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Muskie Fishing -> General Discussion -> Winterization Q & A with Sea Foam, Announcement!
 
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Message Subject: Winterization Q & A with Sea Foam, Announcement!
sworrall
Posted 10/29/2014 10:34 AM (#737531)
Subject: Winterization Q & A with Sea Foam, Announcement!





Posts: 32761


Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin

Winterization Q & A with Sea Foam

Here’s your chance to interact with the product experts at Sea Foam , makers of the famous line of Sea Foam Motor Treatment products!

Today is the start of an interactive two week long Q & A about how to prepare your engine equipment for winter storage. Topic questions can be anything general or specific to two stroke or four stroke engine equipment including:

• fuel oxidation & stabilization,
• fuel system components,
• intake types,
• ethanol blends,
• 2-stroke, 4-stroke, diesel,
• fuel evaporation,
• engine and fuel deposits,
• moisture control,
• fuel phase separation,
• corrosion,
• My mechanic said… Someone told me this.....
Feel free to ask problem solving advice about ANY type of combustion engine.

INSTRUCTIONS:
Before posting your questions, please go to this page ,
read the Transition Tips article and watch the Winterization Q & A video by Lindner’s Angling Edge.

FREE SEA FOAM BALLCAPS:
Questions can be submitted from October 29th to November 4th when the thread will close. At that point, Sea Foam will not only answer each of your questions, they will award prizes to those who contribute the 7 Most Important Questions! (One question per person allowed.)

As an added bonus, MuskieFIRST will award an entrant selected by Sea Foam as one of the top seven (selected at random) a TI 9' telescoping Muskie Rod at the close of the Q&A Answering period. Edit: Today, someone became concerned the rod had not been awarded yet. We decided to allow James from Tackle Industries select the winner at the Chicago show, and award one of his new Camo split grips to the winner via a video. We usually buy many of our giveaway rods and lures at the Chicago and Milwaukee show, and send out the prizes at that time. Thanks!


Please do not submit questions or comments meant to criticize other brands.

 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

Join Sea Foam on Facebook !

 

Ask your question here!




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Attachments
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Attachments SF pic pour MH LMP.jpg (47KB - 596 downloads)
Attachments 21OCT E0 evaporation.jpg (57KB - 701 downloads)
Attachments Sea Foam Hat.jpg (27KB - 592 downloads)
14ledo81
Posted 10/29/2014 11:09 AM (#737534 - in reply to #737531)
Subject: Re: Winterization Q & A with Sea Foam, ask your top 'how to winterize my outboard' question and WIN!





Posts: 4269


Location: Ashland WI
Question: I have always heard NOT to run ethanol blends in small engines. If I am an avid Sea Foam user, how critical is it to follow that advice?
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Answer:
Sea Foam or not, the most critical variable is how frequently we replenish our fuel. Ethanol replenished routinely is less of a concern than ethanol that may sit for several weeks or months. Any fuel used up quickly does not have time to evaporate, oxidize, or gather small amounts of water in suspension. Unlike the cars and trucks we use every day, engines such as chainsaws, mowers, snow blowers, snowmobiles, outboards, augers… can spend several weeks or months without use.

In this context, the critical distinction of an ethanol blend from non-oxygenated fuel is that the ethyl alcohol in the ethanol blend is able to draw moisture from the immediate atmosphere, then suspend small amounts of water in the petroleum phase. Even though engines can run fine with water in suspension, the ethyl alcohol and water mixture becomes increasingly more corrosive to fuel system materials as it sits.
Pointerpride102
Posted 10/29/2014 11:10 AM (#737535 - in reply to #737531)
Subject: Re: Winterization Q & A with Sea Foam, ask your top 'how to winterize my outboard' question and WIN!





Posts: 16632


Location: The desert
Question: I'm holding off on winterization as there is still great fishing to be had, but....

Is it best to fill my fuel tank full before I put the boat away? I know this is a basic question, but I've heard fill it up or leave as little as possible?
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Answer: Whether empty, partially filled to full, fuel tank care is a matter of preference or circumstance. Though we don’t encourage a partial tank, it happens, and should be addressed.

