never done a job like this before, but the final result turned out really nice! However, it was not cheap and it seemed like I was always running to the hardware store. |
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Location: 31 | tuffy1 - 5/5/2015 5:09 PM
Thanks for the replies boys. A few questions based on your posts.
Jerry, would ACX work, or do they not make that in fir? (How can you tell its fir?). Also, would only using exterior paint seal it enough, or do I need to go the epoxy route?
You would need the exterior grade Fir plywood (CDX), check your local Home Depot/Menards. For the record; there's no question that epoxy coated marine plywood would be is the best, longest lasting job… it's also heavier, a lot more time-consuming, and probably twice as expensive.
I did two boats like this and each of them lasted for about 10 years before I moved on... what's the worst thing that can happen? 15/20 years when the carpet wears out you have to do it again?
Edited by Jerry Newman 5/5/2015 10:33 PM
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Posts: 1209
| Rot doctor. Com Is where I got the wood treatment and I REALLY like how there fiberglass resins layout vs bondo brand. There website is kinda old school but worked for the two boat rebuilds I have done. And as far as glass itself I stopped at a fiberglass repair shop and bought what I planned on using. Weaves, mats, strips of both given there benefits to strength and weight. I just used outdoor carpet glue and after an excessive amount of time on the water in all conditions I haven't had so much as a hiccup. You tub can instill confidence in all parts of these projects. It is a lot of work but you can make greatness happen if you don't get over whelmed. |
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Posts: 5874
| Jerry Newman - 5/5/2015 10:31 PM
tuffy1 - 5/5/2015 5:09 PM
Thanks for the replies boys. A few questions based on your posts.
Jerry, would ACX work, or do they not make that in fir? (How can you tell its fir?). Also, would only using exterior paint seal it enough, or do I need to go the epoxy route?
You would need the exterior grade Fir plywood (CDX ), check your local Home Depot/Menards. For the record; there's no question that epoxy coated marine plywood would be is the best, longest lasting job… it's also heavier, a lot more time-consuming, and probably twice as expensive.
I did two boats like this and each of them lasted for about 10 years before I moved on... what's the worst thing that can happen? 15/20 years when the carpet wears out you have to do it again?
Ditto! None of the boat makers use marine grade. Lund, Alumicraft, Crestliner. All use CDX or non treated. Look how long your floor lasted on your boat. Less cost, and a lot less weight. |
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Posts: 3242
Location: Racine, Wi | I like the CDs with paint approach. Need to get it done fairly quick, and will likely be giving the boat to my father in law in a couple of years so not looking for a 20 year solution.
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Posts: 7
| Anybody have any pics of their renos? would love to see the process |
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Posts: 5874
| If you can, take the old floor out carefully and use the pieces for templates. |
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New deck and carpet-questions galore