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Posts: 13688
Location: minocqua, wi. | I'll start it out with a couple ...
1. Double Your Line for Cranking and Ripping around Rocks ... simply take the end of your line and bring it as far up the main line as you want "doubled" and then pinch the end of the line and main line in one hand, then using the loop end simply tie and overhand knot where you are pinching the end. trim and you have doubled line down to the leader that will be less prone to break if frayed by rocks. this is a simple and logical trick i learned from Herbie ...
2. Tying Braid to Fluoro Direct ... this knot is a great one and i really see benefits tying fluoro leaders directly to braid for smallie, walleye and panfish fishing. it allows me to keep the same lightweight braid on the spool at all times without having to switch out the mainline. i just manage line wt. of leaders depending on what i'm fishing and at least i've come to believe that fluoro makes at all leader weights. once you practice a few times it's easy to tie anywhere and under any conditions with any line-weight.
http://www.fishcrack.com/fishing-101-how-to-tie-the-fg-knot-stronge... |
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| That FG knot is way cool!! I used to use an Albright but if it's not perfect they do fail and, if you're using heavy mono, the albright has a tendency to cause line twist. The FG is a little scary but I tested it last spring on some really giant fish with zero failures!
For the double line check out the spider hitch. Super easy to tie and disperses the pressure over several twists vs. a single overhand. Not that you would put enough pressure on an overhand in most situations to cut itself.
The other thing I've learned by messing with giant saltwater fish is the strength of a correctly executed single crimp! Super easy to do, tiny profile, clean and crazy strong! I use 130-150 max seguar and have landed so many giants without a single failure it's crazy! I've literally pulled 150+ lb Goliaths around towers and rocks and concrete on 130 mono! Broken hooks, rods and reels and never a broken crimp! |
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Posts: 1969
| spider hitch is easy and for most application more than fine... but when we fish offshore (tuna, marlin, etc) we always use a Bimini twist - you just can't beat it for strength when you want to double your line... actually easy too once you do a dozen or so  ... And Ben is dead on with his crimp comments .. no saltwater guys tie fluorocarbon over 80 LB. |
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Posts: 13688
Location: minocqua, wi. | IAJustin - 2/8/2016 2:50 PM
spider hitch is easy and for most application more than fine... but when we fish offshore (tuna, marlin, etc ) we always use a Bimini twist - you just can't beat it for strength when you want to double your line... actually easy too once you do a dozen or so ... And Ben is dead on with his crimp comments .. no saltwater guys tie fluorocarbon over 80 LB.
great tip! ... just youtubed it if anyone is interested to see it, looks simple, easy and strong.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WvnVUYSfOhg |
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Posts: 1198
Location: Walker, MN | I have had success using a sebile knot which is basically an FG, but I find it easier to tie. The only part I ever have trouble with is tying it off without slack between the half-hitches. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1N0mCf0AIAA
Also, if you are using 80# Flouro or less, the figure 8 tarpon loop seems to really hold up. I use it on both the hook and swivel end of my 80# grouper rigs and 80# down-sized spring set-ups. http://intheriffle.com/fishing-videos/knots/figure-eight-tarpon-loo...
Edited by Masqui-ninja 2/8/2016 8:07 PM
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Posts: 3518
Location: north central wisconsin | Been running the Albright for Musky/Halibut/Salmon and the J knot for walleye/panfish/bass. The Albright is annoying in guides and pulls out at times. The J knot is great if done right, which can be difficult with cold hands and wind. I am definately going to give that FG a whirl. Looks to be a cinch... Thank you. |
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| IAJustin - 2/8/2016 2:50 PM
spider hitch is easy and for most application more than fine... but when we fish offshore (tuna, marlin, etc ) we always use a Bimini twist - you just can't beat it for strength when you want to double your line... actually easy too once you do a dozen or so ... And Ben is dead on with his crimp comments .. no saltwater guys tie fluorocarbon over 80 LB.
Totally agree on the Bimini for trolling...both the spider and the bimini are near 100% strength. The spider is only for doubling the line whereas the bimini performs a mechanical function. The knot itself builds in some shock absorption...When you spin the line over the twisted part it holds the two twisted legs contracted...so, when a tuna, wahoo, marlin ect slams a bait trolled 5-15 knots..the knot provides some stretch in otherwise no-stretch line.
I also prefer to use both legs of the double line to tie to the leader...I avoid loop to loop or "no name" type knots. Those connections only use the strength of the single main line. You've doubled it so you might as well use its full doubled strength. Instead I treat the double line as one...then use FG, double uni, blood or surgeons to my leader material.