Let’s compare all three:

An EMPTY fuel system means there is no fuel to degrade by evaporation and oxidation. Even so, the fuel lines, intake, and combustion areas need to be protected with a petroleum lubricant. Any possibility for water to condense in the tank will be according to storage climate. A cold and dry environment is best.

A PARTIALLY FILLED TANK should be avoided due to the combination of airspace in the tank and the thermal mass of the fuel. Airspace in a tank allows water vapor and condensation to form in the tank. If this is the situation, treat the fuel, store in a cool and dry place (if able), and progressively add any amount of fresh fuel whenever possible.

A FULL TANK eliminates or minimizes the airspace in a tank where water vapor and oxidation can form.

Whatever you choose, treating your fuel protects your fuel system from evaporation, oxidation, moisture, and corrosion.
muskyhunter63
Posted 10/29/2014 11:15 AM (#737537 - in reply to #737531)
Subject: Re: Winterization Q & A with Sea Foam, ask your top 'how to winterize my outboard' question and WIN!




Posts: 706


Location: Richland Center, WI.
Question: For years I have been winterizing my 90 horse 4 stroke by filling the tank with non ethanol fuel and adding a fuel stabilizer. I would then run the engine to make sure to get the stabilized fuel through the engine. Next I would fog the cylinders and change the oil and filter as well as the lower unit lube. I had a marine mechanic tell me that I did not need to fog the engine prior to storage. Mechanic also told me I should unhook the fuel line and run all of the fuel out of the engine prior to storage.
My question is two part. Should I fog the engine and should I run the fuel out of the engine or leave the stabilized fuel in the engine? Should mention that this is a 2004 carburated 90 hp 4 stroke.
Thanks, Ken
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Answer: Your winterizing routine is textbook. Keep doing what you’ve done in the past. Additionally, if fogging with high quality petroleum lubrication protects engine components from dry out and corrosion, what protection does not fogging offer, especially with carbureted intakes that are vented to the atmosphere?

If you’re ever interested in discovering the lubricating, heat and evaporation-resistant abilities of SEA FOAM MOTOR TREATMENT or SEA FOAM SPRAY, buy a can of DEEP CREEP and apply it to a chrome moly gun surface or lube along the bearing surfaces of an AR-15 rifle action. Whether you fire 100 rounds or store an oiled gun for several months, be prepared to find it as oily as you left it while most popular gun oils are long gone (evaporated). DEEP CREEP is a non-flammable variation of SEA FOAM, and a remarkable penetrating metal lubricant.
Netman
Posted 10/29/2014 11:27 AM (#737539 - in reply to #737531)
Subject: Re: Winterization Q & A with Sea Foam, ask your top 'how to winterize my outboard' question and WIN!





Posts: 880


Location: New Berlin,Wisconsin,53151
Question:I've always tried to run the boat out of fuel then add the stabilizer and fog the motor before storage. Then in spring fill with fresh gas and add treatment through out the season. Is this the preferred method? I have a 2 stroke outboard.

Netman
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Answer: Your routine is also solid. Any suggestion we could add can be found in the previous responses. What makes all the difference is the treatment product you choose. It’s your choice.
ShutUpNFish
Posted 10/29/2014 11:48 AM (#737546 - in reply to #737531)
Subject: Re: Winterization Q & A with Sea Foam, ask your top 'how to winterize my outboard' question and WIN!





Posts: 1202


Location: Money, PA
Question: Is it essential to run all the fuel out of the motor itself these days, now that we add fuel stabilizers to our fuels? Is it still recommended? Also is there a significant, or any difference at all in using the 89, 90 or 93 octane fuels in the outboards and do the different octanes alter the stabilizers effectiveness due to there octane levels?

~Paul Fec

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Answer: Running the fuel out of a motor over the winter months is never necessary if the fuel and intake are properly treated.

Octane is a measure of a fuel’s ability to withstand compression and does not necessarily relate to fuel quality or oxidation (stability). Most outboards are built to do their best work around 87 octane. Regardless, favor your engine manufacturer’s recommendation.
MuskyManiac09
Posted 10/29/2014 11:55 AM (#737548 - in reply to #737531)
Subject: Re: Winterization Q & A with Sea Foam, ask your top 'how to winterize my outboard' question and WIN!





