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Posts: 94
| Hi Guys, I know there are a couple guys on here with a ranger 618T. The current prop I have is a stainless 3 blade 15x15 which is made for a pontoon boat. I get a ton of torque when i'm trying to steer it, especially in the waves. I adjusted the trim tab all the way over still having troubles, also top speed for me is 31mph. I was wondering what size props you are running and what are your top speeds and rpm's I get about 5400. I have watched the you tube videos and those guys are smoking me in the speed dept, albeit they have the H.O. I want to buy the Evinrude Cyclone prop in a 4 blade but I don't know if I should go with a 15 or jump to a 17. 90 percent of the time its just me in the boat. Any help would be great, thank you Jim  |
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Posts: 529
| What motor are you running? |
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Posts: 94
| Sorry 2013 90 Etec dpxaa which is a 25 inch 43/4 shaft. I'm pretty sure I redline at 5500 |
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Posts: 315
| Its hard to say, evinrude may have a prop list on their website. When I go to Mercury's site I enter my motor and they tell me the best prop to use. |
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Posts: 229
| I keep the friction glide on the steering pretty tight when driving in big waves. It takes some time getting used to, but it helps a lot with the pull to one side you are referring to. Once you get trimmed up, the pull should be very minimal. In big waves, I like to keep the motor trimmed a little lower as a personal preference. On relatively calm water with 2 guys and a boat full of gear I get at least 35(GPS speed) out of my 618T(when properly trimmed). Might even be able to get more. I have a 90HP ETEC. |
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Posts: 94
| but what size prop do you have Wimuskyfisherman? I just got my cyclone 14 1/2 by 15 im hoping that this helps me I cant get above 32 with the current 3 blade prop
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Posts: 3469
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Whoa!!!! Definitely the wrong prop on that boat..
Most motors of that size (mine included) will run a prop that is somewhere between 13-1/4 to 13-1/2 diameter in 17 to 19 pitch. In your case, you are running a tiller rig, so a lower pitch in the 17 range will be in order.
Given your motor tops out at 5500 rpm, you want to shoot for that rpm at top speed with just you and your gear. In the case of what you are running, going to a 13-1/4" diameter in the same pitch you would be gaining about 700 rpms. Going up in pitch to a 17 pitch steel, you would be looking at a drop in about 400 rpm, so you are still up about 300 rpm. If you can find a good OMC raker propeller (3 blade highly cupped, highly raked steel prop that is vented as well) in 13-1/2 x 18 you might be close... It might be a touch high, by about 100 rpm or so, but that can be remedied with an engine height change.
If memory serves me the 618 has its gas tank more to the front? If so, a 4 blade 15 or 16 pitch would be in order within the same diameter.
You will find your boat will be an entirely different animal with a better prop on it.
Steve |
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Posts: 94
| Steve I talked to you a few months ago via email on this site. You suggested a 4+15 four blade prop. I can't go to the three because of the massive torgue I get. I realize it may be a little faster, but I'm a big guy 6-2 270 pound trades man an I have a hard time holding it straight. I'm hoping the 4 blade 15 pitch that you talked about and that I have heard from many other people fix my problem. Sure I could have gone to the 17 but I really like the hole shot I get currently out of my 15. Thank you again for responding to my question you are extremely helpful and very insightful. Also you are correct the fuel is centered in the front part of the boat. I think the cyclone 4+15 I have should do a great job. Thanks again I will post in early spring. If I need vent holes put into that prop is it something I can do myself I have access to a drill press it should just be a small 3/8 hole ? |
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Posts: 3469
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Hiya,
For vent holes, I would take it to a prop shop to be honest.... If for no other reason than they will have a jig to hold the prop for drilling, and they can ensure all holes are identically placed and drilled perpendicular to the hub itself. Once they get done drilling, they will then balance the prop as well, so it runs smoothly without any vibration.
The money saved drilling your self could result in vibration, which would tear up your lower unit gears..
Steve |
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Posts: 94
| Thanks Steve I didn't think off that. Merry Christmas thanks for all your help. i'll email you in the spring and let you know how it all works out |
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