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More Muskie Fishing -> Basement Baits and Custom Lure Painting -> Painting blades
 
Message Subject: Painting blades
Musky_Mo16
Posted 5/20/2017 12:02 PM (#862238)
Subject: Painting blades




Posts: 735


Location: Apparently where the Muskie aren't
Anyone have a certain paint that you think works better than other for painting blades? I could just order pre painted ones but I think it would be easier to order all nickel or copper and paint them whatever color I want. Thanks.
Eric21x
Posted 5/21/2017 2:26 PM (#862322 - in reply to #862238)
Subject: Re: Painting blades




Posts: 44


Honestly the only way to go is powder painting. The durability compaired to airbrushed is way better
Musky_Mo16
Posted 5/21/2017 5:21 PM (#862342 - in reply to #862238)
Subject: Re: Painting blades




Posts: 735


Location: Apparently where the Muskie aren't
I wasn't expecting something that fancy lol. I thought maybe I could get away with a spray paint.
otto
Posted 5/21/2017 8:03 PM (#862363 - in reply to #862238)
Subject: Re: Painting blades





Posts: 47


Powder ain't necessarily fancy, just easy and very durable.

I've sprayed a ton of blades and it's alot of work. Plain brass or steel paints up better than anything plated (nickle etc.). Gotta get 'em grease/oil free. I threw mine in a case tumbler with some blasting sand for a bit. A little roughness helps hold paint. A quick rinse in alcohol to remove the dust and they're ready for paint. I found a first coat of that red metal primer was the best to get paint to stick well. Follow that with a shot of white primer and then color. If you're doing fluorescent colors you need the white underneath to achieve maximum brightness. Of course most fluorescents dry flat so if you want 'em shiny you'll have to hit 'em with a clear coat. Once completely painted I liked to leave 'em out in full sun to bake on.

Sound like a lot of fooling around? Kinda...... But you can do it. Worst thing is if you don't prep blades or get the primer right your paint flakes off in pretty short order. Then it's a lot of work for nothing.
ARmuskyaddict
Posted 5/22/2017 9:41 PM (#862500 - in reply to #862238)
Subject: Re: Painting blades





Posts: 2001


I build bucktails and have been using a coat of clear enamel spray-paint over the blades. It helps for a while, but when it gets nicked, it does start peeling off. Can a coat of clear powder paint be applied over the painted blades we get online?

I build for friends, donate some, and sell a few for a little bit over cost. So, keeping cost down is something I prefer. Buying powder-coated blades is a bit expensive. I don't mind the effort, it's my off season hobby, all 49 other weeks of the year. Haha
otto
Posted 5/22/2017 10:16 PM (#862515 - in reply to #862500)
Subject: Re: Painting blades





Posts: 47


I for sure get the "more time than money" thing... I never tried powder over conventional paint. It would have to take the heat first for application and then a second time for curing. Around 350 - 380F to get it hot enough to melt the powder and then another 20 minutes or so of that to cure. I'd have to say I doubt it but I could be wrong on that. I've done it the other way round and added detail over powder with conventional paint. I always clear coated with acrylic.

The secret to keeping paint on the blades is beginning with perfect prep and using good primers so the paint really sticks instead of flaking off. Honestly, one shortcut and your blades will flake if you look at 'em sideways. I had very good luck following the prescription I outlined above.
Musky_Mo16
Posted 5/23/2017 12:53 AM (#862523 - in reply to #862515)
Subject: Re: Painting blades




Posts: 735


Location: Apparently where the Muskie aren't
I'll admit, I am very, very unfimiliar with powder. This is a whole new thing to me so don't judge when I ask these questions. Do you use a powered oven or gun? And how exactly does powder painting work?
otto
Posted 5/23/2017 6:07 AM (#862528 - in reply to #862523)
Subject: Re: Painting blades





Posts: 47


Powder paint is basically a plastic that melt to your object if it is heated enough. Once applied there is necessary curing time in an oven, usually 20-30 minutes @ 350-380F. The curing bonds the paint to the metal. If you don't cure it chips more easily than regular paint.

