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Posts: 50
Location: Madison, WI | I have a question for you guys about these brushes. I'm on somewhat of a strict budget so I've tried the siphon fed and gravity fed Neo brushes, and both of them have let me paint about 2 baits, and then they literally just stop spraying paint. They seem to be garbage. I'm cleaning them and running cleaner through the brush between each color and always cleaning at the end. Is there a better way of cleaning them, and I'm just an idiot? Or is it time for me to upgrade to a real Iwata? Sorry for the rant, I'm just trying to find a reliable brush that will actually last.
What are your guys go to brushes??
Thanks fellas! |
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Posts: 411
Location: Waconia,MN | Are u cleaning the needle off while you paint, you may be getting a lot of tip dry. |
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Posts: 50
Location: Madison, WI | Yea, i've been pretty spot on with cleaning, including the tip. The brush just stops spraying and it has a super weak airflow
Your baits are beyond incredible by the way
Edited by abergendahl 4/24/2015 2:27 PM
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Posts: 791
Location: WI | I have painted over 1000 baits with a Neo. I have a number of brushes but use this one for about 75% of my painting. There is something more here. What kind of compressor? What pressure. What type of paint. |
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Posts: 50
Location: Madison, WI | Well thats whats interesting is its just a harbor freight compressor, but its worked great with other brushes and i never have a problem with other brushes, only the neo. The pressure is typically at about 30 and i use createx paints.
Andrew, what do you do to keep paint from collecting and clogging the gravity feed brush? Or are you a siphon fed guy? I love your baits, and really value your opinion on this stuff, thanks for chiming in |
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Posts: 791
Location: WI | Mine is a gravity cup. I use it for everything except primer and the fine detail. I have two other higher end iwata a for detail. I use lacquer though. I have used it for small amounts of water based paints but my guess is you need to reduce your paint.
If you know me you know how much I paint and I would highly recommend the Neo. But I just don't know much about water Born paints |
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Posts: 50
Location: Madison, WI | Thanks a ton for your ideas. I'll play around with reducing paint more and see what happens. I'm glad you like the neo though, it seemed like such a great airbrush! |
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Posts: 411
Location: Waconia,MN | I agree with Andy try reducing. I use createx, wicked, and auto air and they all need to be reduced to some point. Sometimes it only takes a drop. With createx colors i use plain distilled water and it seems to work fine, i have found that the transparent color tend not to have a need to be reduced. White is a different story altogether, i can't every seem to get the white right, i hate spraying white. |
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Posts: 50
Location: Madison, WI | you guys rock. thanks for your input. I will definitely try reducing even more and see if it makes a difference. |
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Posts: 115
| I just started airbrushing recently with a gravity fed neo and it sounds like reducing is what you need to do. They say to make your paint about the consistency of milk for best results. Opaque colors are the thickest and white is the worst. When i reduce white im using more reducer than actual paint. Watch some youtube vids about reducing airbrush paint and i think it will help. |
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Posts: 10
| i use neo as well,the only things i can tell you is that createx paints are not the easiest to use,the right reduce ratio is about 5(water):3(colour) ,it's really important to reduce the colours in the right way,cause if you don't do it in the right way the airbrush will not spray the colour well |
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Posts: 16
| My go to solution for questionable problems is to try spraying straight water. If it will spray water then it most likely isn't the air brush. Odd that it will spray long enough to spray one lure then give trouble with out it being tip dry. Good luck |
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Posts: 1202
Location: Money, PA | Createx makes a great reducer called High Performance Reducer...try to order some of that and add just a drop or two. Certain paints dry quicker on the tip than others...reds, black, white especially. I typically do not reduce any of my paints, but if I do need to, I never use water...only the reducer. I found water will sometime lead to spotting or fish eyes. When I work with the above named colors, I work fast and need to spray and clean the needle tip often if doing high quantities.
Good Luck
Iwata HP-CS is all I use.
Edited by ShutUpNFish 4/29/2015 12:11 PM
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Posts: 4266
| I have a gravity fed and a siphon fed and I've never had a problem. The only time that I spray continuously is when I'm priming a batch of lures and even then, with the paint thinned properly, I still don't have problems like you're talking about.
You'll have to test things one at a time to make sure that you don't have a weak link.
Good pressure with no leaks in any of the connections.
Paint that is thinned properly and not collecting on the tip.
I don't know what kind or type of paint you are spraying, but you should clean the brush when you change colors. You shouldn't have to take it apart. I only do that when I'm done with a session. Then I make sure to wipe down the needle and run thinner through the brush and attack it with a cotton swab.
Let us know when you find out what the problem is, because I've been using Iwatas for as long as I've been making lures and I don't have a bad word to say about them.
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Posts: 2687
Location: Hayward, WI | How do you guys clean the tip during a painting session? It seems like I can only go just so long spraying Createx before I start getting spitting and sputtering too. I have thinned the paint quite a bit with a home brew recipe I read about somewhere.
I've dipped a cotton ball in Windex (ammonia free) and use that to lightly clean the needle and airbrush tip but still end up with some buildup after a while that sometimes leads to clogging and spitting.
Might need to try a different reducer like Paul mentioned above too. |
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Posts: 791
Location: WI | Beaver, you don't have these issues because you use automotive paints like I do. He is using water born paint. |
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Posts: 4266
| That answers it, but I was wondering why it was happening.
As far as cleaning the tip while painting, I keep a small amount of reducer nearby, and draw a little out with a plastic siphon and put it over the tip and squeeze it back into the brush and I also spray reducer through the brush into a sponge that I keep tight over the tip. The reducer that comes through gets caught in the sponge and cleans the tip at the same time.
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Location: varies | For those who use automotive paints and the like, What do you do for ventilation? any worries of combustion since those types of paints are flammable? Will those little benchtop portable paint booths work or is that too risky being the fan motors are in with the fan blades.? I was looking into an exhaust fan with external motor but they are just too big for hobby benchtop booth applications. |
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Posts: 791
Location: WI | A friend of mine built me a booth with an external fan works quiet well. I am an electrician so I got the motor and made a control that when you turn the switch for the compressor on it automatically turns the vent on. I wired in a time off delay so that when the switch( compressor ) is turned off the exhaust fan runs for 2 min. I wouldn't recommend this small hobbie booths because they are not suitable for flammable paints |
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