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Posts: 29
| Hey guys, I've been studying on solarez gloss uv finish. Most of the bass guys seem to like it vs the tried and true etex lite, my main concerns are can you expect the same build as etex has with the same amount or less coats? From what I have read baits coated with solarez need to be placed on a turner for around a hour to level out and let brush strokes disappear before curing with a UV light so essentially you could be fishing with a bait that you painted that same day. |
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Posts: 653
Location: Moses Lake, WA | I played around with Solarez about a year and a half ago but experienced batch-to-batch inconsistency even though I was using the recommended UV exposure lights. The material is also slightly more yellow than most epoxies. There's quite a bit of information on Tackle Underground, both good and bad, that you might want to search out. |
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Posts: 29
| Thanks Gringo, I didn't know about it having a yellower look. Did you find solarez to give the same amount of build per coat as etex? |
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Posts: 653
Location: Moses Lake, WA | I use EX88 epoxy as a topcoat and I would say the Solarez is slightly less viscous and therefore thinner but it's not a huge difference. I'll probably use my Solarez to seal wood lures rather than use it as a topcoat. It might also be a little more brittle as a topcoat than epoxy. |
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Posts: 321
Location: Glen Ellyn Il | you will not get a glossy finish with Solarez and the best way is to dip the bait in to the solarez and let the bait drip back in to the can, than rotate in front of a UV light. I use similar product and I believe is much better than Solarez distributed by Make a Lure called Alumi UV
because muskie baits are so much larger than bass baits I made a 2 inch tube from PVC pipe by 10 inch long with a 3 inch by 2 inch reducer at the top, I filled the tube with the Alumi UV and I dip the baits in the tube, I leave the Alumi UV in the tube, I cover the top with kitchen saran wrap. for a thinner coat I use a heat gun to blow over the bait while is dripping, two coats are more than you should need, most important make sure the alumi UV is around 70 degrees for better results. For the UV lights I found a place that has 4 foot lamps and the ballast for the lamps I believe the place is called Grow plants, I also purchase a cheap 9 rpm motor to rotate the bait in front of the two lamps, works great and you can hang multiple baits, I can give the exact place where to purchase the UV lamps, need to find paperwork
Hopefully this helps
Fellow basement hobby musky bait builder
Gino
Found info on UV lightshttp://www.htgsupply.com/products/agromax-4-foot-t5-uv-a-plus-bulb
Edited by spoonpluggergino 4/13/2017 4:49 AM
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Posts: 71
| Spoonpluggergino
How did the Alumi UV hold up, was there any chipping any yellowing, hook rash, bubbles, and do you let it drip back into your dip tube. how long before second dip. Etex is just to wasteful but the best so far, I tried a concrete sealer and had issues with plastic worms, so that's out.
Wayne
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Posts: 321
Location: Glen Ellyn Il | on any these topcoats you must make sure that you have a really good wood sealer that paint sticks to it otherwise no top coat will really hold up, I use Deft, can be found on Amazon, but I really like thinned out very thin Devcon two ton for sealing wood baits. I really like Alumi UV, will not yellow and is tough as nails, I dip the baits and let it drip right back in the can, in my case I made a PVC 10 inch tube so I can dip baits 10 inches long and I leave the alumi UV right in the tube, Life span is one year, I rotate the bait in front of the UV light for 1/2 hour and is hard as a rock, I do two coats, for thinner coat I blow warm air over the bait to drip more Alumi UV off the bait
Gino
PS there is a video if you go to Make a Lure website and there you will see how tough Alumi UV really is
Here is the link to the video
http://www.makelure.com/store/pg/64-MakeLure-Casting-Resins.aspx#pr...
Edited by spoonpluggergino 4/15/2017 3:15 PM
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