The simplest set up can have you heating the object with a heat gun or small torch and either dipping into the jar or powder or sprinkling it on. For multiple items it it easier to use a toaster oven. This has room for a number of pieces, maintains a steady heat, doesn't take up a lot of space and can usually be found pretty cheap. I got mine for $5 at a rummage.

Application here has some issues also. If you dip in the jar, powder will tend to settle and clump. This means you will have to cover the jar and shake it up to re-fluff the powder every couple/few dips. If you just try to shake it on it also tends toward uneven application. I found that using a large makeup powder brush to apply worked pretty well. Don't actually touch the item with the brush, just get plenty of powder "in" the bristles and tap it over the item for a much finer, relatively even coating.

The Cadillac application uses a fluid bed where air is pushed upward in a special jar through the powder in such a way that it never compacts. In fact when properly adjusted you can "swirl" the powder in the cup as if it were water. This makes for the finest, most even application and allows for double or even triple dipping if you are set up with multiple jars. An aquarium pump is more than enough air to run three different beds simultaneously. There is also an air brush for powder but I have no experience with that.

At the end you will have to figure out a curing rack for a larger oven. Blades can hang on paper clips or tiny s-hooks of wire. They cannot touch anything else or they will stick to it. Also prepare for paint dripping off if your application is heavy handed. It really doesn't hurt anything but next time you make a pizza it will taste a little different.

I paint hundred of jigs, spinnerbaits, lure bodies and blades every year. If you want it good there is no real easy path even if you're willing to make an investment.
Brian7488
Posted 5/23/2017 6:50 AM (#862530 - in reply to #862238)
Subject: Re: Painting blades




Posts: 54


There are several DIY videos on YouTube on how to make your own fluid bed for powder coating, you do not need to spend $100+ like the ones that are on LPO or Barlow's. YouTube is a great tool to learn how to do just about anything.
Musky_Mo16
Posted 5/23/2017 5:01 PM (#862589 - in reply to #862238)
Subject: Re: Painting blades




Posts: 735


Location: Apparently where the Muskie aren't
It doesn't sound to bad. I don't mind spending a little bit of money on it because it will give me the capability to make my own blades and I can just order blades in bulk and paint them up.

I found this video and explanation, does this sound about right? http://csipaint.com/instructions/techniques-instructions/how-to-use...

It sounds like all I really need is the powder. I could just use a blow torch for the heating I would assume and I have oven so it doesn't seem to bad.

Looks like I can get a toaster oven on ebay for around 25-30 dollars too.

Edited by Musky_Mo16 5/23/2017 5:04 PM
otto
Posted 5/23/2017 5:11 PM (#862590 - in reply to #862530)
Subject: Re: Painting blades





Posts: 47


Brian7488 - 5/23/2017 6:50 AM

There are several DIY videos on YouTube on how to make your own fluid bed for powder coating, you do not need to spend $100+ like the ones that are on LPO or Barlow's. YouTube is a great tool to learn how to do just about anything.


You said it! I got my set up from a guy, TJs Tackle somewhere in MI. He figured out how to do the "real deal" membrane in the bottom of the cup. Right now, his kit (air pump, one base, 5 2" dia. cups w/ lids and 2 oz. of paint) is $50 on eBay. The 3" kit only has two cups and is $48.

I got the 3" setup, bought parts for additional bases at Menards, ordered extra cups for $7 each and the original pump drives at least three base/cup combos simultaneously. Probably more.

As far as the DIY cups go, it's a lot of messing around too. You can use grocery bag paper, coffee filters, newsprint, well most anything that isn't airtight. None of it, I repeat, none of it is as effective or carefree as the hard porous plastic membrane in the real deal. TJ has that nail and for very reasonable. I've been the paper (read cheap) route. It tears, is inconsistent in air passage requiring constant adjustment, and you spend more time monkeying trying to get it to work the way you would like instead of actually painting anything.
Musky_Mo16
Posted 5/23/2017 6:32 PM (#862599 - in reply to #862238)
Subject: Re: Painting blades