Since we're totally out of the muskie realm I'll add one more...Those Owner soft glow beads are a staple in my boat. They make a great bumper between swivels and your rod tip. They also are essential when using live bait and circle hooks. Circle hooks in still water or when surf fishing or when pitching live bait to sighted/teased fish have a tendency to double hook(flip back on the bait and cover the hook tip). To avoid this, I thread on a soft glow bead first then the bait. The bead can be adjusted to hold the bait deep enough to expose the hook tip but keep it shallow enough to prevent double hooking. This is essential when flipping Threads to Tarpon, using a popping cork with Pilchards for Reds, skipping Pilchards under mangroves to Snook and pitching Ballyhoo/goggles/cigar minnows to sighted/teased sails.
Edited by Ben Olsen 2/8/2016 10:57 PM
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Posts: 16632
Location: The desert | Good tips here. Thanks for sharing.
I'd like to add: when in doubt, granny out. |
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Posts: 20178
Location: oswego, il | This is a great thread. Use the Albright knot alot for non musky fishing all the time. I use it on the cooling lakes on my spinning rods with nanofil and 15lb flouro on medium spinning and baitcasting, 10lb on my ultralight. I learned the hard way putting 10lb on baitcasting a nice fish will break the leader with a quick run boatside. Something has to give and it is the leader. I use the knot for salmon too, 25ft flouro leaders off of 30lb braid. I could use that knot for copper and leadcore to my leader but use a tiny swivel and made my own wire connections from 105lb wire.
For suckers with a bobber, I use the planer board clip. I do use a different clip though I use the offshore with the pin, was enough to take off and not have to chase. You can set the sucker to any depth you want.
Edited by ToddM 2/9/2016 6:53 AM
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Posts: 13688
Location: minocqua, wi. | the Bimini Twist will be a great one for salmon flies ...
Another great tip I learned at AML quite a few years ago from Bill (can't remember his last name) who spends like a month there each year. on the EDIT: front hook of a double 10, disconnect the hook and add a 2-way swivel and attach it to the split ring and the hook. this allows the hook to swing further away from the shaft and not get tangled in the tinsel. it also swings more freely to anchor into a fish. I don't look at a lot of baits and maybe someone is doing this from the factory (basement) by now, but it's a great thing to make your double 10's work even better. if it's a Dadson, it's recommended to use a 24k Gold Swivel.
Edited by jonnysled 2/9/2016 7:35 AM
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Posts: 16632
Location: The desert | jonnysled - 2/9/2016 7:03 AM
the Bimini Twist will be a great one for salmon flies ...
Another great tip I learned at AML quite a few years ago from Bill (can't remember his last name) who spends like a month there each year. on the rear hook of a double 10, disconnect the hook and add a 2-way swivel and attach it to the split ring and the hook. this allows the hook to swing further away from the shaft and not get tangled in the tinsel. it also swings more freely to anchor into a fish. I don't look at a lot of baits and maybe someone is doing this from the factory (basement) by now, but it's a great thing to make your double 10's work even better. if it's a Dadson, it's recommended to use a 24k Gold Swivel.
You can accomplish the same thing with some heat shrink around the shaft of the hook. |
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Posts: 859
Location: MN | The soft glow beads are a great idea! What size do folks use? Size five looks like the ticket. I'm going to use these all the time next year
Edited by NathanH 2/9/2016 7:34 AM
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Posts: 1220
| I guess I'll add a little "salt" too having just returned from 5 weeks of fishing there. I spent a lot of time examining their gear and really had to give an open mind to my default rejection of crimps on musky leaders thus far. I totally see what toothy monsters are captured on hooks the size for a tow truck and just having a single crimp. But, I'll fall back on my critique of so many other things of a similar nature requiring considerable talent. You say, "I've crimped a thousand and never had a problem," and I'll say, "Keep doing it!" But, if you say, "I think I'm going to try that next summer on my one-week trip to LOTW and see how it works," I say (like Dirty Harry) "Do you feel lucky? Well do ya-punk?" All I'm sayin is if you are going to crimp floro...you better have practiced. Squeeze too soft and the fish is gone, squeeze too hard and the fish is gone! |
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Posts: 13688
Location: minocqua, wi. | Pointerpride102 - 2/9/2016 7:17 AM
jonnysled - 2/9/2016 7:03 AM
the Bimini Twist will be a great one for salmon flies ...
Another great tip I learned at AML quite a few years ago from Bill (can't remember his last name) who spends like a month there each year. on the rear hook of a double 10, disconnect the hook and add a 2-way swivel and attach it to the split ring and the hook. this allows the hook to swing further away from the shaft and not get tangled in the tinsel. it also swings more freely to anchor into a fish. I don't look at a lot of baits and maybe someone is doing this from the factory (basement) by now, but it's a great thing to make your double 10's work even better. if it's a Dadson, it's recommended to use a 24k Gold Swivel.