Posts: 183


Location: Grand Forks ND
Question: My marine mechanic says you have to be careful when using a pure fuel stabilizer product to not over-treat, but with Seafoam there are no worries with over-treatment. Is that true?
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Answer:
Your mechanic is correct on both counts. Antioxidant stabilizer products have a shelf life (expiration date), and most mechanics can share what happens after the time runs out on your fuel system. Over-treating or overdosing is another cause for concern when using additives. Overdosing starts when adding more to a healthy amount can become a harmful amount. Sea Foam’s ingredients are highly-refined from organic fossil fuels, so you’re always adding high quality petroleum material to fuel. More, Sea Foam not only shares the same petroleum nature, it cannot cause harm, even when you add beyond the recommended amount. And, did you know that a diesel engine can run on 100% Sea Foam Motor Treatment?
mreiter
Posted 10/29/2014 12:17 PM (#737553 - in reply to #737531)
Subject: Re: Winterization Q & A with Sea Foam, ask your top 'how to winterize my outboard' question and WIN!





Posts: 333


Location: menasha wi 54952
Question: This is my procedure that I feel covers all the bases for two strokes. Should I be doing anything different?

Empty fuel lines and carburetors

While the engine is still running, disconnect the fuel line from the engine. When the engine dies, the fuel delivery components will be empty, preventing gums from forming in the stagnant gasoline and clogging lines and jets or injectors.

Fog the carburetor intake(s)

Before the engine runs out of fuel, spray fogging oil into the carburetor(s). Fogging oil will protect the internal surfaces of the carburetor and the cylinders. Typically the engine will run rough just before it runs out of fuel. As that happens, give the carburetor(s) a heavier shot of fogging oil to make sure internal surfaces are fully coated.

Fog the cylinders

Remove the spark plugs and spray fogging oil into the holes to coat the interior surfaces of the cylinders. Rotate the flywheel a few turns to spread the oil on the cylinder walls. While the plugs are out is the time to check them and regap or replace as required. Reinstall the spark plugs.

Drain fuel tank and supply lines if running ethanol based gasoline. I only use non ethanol gasoline.

If emptying the tank completely is not practical for your boat, then top it off to 95% full. This is particularly important since the introduction of alcohol into the gasoline supply. Gasoline with ethanol is subject to phase separation, which it will surely do with a half-empty tank over the winter. Filling the tank limits the air space inside the tank and reduces the potential for internal condensation.

Stabilize the fuel

If you leave your tank full, dose it with an appropriate amount of gasoline stabilizer to combat the formation of passage-clogging gums.

Am I missing anything here? My engine is a 1997 175HP EFI Mercury. I only run non ethanol gasoline.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Answer:
We like your understanding of the engine storage concept. We agree, anyway. You’re not missing anything if you’re protecting your fuel properly. Does your stabilizer protect light fuel material from evaporation, hold the fuel’s flashpoint, and lubricate the entire fuel system? How well does your fogging lubricant break surface tension, dissolve varnish, and resist evaporation? If you have it covered right, you have it covered.

Go to the 4:50 minute mark on the video and carefully watch the disbursed Sea Foam crawl outward on the metal plate. As a fogging lubricant, SEA FOAM SPRAY will not burn or cook in a hot intake, and starts to crawl and coat as soon as it contacts metal (breaks surface tension). Don’t forget its ability to resist evaporation over an extended period of storage.
IAJustin
Posted 10/29/2014 1:33 PM (#737573 - in reply to #737531)
Subject: Re: Winterization Q & A with Sea Foam, ask your top 'how to winterize my outboard' question and WIN!




Posts: 1964


Question: Ive ran several types of outboards recently...dealers always want you to use their products, . Is Sea Foam approved with all manufactures and can you speak on similarities and difference between other common (dealer pushed) products such as : Quickleen and Carbon Guard?

