rod seat repair
muskiehunter2
Posted 1/3/2015 12:56 PM (#746412)
Subject: rod seat repair




Posts: 292


im looking to have a rod reel seat repaired somewhere local to avoid shipping .im located in streamwood/ schaumburg IL area .thanks Chris
RyanJoz
Posted 1/3/2015 1:03 PM (#746414 - in reply to #746412)
Subject: Re: rod seat repair




Posts: 1716


Location: Mt. Zion, IL
You might post a picture. Most reel seats are made so they fit the taper of the blank. This means you will have to remove all of the guides, wraps, and foregrip to replace (typically). Good luck.
muskiehunter2
Posted 1/3/2015 1:37 PM (#746416 - in reply to #746412)
Subject: RE: rod seat repair




Posts: 292


i can do that .the screw part of the reel seat that clamps down the reel pops .then the reel is loose on the rod.
Cedar
Posted 1/3/2015 3:07 PM (#746420 - in reply to #746412)
Subject: RE: rod seat repair




Posts: 353


Location: Western U.P.
If it's a nice rod (or something you want to spend the money on & rebuild), you can take it to a rod builder to fix, and maybe upgrade guides, etc. I think that there is a rod builder in the Northwest Suburbs (Vernon Hills maybe ??) that I remember reading about from people in this forum. Can't remember name or location, but maybe someone from that area can help.

If not, then you can do a quick repair yourself. Drill a couple of 3/16" (or even 1/4" if you want) holes on opposite sides of the top of the reel seat tube (12 - 6, or 3 - 9 position for example), and repeat at the back of the reel seat tube (just drill thru the reel seat, and not into the rod blank). Then fill the holes with a good epoxy, let dry, sand lightly if needed, and you should be good to go.
bowhunter29
Posted 1/3/2015 6:34 PM (#746445 - in reply to #746412)
Subject: Re: rod seat repair





Posts: 908


Location: South-Central PA
Cedar, the seat isn't loose, the locking nut is stripped.

muskiehunter2, you're gonna have to strip the rod and put a new seat on. Are you interested in doing the repair yourself?

jeremy
muskiehunter2
Posted 1/3/2015 6:47 PM (#746446 - in reply to #746412)
Subject: RE: rod seat repair




Posts: 292


the rod is otherwise great shape,so i was looking to have it done.but listening to what you guys are saying im not sure it would be worth it unless i did it myself.
bowhunter29
Posted 1/3/2015 7:17 PM (#746451 - in reply to #746412)
Subject: Re: rod seat repair





Posts: 908


Location: South-Central PA
Let me know if you decide to do it yourself, I can guide you through the process.

jeremy
BMuskyX
Posted 1/4/2015 6:48 AM (#746495 - in reply to #746412)
Subject: Re: rod seat repair




Posts: 275


Sounds like the same problem I have with a reel seat. Let us know if you do this repair yourself and how it comes out. I've also weighed the option if it's worth doing or just chalk it up to a loss!

Jaimy
upnortdave
Posted 1/4/2015 8:11 AM (#746503 - in reply to #746495)
Subject: Re: rod seat repair




Posts: 668


Location: mercer wi
What kind of rod. You can take off rear grip n slide a new seat on fuji 18 will fit most rods. Easier then takin guides off. Then put new cork on. Ive done it with a st croix before. Use a dremel cut off disc to remove real seat. Be careful not to cut to deep into blank. Cut both sides of seat n a flat head sctew drivet to pop it off. Use a dremel sanding barrel to remove cork. Can order overthing from mudhole.
muskiehunter2
Posted 1/4/2015 11:08 AM (#746521 - in reply to #746412)
Subject: RE: rod seat repair




Posts: 292


thanks for the info ,ill give it a shot .
achotrod
Posted 1/4/2015 2:32 PM (#746559 - in reply to #746412)
Subject: Re: rod seat repair





Posts: 1283


The place in V-hills is Daves reel repairs. FSA custom rods in Oswego IL is where I would send it.
bowhunter29
Posted 1/5/2015 9:39 AM (#746682 - in reply to #746503)
Subject: Re: rod seat repair





Posts: 908


Location: South-Central PA
upnortdave - 1/4/2015 9:11 AM

What kind of rod. You can take off rear grip n slide a new seat on fuji 18 will fit most rods. Easier then takin guides off. Then put new cork on. Ive done it with a st croix before. Use a dremel cut off disc to remove real seat. Be careful not to cut to deep into blank. Cut both sides of seat n a flat head sctew drivet to pop it off. Use a dremel sanding barrel to remove cork. Can order overthing from mudhole.


You're probably right on this. I was nervous to recommend this because without the proper tools, you'll make a mess of the rear grip and it won't won't fit properly. It's tough to ream a big rear grip without an actual grip reamer. I started out building rods like that years ago and it was the most difficult part of the process for me until I got the proper tools. As a new rod builder, wrapping the guides on was a piece of cake compared to doing grips.

muskiehunter2,
In order to make this work, you have to ream the cork to fit over the very end of the butt (the largest diameter of the blank) which means it will be loose everywhere else. In order to make it fit properly, you have to build up arbors with masking tape or drywall tape in order to make it fit snug. This must be done with the reel seat also. You'll most likely have to use a get epoxy. A liquid epoxy will run all over the place on you as you try to slide the grip on. A gel epoxy will also work much better at filling in the voids between the arbors. If you want a grip longer than 14" (the longest size available that I'm aware of) then you'll need to buy two grips and trim to the length you need. The ends of pre-made grips are rounded so you'll need to square the ends in order to get a proper fit. And don't forget the butt cap!

As upnorthdave said, be VERY careful when trimming the seat off with the dremel (cut in a spiral around the reel seat). If you cut into the blank, the rod is toast. You actually don't have to cut the whole way through the reel seat. If you score it deep enough, it will split when you put a flat head screw driver in it and twist. To remove the old epoxy under the reel seat and grips, gently heat it with a hair dryer or heat gun and scrape it off with a knife or razor blade by holding the blade at 90 degrees to the blank. This will keep you from cutting into the blank or shaving fibers off- both of which are bad news!

jeremy
Flambeauski
Posted 1/5/2015 9:46 AM (#746684 - in reply to #746412)
Subject: Re: rod seat repair




Posts: 4343


Location: Smith Creek
Easy temporary solution: wrap some plumber's tape around the threads, especially at the base. Put your reel on there and tighten it down. If you get to the bottom and it pops loose just keep adding more tape till you can tighten it all the way and it doesn't.
For a permanent solution send it back to the manufacturer or take it to Coren's in the city.
Regardless of whether the rod is out of warranty, the maker should take of you.
muskiehunter2
Posted 1/5/2015 7:08 PM (#746782 - in reply to #746412)
Subject: RE: rod seat repair




Posts: 292


thanks for the help guys
BMuskyX
Posted 1/5/2015 11:23 PM (#746817 - in reply to #746412)
Subject: Re: rod seat repair




Posts: 275


One thing I did that helped was heating shrink tubing on each end of the reel "foot". The extra thickness on the ends made the reel seat tighten sooner on more threads making it hold better. I'd give that a try before altering the rod in any way.

Jaimy
horsehunter
Posted 1/6/2015 4:31 AM (#746820 - in reply to #746412)
Subject: Re: rod seat repair




Location: Eastern Ontario
If your just wanting to make the rod useable put the reel on snug it up as best you can and tape everything with hockey tape it comes in colours if you like. I had a reel come off while fighting a fish once so usually do this anyway. It also prevents the cork from getting chewed up in rod holders.