You can accomplish the same thing with some heat shrink around the shaft of the hook.
my bad ... the hook i should be referencing is the front hook ... closest to the eye. the hook that ends up tangling in the tinsel.
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Posts: 1901
Location: MN | Junkman - 2/9/2016 7:26 AM
Squeeze too soft and the fish is gone, squeeze too hard and the fish is gone!
With the right size double sleeve Marty you can't hardly screw it up. Even you and me. The trick is to not crimp it right at the ends of the sleeve where the flouro can more easily contact the edge. Leave it "open" on the ends if you will. |
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Posts: 284
Location: Eagan, MN | When crimping, do what the salt water guides do.
Edited by BrianF. 2/9/2016 9:46 AM
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Posts: 13688
Location: minocqua, wi. | Another Rigging Tip ... this one i think is a Nelson original tip, but it's a great way to stabilize rods and keep them away and safe while towing, driving around and fishing.
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Location: Contrarian Island | I stole that from TSpilde..  it's a good one tho... BrianF has the crimping tip right..I have crimped my leaders that way and have had zero failures at the crimp... tag the end, and don't over crimp you'll be fine!
most of us use 80 lb line... leaders at a much higher lb test...the knot on your line will fail before the leaders if done right...that is for sure
another good one for those us that are "pulsers" is to put a riser on the momentary button on the terrova.. I found that it is way to small/narrow and I was always accidentally hitting the left and right when I just wanted to pulse the motor...so I came up w the idea to add a riser, maybe 3/4" or so to it (and some handy Glowin Outdoors tape to it) solved that problem... pic below is before tape.. I cut the tape to the size of the riser, put the glow tape on, then screwed it in.. so tape is under screws... works slick
Edited by BNelson 2/9/2016 10:41 AM
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Posts: 1969
| I mushroom the end on my leaders for a clean finish.. if you don't your leader picks up weeds... I will say be VERY careful with Brian's "tip" - that mushroom end is not going to save you if you don't crimp properly.... I've fished with a least a dozen great saltwater guides... they crimp Flouro all day on the boat... never seen a one "tag" an end. |
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Posts: 120
| I love the Bimini Twist for doubled line applications. I guess I'm a knot nerd, but I think they're super fun to tie as well. I use the "improved" Albright for braid to fluro connections. I've tried the FG knot and would repeat the finishing half hitches need to be TIGHT or you'll end up watching your fish swim away with your leader and bait in it's trap. It would have been embarrassing, but fortunately I was fishing with flambeauski and don't have a reputation to damage. I also like the bumper beads, especially in between the sinker slide and swivel connecting the main line to the leader on a bottom rig. I usually will slip a light leader sleeve down the middle of the bead to keep it from jamming on the swivel eye and restricting its motion. |
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Location: Grand Rapids, MI | BNelson - 2/9/2016 10:19 AM another good one for those us that are "pulsers" is to put a riser on the momentary button on the terrova.. I found that it is way to small/narrow and I was always accidentally hitting the left and right when I just wanted to pulse the motor...so I cam up w the idea to add a riser, maybe 3/4" or so to it (and some handy Glowin Outdoors tape to it) solved that problem... pic below is before tape.. I cut the tape to the size of the riser, put the glow tape on, then screwed it in.. so tape is under screws... works slick Great minds... I did a similar mod to the Terrova pedal using a rubber grommet (see link) and simply super glued it on the momentary button. http://www.amazon.com/Rubber-Grommet-Groove-Diameter-Durometer/dp/B... I questioned the durability a little but three seasons later it's still there and solved their design problem.
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Location: Contrarian Island | another simple one is to take a rod holder thing like this http://www.basspro.com/Bass-Pro-Shops-Poly-Rod-Strap-Rod-Holder/pro... ... put it on your back deck or wherever you normally net / unhook fish where the handle would sit... on my 690 I put one on top of the battery compartment right in the middle running parallel w the boat...put net handle under it while you are unhooking/ getting bump board ready etc... I see so many guys on the water with fish in the net and watching the net handle flopping all over and the fish about getting away..simple..easy!
can be seen in this pic
Edited by BNelson 2/9/2016 10:47 AM
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Posts: 13688
Location: minocqua, wi. | another nice rigging trick i put on my trailer (don't have a picture handy) ... but i mounted a ratchet strap on the front post of my trailer to use as a safety latch, so winch the boat up with the winch strap and then also secure the ratchet strap. tight, snug and quick!! |
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Posts: 3518
Location: north central wisconsin | jonnysled - 2/9/2016 7:03 AM
Another great tip I learned at AML quite a few years ago from Bill (can't remember his last name) who spends like a month there each year. on the EDIT: front hook of a double 10, disconnect the hook and add a 2-way swivel and attach it to the split ring and the hook. this allows the hook to swing further away from the shaft and not get tangled in the tinsel. it also swings more freely to anchor into a fish.