------------------------------------------------------------------

Answer: We aren’t aware of any engine manufacturer (OEM) that formally endorses Sea Foam products though we are familiar with several OEMs that recommend Sea Foam to their servicing and customer service levels. Even so, it’s not realistic to expect approval from manufacturers considering the Magnuson-Moss Act and that virtually all outboard manufacturers (in this forum context) offer their own lines of treatment products.
There’s a decent likelihood that anyone visiting this forum who works professionally in automotive or fleet distribution is aware of the scale and depth of Sea Foam’s commitment to the wholesale and dealer levels. Like any engine servicing business, marine dealers are real people with a lot of responsibility and need to make the best decisions they can on behalf of their employees, customers, OEMs and other relationships. How they respond to quality, price, margins, manufacturer requirements, customer preferences … is an ongoing balancing act. If they favor an OEM’s product, there are important reasons for it, one being that most OEM treatment products are specifically developed to compliment the OEM engine equipment.
Finally, please appreciate that we do not wish to comment on comparison or the merits of other products.
Jeremy
Posted 10/29/2014 1:47 PM (#737576 - in reply to #737531)
Subject: RE: Winterization Q & A with Sea Foam, ask your top 'how to winterize my outboard' question and WIN!




Posts: 1126


Location: Minnesota.
Question: I've been running Sea Foam in my gas for over 18 yrs with no issues at all.

I typically have approx. 15 gals. of gas left at storage. I dump a full pint can of Sea Foam into the tank and run the engine awhile and then shut her off. Is this too much or not enough Sea Foam??

I'm currently running a 2012 Yamaha 150 4 stroke.

Jeremy.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Answer: When treating for storage, Sea Foam Motor Treatment’s recommended minimum dosage is 1 ounce per gallon of gasoline or diesel fuel. Considering Sea Foam’s petroleum nature, remember that there is no max dosage, though somewhat unnecessary and costly, and should not be considered a substitute for fuel.
A note on dosage: Whenever you see a treatment dosage stated on any fuel treatment package, consider the relationship to 128 ounces in a gallon of fuel. So, Sea Foam Motor Treatment packaging shows a minimum mix ratio of 1 per 128. Does it seem realistic that one ounce of additive will treat 128 ounces of fuel? You won’t have to venture too far to find dosage representations of 1 per 300 ounces or more. Think about that, then whether your engine is getting lubrication (cooling, wear and corrosion protection) and flashpoint protection (quick ignition) – Two essential contributors to extending useful engine life.
FAT-SKI
Posted 10/29/2014 2:50 PM (#737579 - in reply to #737576)
Subject: RE: Winterization Q & A with Sea Foam, ask your top 'how to winterize my outboard' question and WIN!




Posts: 1360


Location: Lake "y" cause lake"x" got over fished
Question: I have an older (80s) outboard. I have heard that for some of the newer engines that fogging is not needed, but is with the older stuff? obviously I'll change the lower unit lube. But is fogging necessary? I can easily disconnect my fuel lines. I only have a three gallon tank. Should I just empty it and disconnect the lines? I do use NON-ethanol gas for my motor, have never done it any other way. Should I still use Seafoam on top of that over the winter?

First year of winterizing for me... Thus I have tons of questions

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Answer: Though the lubricity in Sea Foam Motor Treatment will protect your outboard through the winter without fogging, we have no idea how or why someone would suggest that lubricating and protecting the top end (in general) is not necessary. Even so, anyone willing to fog their engines is adding a direct measure of lubrication and protection from corrosion and dry out. For your eighties engine, we recommend that you fog through your carburetor and spark plug holes.

Please go to 4:20 on the video for review.
MikeDircz
Posted 10/29/2014 4:04 PM (#737583 - in reply to #737579)
Subject: RE: Winterization Q & A with Sea Foam, ask your top 'how to winterize my outboard' question and WIN!





Posts: 62


Location: Minnetonka MN
Question: Is there any difference in winterizing a 2 Stroke versus a 4 Stroke Outboard? I have a 2 Stroke Merc 150 now, and used to have a 50 Merc 4 Stroke.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Answer:
Differences between outboards and winterizing have more to do with intake and fuel filter types than whether a 2 or 4 stroke engine cycle. Using Sea Foam and Sea Foam Spray allows you to treat any outboard’s top end through the fuel filter, the intake (carburetor or throttle plate), or into the fuel line if there’s a primer bulb. Accessing the top end depends on preference or accessibility. Whatever your intake method might be, finish with Sea Foam Spray through the plug holes after the engine cools.

Please go to 3:30 on the video for review.
ghoti
Posted 10/29/2014 4:35 PM (#737590 - in reply to #737531)
Subject: Re: Winterization Q & A with Sea Foam, ask your top 'how to winterize my outboard' question and WIN!




