Muskie Discussion Forums

Forums | Calendars | Albums | Quotes | Language | Blogs Search | Statistics | User Listing
You are logged in as a guest. ( logon | register )

Random quote: "Dad watch your rod" (hung up) "Dad your-" SNAP!
- (Added by: CM_IA)

Moderators: Slamr

View previous thread :: View next thread
Jump to page : 1
Now viewing page 1 [30 messages per page]

More Muskie Fishing -> Basement Baits and Custom Lure Painting -> Sealing maple
 
Message Subject: Sealing maple
sharptoothwv
Posted 3/5/2016 10:05 AM (#808650)
Subject: Sealing maple




Posts: 29


I have use a couple different products for sealing I have a high demand now for baits and I want to make sure I'm turning out the best product efficiently. I am currently using shellac and dipping the lure twice then sanding with 320 is this sufficient for maple? I know a lot of guys use Sherwin Williams barrier coat or Zar spar cut with mineral spirits would those be the best route I use createx paint. Thanks
crazywayne
Posted 3/6/2016 8:17 AM (#808716 - in reply to #808650)
Subject: Re: Sealing maple




Posts: 31


I really think that the top coat is more important than the seal, once those toothy creatures break through and get to your seal coat that is where it all starts. To me no matter what your seal coat it only goes so deep. That's why I use either Cedar or a resin lure which is working out for me, plus I just started to use as a top coat some HC Concrete Sealer from Sherwood Williams, the oil based, which can be used as a sealer or top coat. It seems to work for me, although ETex is the best for large Musky lures. Waiting for ice to melt here to do some testing.
sharptoothwv
Posted 3/6/2016 11:02 AM (#808742 - in reply to #808650)
Subject: RE: Sealing maple




Posts: 29


The advantage I found to maple is it is hard and prevents some teeth from penatrating it but I agree once the topcoat is broken everything is jeprodize. With maple being hard and dense it requires less weight to make a subsurface glide bait.
sharptoothwv
Posted 10/3/2016 7:50 PM (#832195 - in reply to #808650)
Subject: Re: Sealing maple




Posts: 29


Bump
esoxessentials
Posted 10/4/2016 8:16 PM (#832355 - in reply to #808650)
Subject: Re: Sealing maple




Posts: 3


I use thinned envirotex, cover with 2-3 more layers of unthinned etex,then finish with 3-4 coats of TrueCoat Epoxy. I always heat my blanks before putting on the thinned etex to get out any possible water that may be in there
esox911
Posted 10/4/2016 10:37 PM (#832373 - in reply to #808650)
Subject: Re: Sealing maple




Posts: 556


I use a OIL BASE SANDING SEALER----Basically the same way you do---I have baits I have been using and catching fish on that are 5 yrs old---Some have teeth marks and hook rash that has even reached the wood ( cedar and maple ) in certain areas. Lures still work great and the paint and finish is still holding------I think they will last many more seasons even with the top coat compromise.... Sometimes I think some worry way to much about this issue. I have 20yr old SUICKS that have 1/2 the paint missing--and still work fine and still catch fish.... I think what you are doing will work fine and last a long time--especially with the MAPLE WOOD your using..
spoonpluggergino
Posted 10/6/2016 8:50 PM (#832536 - in reply to #808650)
Subject: Re: Sealing maple





Posts: 321


Location: Glen Ellyn Il
I used all kinds of sealers and the one that I only use now, that also the saltwater guys use is Deft sanding sealer great stuff, some time Lowes has it, I order mine on line from Amazon, due a search it will come up
Gino
Jump to page : 1
Now viewing page 1 [30 messages per page]
Jump to forum :
Search this forum
Printer friendly version
E-mail a link to this thread

(Delete all cookies set by this site)