Posts: 735


Location: Apparently where the Muskie aren't
Just to save some money off the bat, is it ok to use the same cup for Different colored powder and just store my powder in bags?
otto
Posted 5/23/2017 7:17 PM (#862607 - in reply to #862599)
Subject: Re: Painting blades





Posts: 47


Yep. That works. There is time involved in dumping out the current color, brushing or vacuuming out (that's what I did with a small shop vac and brush attachment) any residue and reloading. If you do any amount of painting, it is so easy, you begin to get a bit impatient. Honestly, once you see the base, to make more of those is a snap. I've just ordered extra cups from TJ to expand the operation. You can also easily make the adapters to convert a 3" base to a 2". The conversion is not permanent so you can flip back and forth between. Do avoid kits that offer "extra filters" because all it is is paper coffee filters or the like and they are just a pain. TJs is the real deal and you will not be disappointed in your investment.

Lest anyone is wondering: I am not TJ, nor a friend, acquaintance, relative or "prostaffer"; simply a very, very satisfied consumer. He is "dayooper" on eBay. All others are distant seconds.....
otto
Posted 5/23/2017 7:22 PM (#862613 - in reply to #862238)
Subject: Re: Painting blades





Posts: 47


Here's a few jigs I painted ice and open water:

Edited by otto 5/23/2017 7:30 PM



Zoom - | Zoom 100% | Zoom + | Expand / Contract | Open New window
Click to expand / contract the width of this image
(Mini Hawgers.JPG)


Zoom - | Zoom 100% | Zoom + | Expand / Contract | Open New window
Click to expand / contract the width of this image
(3 Eighths oz Colors.JPG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments Mini Hawgers.JPG (83KB - 483 downloads)
Attachments 3 Eighths oz Colors.JPG (61KB - 445 downloads)
Musky_Mo16
Posted 5/23/2017 8:42 PM (#862632 - in reply to #862613)
Subject: Re: Painting blades




Posts: 735


Location: Apparently where the Muskie aren't
Nice jigs, how did you do the multie color thing on the first ones? I didn't think that was possible with the powder painting technique. Also what is the difference with a 2" and 3" cup? Can't I just do everything in the 3" cup?
otto
Posted 5/24/2017 6:05 AM (#862656 - in reply to #862632)
Subject: Re: Painting blades





Posts: 47


You can add detail or clear coat with conventional vinyl lure paint. I've also done details with a Sharpie marker. The solvent in the paint will actually melt the powder a bit and sticks very well. As I said, I have not tried powder over regular paint. I also have one of those powder air brushes but it is very new and hasn't even gotten it'self out of the box yet.

2" v 3" cups: 3" costs more (a little), holds more powder, allows wider/bigger items to be coated. 2" doesn't take as much powder to create depth (for dipping). This can keep powder inventory/cost down. Say you want to dip a 4" willow blade. It would take 2.25 times as much powder to fill a 3" cup to the same effective dipping depth of a 2" cup. Remember, you will need to keep enough powder in the cup to fully cover what you want to paint. As you dip you will need to replenish to maintain that level.

I have found there's only a couple of things I really need a 3" cup for. Most of mine are 2" and because they have lids you can just store your paint right inside. With any of the cups make sure you don't ding that membrane up. They very durable but you don't want to dent up any/many of those openings. Also, bumping the bottom when you dip anything hot can make little melt marks in the plastic.

Added (edit):
Oh yeah, always clear any openings (jig eyes, blade holes etc.) before curing. If you wait till after it's almost impossible. If you make a mistake or want to change something already powdered and cured just toss it in a jar of acetone. It will dissolve the powder coat and you can start over.

Edited by otto 5/24/2017 6:10 AM
Musky_Mo16
Posted 5/25/2017 11:39 PM (#862894 - in reply to #862238)
Subject: Re: Painting blades




Posts: 735


Location: Apparently where the Muskie aren't
Thanks everyone, powder coating defiantly sounds like the way to go. This video sold me on it too https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0WbD32yucWg
ARmuskyaddict
Posted 5/27/2017 6:26 PM (#863079 - in reply to #862238)
Subject: Re: Painting blades





Posts: 2001


Anybody ever use the electrostatic guns?
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