Posts: 1258


Location: Stevens Point, Wi.
Question: When answering the question of storing an outboard with a full tank vs. an empty one, please explain the science behind your answer, as the surface area exposed to the atmosphere would be the same in both cases.
----------------------------------------------------------------

Answer: In an empty tank there is no fuel exposure whatsoever. In a filled tank there is no airspace (or minimized).
If you meant almost full verses less full with equal surface exposure to oxygen, the answer is attrition. The tank with more fuel will oxidize less per volume. No matter, all stated with respect to limitations of (reasonable) time and care.
pklingen
Posted 10/29/2014 7:33 PM (#737606 - in reply to #737531)
Subject: Re: Winterization Q & A with Sea Foam, ask your top 'how to winterize my outboard' question and WIN!




Posts: 858


Location: NE Ohio
Question: Why is SEA FOAM better than any other fuel treatment?
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Answer: Whether for prevention or remedy, Sea Foam products have been a famous and terrific response for more than 75 years, and even more important today. That doesn’t mean that other specialized products don’t do well. What we look at is a commitment to the quality of the material and the inventive mind behind the synthesis. What Sea Foam is and what it’s able to do should be common sense to anyone with real-world expertise around fuel and engine function. It’s all a response to the laws of the universe, but it isn’t rocket science.
newmuskyz
Posted 10/30/2014 5:57 AM (#737640 - in reply to #737531)
Subject: RE: Winterization Q & A with Sea Foam, ask your top 'how to winterize my outboard' question and WIN!




Posts: 567


Question: As a staple I treat my four stroke Yamaha jet with sea foam since I've owned it last year. I treat it each fill up per package instruction. It runs great and I've had no issues. I also own a 1995 merc 9.9 2 stroke, which I also treat. It tends to not be used as much. My question is, how does the sea foam actually work in the four stroke without the oil mixture vs. The two stroke with the added oil? Should I be treating them differently? I.e. more or less additive etc? I know that now there are various products available which are "developed" to specially treat the two stroke oil mixtures. Should I consider these now even though I have treated these engines (chainsaw and weedeater included) for so long with standard sea foam? Thanks in advance.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Answer:
There is no reason or need to treat the two engines differently. Sea Foam is going to do what Sea Foam does regardless of whether it’s 2 stroke, 4 stroke, or diesel. It’s always helping fuel resist varnish formation and evaporation, plus cleaning deposits, controlling small amounts of moisture, and adding lubricity to upper cylinders.

For your smaller 2-stroke engines we recommend sticking to E-0 fuel, oil mix, and Sea Foam. If your final question is referring to fuel with pre-mixed 2 cycle oil in a can, it might be worth a try if you don’t have access to E-O (zero ethanol).

Muskie Junkie
Posted 10/30/2014 8:00 AM (#737650 - in reply to #737531)
Subject: Re: Winterization Q & A with Sea Foam, ask your top 'how to winterize my outboard' question and WIN!





Posts: 246


Question: I have a 2011 150 HP Evinrude E-Tec that I have been adding Star Brite Star Tron Enzyme fuel treatment whenever I fill up with ethanol in the gas. If I were to use Sea Foam instead, would this do the same thing? Also, when I winterize the motor, besides keeping the fuel stable, does Sea Foam do anything better for the fogging process?

Thanks, Steve Ruhmann
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Answer: Sea Foam is a different product with different attributes. We encourage you to review the link-to article and video.
Sea Foam Spray is an amazing fogging product. There isn’t anything like it per degree of petroleum refinement and abilities to dissolve deposits, resist heat, and break surface tension.
vegas492
Posted 10/30/2014 8:17 AM (#737654 - in reply to #737531)
Subject: Re: Winterization Q & A with Sea Foam, ask your top 'how to winterize my outboard' question and WIN!