Good tip. We run a piece of shrink tubing down the shank of the hook to the bend, dab of hot glue or epoxy on bottom of hook where bends come together as I shrink the tube, eliminating that faction of flash-tangle as well which aids in hooking and lessens lure rolling at the same time.
Edited by Reef Hawg 2/9/2016 12:43 PM
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Posts: 1198
Location: Walker, MN | This one has been mentioned before but works great. Putting a hook with the point and barb cut off at the line end of a long trolling leader works great for catching weeds before they foul your bait.
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Location: Eastern Ontario | Masqui-ninja - 2/9/2016 5:44 PM
This one has been mentioned before but works great. Putting a hook with the point and barb cut off at the line end of a long trolling leader works great for catching weeds before they foul your bait.
I did that for a few years and put it into my hand twice and had it tangle in the net more than once. I now take a 3 inch piece of vinyl tubing and cut 4 slits in one end about 2 inches long splay them out and string in your line ahead of the leader with the fingers facing the reel Some place a bead in the fingers to keep them splayed but not necessary and wont catch in the net.
You can also take a 6 inch piece of weed whacker line and knot it in the top swivel of a leader with 3 inches hanging out each side it will keep your lure weed free for a long time.
Edited by horsehunter 2/9/2016 5:02 PM
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Posts: 13688
Location: minocqua, wi. | this one might be obvious and i can't remember who showed it to me or when but with rods not in use after latching your snap to the hook holder near the reel seat, take the line in one finger in the middle and make a couple rotations of the rod and then secure it over an eyelet. this way you never have lines and multiple rods getting tangled up in themselves when laying together in a pile.
^great tip on the weed whacker line Frank!! ... that one's worth remembering. |
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Location: new richmond, wi. & isle, mn | jonnysled - 2/9/2016 5:27 PM
this one might be obvious and i can't remember who showed it to me or when but with rods not in use after latching your snap to the hook holder near the reel seat, take the line in one finger in the middle and make a couple rotations of the rod and then secure it over an eyelet. this way you never have lines and multiple rods getting tangled up in themselves when laying together in a pile.
^great tip on the weed whacker line Frank!! ... that one's worth remembering. Great tip! I learned this years ago from a gal that was on a old Saturday morning fishing show. Funny how it's caught on with the circle I fish with. |
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Posts: 2752
Location: Mauston, Wisconsin | 1. How to tie flouro leaders from Ranger....no crimps involved, today I can tie 180lb if I want to, the fundamental issue with crimps on either mono or flouro is that the material will cold flow so the cross sectional area of material in the crimped area is reduced to the crimp area diameter. That effectively makes your leader weaker than what you think it is. I have been tieing flouro for ~ 14 years... no knot failures. Yes, Norm - no bite off's either.....The only failure I've had is when I tied powerpro 65lb directly to a 80lb fluoro loop at end of the leader with a Palomar. The superline cut the flouro while trolling for trophy walleyes when it got hooked up on a submerged tree - this was in the early days, I was able to see the lure and retrieve it, and see what happened. All of those leaders got reworked...immediately as we sat in the boat.
Now I use back to back nail knots (cinch knots - using a tie-fast tool) to connect my superbraid to the flouro leader.
2. From Howie Meyer - Pay very close attention to all the little stuff....it bites to loose big fish because of hardware, knot's, snaps, etc. Eliminate as many points of failure as possible...
3. From Beaver Slivinski = T- the front & belly hooks on crank baits, jerk baits, and twitch baits, it keeps the lure from looking like the bottom two middle one - "Drive By" Lil Ernie & Stump Knocker Jake below. All are Stan Durst paints...
Its hard enough just getting hooked up with a really big fish... the FG knot looks interesting, thanks.
Have fun!
Al
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Posts: 13688
Location: minocqua, wi. | ESOX Maniac - 2/9/2016 6:12 PM
the fundamental issue with crimps on either mono or flouro is that the material will cold flow so the cross sectional area of material in the crimped area is reduced to the crimp area diameter. That effectively makes your leader weaker than what you think it is.
Stick to Electrical ...
Signed ... Chem E ...
Edited by jonnysled 2/9/2016 6:21 PM
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