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More Muskie Fishing -> Basement Baits and Custom Lure Painting -> Trouble getting double blades started
 
Message Subject: Trouble getting double blades started
joe1977
Posted 6/12/2016 9:26 AM (#820294)
Subject: Trouble getting double blades started




Posts: 81


Hi all,

Anyone have problems getting the blades to start spinning right away on a double inline bait? A couple of my lures require a "pop" or two to get the blades spinning. Any idea what causes this? Some if my lures do it right away and others start after they've hit a couple rocks. Do I need to use different clevises? Different blades (I feel like painted blades are worse). It's not the end of the world, but I've probably rebuilt 15 lures over the last 10 years when this happens.

Thanks in advance

Joe
rougarou
Posted 6/12/2016 10:06 AM (#820300 - in reply to #820294)
Subject: Re: Trouble getting double blades started





Posts: 102


try bending the blades right at the clevis in they will grabe more water should solve problem

mike
ARmuskyaddict
Posted 6/12/2016 12:02 PM (#820312 - in reply to #820300)
Subject: Re: Trouble getting double blades started





Posts: 2004


Painted thin 0.18 blades can be a bugger. Colorados are the worse too. Make sure you pinch the clevis into a better U shape. If you build your own, you will see how they come a little spread out. Be gentle if they are on a bait already or you'll ruin it. It helps, but does not solve it. Stopping the bait and reeling before it hit the water also helps.

Never tried bending the blades rougarou. Do you have a pic of blades you've bent? On another note, that bluegill and perch you sent me look great in the water! No fish on them during my trip, but we couldn't find them either...
JakeStCroixSkis
Posted 6/12/2016 5:34 PM (#820343 - in reply to #820294)
Subject: Re: Trouble getting double blades started





Posts: 1425


Location: St. Lawrence River
Stop the spool with your thumb before the bucktail hits the water. It will straighten out in air and helps them to start better right off the bat.
rougarou
Posted 6/12/2016 5:56 PM (#820345 - in reply to #820294)
Subject: Re: Trouble getting double blades started





Posts: 102


when i say bend the blade it changes the cup worked everytime for me just saying what works for me kinda like when swimbait does not track right you bend theline tie

mike


Edited by rougarou 6/12/2016 6:00 PM
ToddM
Posted 6/12/2016 10:47 PM (#820375 - in reply to #820294)
Subject: Re: Trouble getting double blades started





Posts: 20178


Location: oswego, il
Post a pic of the bucktails you are ha ing trouble with.
Zib
Posted 6/13/2016 11:14 AM (#820414 - in reply to #820294)
Subject: RE: Trouble getting double blades started





Posts: 1405


Location: Detroit River

Clevises don't come out of the package in a perfect "U" shape so they tend to bind a little on the wire shaft so bending them into that perfect "U" shape will help them spin easier. Also check the holes in the clevis for burrs as they will hinder them from spinning as well. Use a solid bead & not a hollow bead under the clevis. Hollow beads have burrs around the holes & they impede the clevis from spinning properly. Also if you troll those burrs on the hollow beads will eventually cut into the clevis causing the blade to come off.

 

Also if the blades are too close to the skirt that will cause them not to spin right away. 

Propster
Posted 6/13/2016 11:22 AM (#820416 - in reply to #820294)
Subject: Re: Trouble getting double blades started




Posts: 1901


Location: MN
Not sure if this may apply in your case, but if you have commercial blades that have any logo stickers or labels on them, or if you have added any to homemade baits - if the label is not completely stuck to the blade, if it is coming up on an edge even a little bit, that will hinder a blade from turning. The minute a label starts coming up we remove completely.

Edited by Propster 6/13/2016 11:23 AM
14ledo81
Posted 6/13/2016 11:34 AM (#820418 - in reply to #820294)
Subject: Re: Trouble getting double blades started





Posts: 4269


Location: Ashland WI
I recieved advice on this forum about a year ago for this problem. I was told to flatten (take a bit of the cup out) of one of the blades. I tapped one a bit with a hammer, and it worked very well.
joe1977
Posted 6/13/2016 8:31 PM (#820498 - in reply to #820294)
Subject: Re: Trouble getting double blades started




Posts: 81


Thanks all. I'll give them a shot and report back.
Reef Hawg
Posted 6/14/2016 5:55 PM (#820589 - in reply to #820294)
Subject: RE: Trouble getting double blades started




Posts: 3518


Location: north central wisconsin
Normally the biggest issue for me seems to come with double 8 colorados. With those, it is important to have the correct 'starter' bead assembly beneath the clevises. I also like a bead above the clevises just so that the clevis can't get hung up in the wire loop from time to time. True clevises, correct spacing of componants, followed by adjustments to blades(flattening or bending) should get you there. Often, just switching to a different set of blades/clevises on a problem lure will do the trick.

Edited by Reef Hawg 6/14/2016 5:55 PM
joe1977
Posted 6/15/2016 9:04 AM (#820637 - in reply to #820294)
Subject: Re: Trouble getting double blades started




Posts: 81


Is there a certain starter bead you guys prefer? I've been using hollow metal beads, but it sounds like that may be part of my problem.
NathanH
Posted 6/15/2016 10:35 AM (#820644 - in reply to #820637)
Subject: Re: Trouble getting double blades started





Posts: 859


Location: MN
You can use the hollow beads but I think solid work much better. What size bead do you have below the clevis currently? And what size blades are you using? I use a number of solid bead sizes to 5/32 on through to 1/4 depending on clevis and blades being used
ARmuskyaddict
Posted 6/15/2016 11:31 AM (#820650 - in reply to #820644)
Subject: Re: Trouble getting double blades started





Posts: 2004


I use a smaller solid bead for smaller blades. Less area to create friction. 5/32 or 1/8.
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