Posts: 1023


Question: I run a 2007 150 Optimax. I keep the boat and engine in a heated garage in the winter. It never gets below 40 degrees. Outside of treating the little bit of fuel in my tank, is there anything else that I should absolutely be doing to the engine?
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Answer: For winter storage you need to address fuel evaporation, oxidation, and be confident that your intake and combustion components are lubricated and protected from dry out and corrosion. A lot of outboard owners cannot be addressing lubrication and flashpoint if the fuel additive lacks those attributes. As long as you’re treating with the right remedy, we’d say you’re in fine shape.
In the context of lubricity, please review the video burn test from 4:40 to 6:10.
SteveHulbert
Posted 10/30/2014 8:53 AM (#737661 - in reply to #737531)
Subject: Re: Winterization Q & A with Sea Foam, ask your top 'how to winterize my outboard' question and WIN!





Posts: 202


Location: Angola, IN
Question: I believe SeaFoam is a mix of: Pale Oil, Naphtha, and Isopropyl Alcohol.

I realize the benefit of having added lubricity to fuel...and this is what the Pale Oil is providing in Sea Foam. But in a 2-stroke, there is already 2% oil in the fuel. No extra lubricity is needed. In all my 4-strokes (cars, truck, motorcycles, lawnmowers, etc. etc.), I always add 1 oz of TCW-3 2-stroke oil to all my gasoline at a rate of 1 oz. per 5 gallons of gas. This helps to increase fuel economy, as well as provide extra protection of the combustion chamber/upper cylinder.

Naphtha is a decent solvent, and will for help keep varnish in suspension and not depositing in carbs. It will helps keep float valves free, jets clear, etc. etc.

But its the isopropyl alcohol (IPA) that I'm most concerned about. Boaters go out of their way to keep ethanol out of their gas. So, why would I want to add a big slug of IPA to my fuel before I pack her away for the winter? Either we should keep alcohol out of our marine and small engines, or we shouldn't. Which one is it?

What I do is add Blue/Marine Stabil to all my fuel for the winter. I also add a little polyethylene amine (PEA) which is found in Gumout Regane or Techron fuel treatment. No reason to fog cylinders unless going into long-term storage for several years. All my engines fire right up, every time, every spring.

So my questions is....what is Sea Foam claiming to do? What are the benefits of its use?
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Answer: Let’s start out by responding to claims and benefits. A longer answer can be found in the Q&A instruction article and video. A shorter answer is that Sea Foam helps to clean, add lubricity to fuel (and yes, including 2–cycle oil), control small amounts of moisture, and stabilize. Notice that the claims are identical with the benefits. Any combustion engine that runs cooler, with less friction, runs cleaner, and starts easier will realize a longer useful life.

Is water just a single oxygen atom and two hydrogen atoms? Yes, but water is much more than that. Part of understanding Sea Foam or any product’s abilities requires knowing the degree of quality of each ingredient, its volume, its purposes, and how the ingredients complement each other as a whole. Point is, don’t stop short at analysis.

Should volume or an ingredient’s range of attributes be considered? How much IPA is in a dosage of Sea Foam? Is there a serious amount PEA in a little bottle of additive? What are the IPA’s primary and secondary purposes, its degree of purity, and from what was the IPA derived? Does IPA contribute to solvency, volatility, fuel stability? Are there volume ratios and characteristics of ethyl alcohol that have absolutely nothing to do with small amounts of pure IPA?

You can also look at Sea Foam for what it is not or cannot do. It is not harsh chemical or detergent-based. It does not cook or turn to goo when exposed to chamber heat and does not have an expiration date. The very high quality of Sea Foam’s petroleum material is by no means cheap and has never been compromised (75+ years). Finally, what comes out of a can of Sea Foam is gentle and cannot cause harm to a fuel system.

We like this post a lot and hope our response causes some new thought.

Please see response to mnmusky.
chasintails
Posted 10/30/2014 12:35 PM (#737703 - in reply to #737531)
Subject: Re: Winterization Q & A with Sea Foam, ask your top 'how to winterize my outboard' question and WIN!




Posts: 451


Question: Does it hurt to over mix sea foam? And what are the recommended ratios per gallon for normal use vs. storage?
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Answer: Do not be concerned if you exceed 1 oz per gallon for running season or when storing. As much as 50/50 can be OK if that helps you with ratios. Please see responses to MuskyManiac09 and Jeremy.
Jeremy
Posted 10/30/2014 5:47 PM (#737770 - in reply to #737576)
Subject: RE: Winterization Q & A with Sea Foam, ask your top 'how to winterize my outboard' question and WIN!




Posts: 1126


Location: Minnesota.
Jeremy - 10/29/2014 1:47 PM

I've been running Sea Foam in my gas for over 18 yrs with no issues at all.

I typically have approx. 15 gals. of gas left at storage. I dump a full pint can of Sea Foam into the tank and run the engine awhile and then shut her off. Is this too much or not enough Sea Foam??

I'm currently running a 2012 Yamaha 150 4 stroke.

Jeremy.


I think this is the only time I've ever answered my own post w/a quote....I could'nt edit my orig. post...

But I got my question answered after watching the video. Thank you. It was good.


Jeremy.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Answer: Thanks for the earlier post and for viewing the content.
brianT
Posted 10/30/2014 9:01 PM (#737815 - in reply to #737531)
Subject: Re: Winterization Q & A with Sea Foam, ask your top 'how to winterize my outboard' question and WIN!





Posts: 427


Location: Planet Meltdown
Question: Is it safe to run Seafoam if you have already been using another fuel stabilization product?

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Answer: No worries. Sea Foam Motor Treatment shares the same petroleum nature as your fuel, so you’re always adding quality petroleum material to petroleum. Please see response to MuskyManiac09.
lifeisfun
Posted 10/31/2014 4:36 AM (#737829 - in reply to #737531)
Subject: Re: Winterization Q & A with Sea Foam, ask your top 'how to winterize my outboard' question and WIN!





Location: Ontario
Question: If you have large amount of older (probably over a year old) gas, will adding seafoam make it useable again?
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Answer: Sea Foam will dissolve deposits caused by fuel oxidation (old fuel), but won’t restore lost fuel quality. Untreated fuel will evaporate/ degrade considerably after one year. Start thinking about how to remove and dilute the aged fuel, then replenish with fresh fuel.
chasintails
Posted 10/31/2014 2:34 PM (#737916 - in reply to #737531)
Subject: Re: Winterization Q & A with Sea Foam, ask your top 'how to winterize my outboard' question and WIN!




Posts: 451


Question: Will Sea Foam change the flash point of the fuel?

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Answer: If any change it’s negligible - Figure +.01%. Keep in mind that Sea Foam does an impressive job of holding a fuel’s flashpoint over a long period of time.
sworrall
Posted 10/31/2014 10:02 PM (#737970 - in reply to #737531)
Subject: Re: Winterization Q & A with Sea Foam, ask your top 'how to winterize my outboard' question and WIN!





Posts: 32761


Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin
heckster asks:

Posted 10/31/2014 9:01 PM (#737959)



Question: Is there a shelf life on this product? Or a use by date?
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Answer: There is no shelf life on Sea Foam. Some stabilizer products do have a use by date, and it’s also important to understand what happens to the fuel after the use by date. Ask an experienced marine mechanic or product manufacturer.
TCESOX
Posted 11/1/2014 11:08 AM (#738020 - in reply to #737531)
Subject: Re: Winterization Q & A with Sea Foam, ask your top 'how to winterize my outboard' question and WIN!





Posts: 1168


Question: Ran the gas tank empty as I was pulling into the launch area at the end of the last trip out. I plan on at least two more trips before winterizing. Won't need much gas, as I won't be trolling. Should I just put in two or three gallons(and treat it), which would be enough for what I'll be doing, and leave the tank virtually empty for the winter, or should I completely fill(and treat) the tank before winterizing? Tank is 32 gallons. Unless it would be a problem, I would prefer to fill in the spring with fresh gas.

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Answer: Please see response to Pointerpride102. If entering into winter with a partial tank, being in a cool and dry storage atmosphere will help.
mnmusky
Posted 11/1/2014 11:48 AM (#738024 - in reply to #737531)
Subject: Re: Winterization Q & A with Sea Foam, ask your top 'how to winterize my outboard' question and WIN!




Question: How is moisture in the tank controlled with Sea Foam?

Lastly, Is Sea Foam Stadium at Concordia going to get a dome?
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Answer: The common occurrences of moisture we realize every day in our petroleum fluids (fuel, hydraulics, crankcase oil, power steering, transmission) are by vapor and condensation. Despite all of the hype around water handling, amounts of moisture in all but accidental or negligent situations is very small and manageable. Sea Foam helps to solubilize the moisture evenly throughout the fuel phase so it easily evaporates when the fuel aspirates toward extreme engine heat. For perspective, keep in mind that the 12.8 ounces of ethyl alcohol in one gallon of E10 fuel can suspend more than 200 times the amount of water per volume than a dosage of Sea Foam.

Am told there is a pop up dome used doing the winter. No kidding.
MD75
Posted 11/1/2014 5:08 PM (#738058 - in reply to #737531)
Subject: Re: Winterization Q & A with Sea Foam, ask your top 'how to winterize my outboard' question and WIN!





Posts: 682


Location: Sycamore, IL
Question: If you are only putting your boat away for 3 months or less should you still "winterize" it?

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Answer: Winterizing can be anything from a basic tank pour to pulling parts to fog an intake and cylinder cavities. Just be aware that untreated fuel will easily oxidize and lose some of its light ends to the atmosphere long before three months have gone by. It’s up to you, but the right treatment in the tank (at a minimum) will go a long way to lubricate the engine and protect the fuel from degrading.

Please review the video starting at 2:30.
giroux
Posted 11/1/2014 6:42 PM (#738071 - in reply to #737531)
Subject: Re: Winterization Q & A with Sea Foam, ask your top 'how to winterize my outboard' question and WIN!




Posts: 43


Question: I have a 50 hp yamaha 4-stroke, 18' crestliner with built in 17 gal. gas tank. I put Sea Foam in my tank one time, the tank was full and my motor ran like crap after I added the Sea Foam. My Question is: was their water in my tank and the Sea Foam some how mixed with the water and allowed it to run through my engine? Once I ran the tank down and added fresh gas the engine ran fine again. Needless to say I have never used SeaFoam again because of the issue I had. If you could explain why this happened to me I would greatly appreciate it.

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Answer: Of course, we don’t know what happened.

Here’s a possibility to consider:

EO gasoline (zero alcohol) and water are not miscible (they cannot mix). Because water is denser, any water in your fuel would have been sitting on the bottom of your tank in a glob (somewhere out of reach from your fuel tank’s pickup) before you added the Sea Foam. In that situation (which is common in E0 gasoline), introducing the Sea Foam might have broken up the glob of water and it moved it over and through your fuel tank pickup. The rough running engine was water working its way through combustion. You can duplicate this effect with a jar of fuel, a water dropper, and some Sea Foam.

Long TIme Lurker
Posted 11/2/2014 1:09 PM (#738153 - in reply to #737531)
Subject: RE: Winterization Q & A with Sea Foam, ask your top 'how to winterize my outboard' question and WIN!





Posts: 89


Question: t have a New 150 Yamaha four stroke. My sea foam can says use in oil, Is there an advantage to adding Sea Foam to My Oil also Before I put it away for the year? And if so at what Ratio would be best for long term storage? I did not see any information on this in the video.

Note: I may be overthinking things but this is my new baby

Thanks for your time

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Answer: Sea Foam is used in crankcases (4-cycle and diesel) to dissolve varnish deposits that are always forming in petroleum fluids. To keep any crankcase clean, add Sea Foam at a dosage of 1.5 ounces per quart prior to your next oil & filter change. For an auto, add Sea Foam to the crankcase anywhere between 100 to 500 driving miles prior. For an outboard, go 5 to 10 running hours prior (to change).

Jeff78
Posted 11/2/2014 3:35 PM (#738191 - in reply to #737531)
Subject: Re: Winterization Q & A with Sea Foam, ask your top 'how to winterize my outboard' question and WIN!





Posts: 1660


Location: central Wisconsin
My question is about my tow vehicle.

Question: At what point in a vehicles life would you recommend treating with Seafoam? My current rig is a 2013 Ford F150 with 5K miles on it so I would not expect to have to treat it, my previous truck was a 1997 Suburban that I owned for fifteen years. I never treated it, should I have and at what point and intervals?

Thank you

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Answer: You cannot start the right treatment too early, so soon after new. For any auto that’s driven regularly we recommend a tank and crankcase treatment every 3,000 miles. The autos we use every day replenish fresh fuel at a frequent rate, so tank fuel protection is less critical than for engines used on occasion.
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