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Location: minocqua, wi. | I'll start it out with a couple ...
1. Double Your Line for Cranking and Ripping around Rocks ... simply take the end of your line and bring it as far up the main line as you want "doubled" and then pinch the end of the line and main line in one hand, then using the loop end simply tie and overhand knot where you are pinching the end. trim and you have doubled line down to the leader that will be less prone to break if frayed by rocks. this is a simple and logical trick i learned from Herbie ...
2. Tying Braid to Fluoro Direct ... this knot is a great one and i really see benefits tying fluoro leaders directly to braid for smallie, walleye and panfish fishing. it allows me to keep the same lightweight braid on the spool at all times without having to switch out the mainline. i just manage line wt. of leaders depending on what i'm fishing and at least i've come to believe that fluoro makes at all leader weights. once you practice a few times it's easy to tie anywhere and under any conditions with any line-weight.
http://www.fishcrack.com/fishing-101-how-to-tie-the-fg-knot-stronge... |
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| That FG knot is way cool!! I used to use an Albright but if it's not perfect they do fail and, if you're using heavy mono, the albright has a tendency to cause line twist. The FG is a little scary but I tested it last spring on some really giant fish with zero failures!
For the double line check out the spider hitch. Super easy to tie and disperses the pressure over several twists vs. a single overhand. Not that you would put enough pressure on an overhand in most situations to cut itself.
The other thing I've learned by messing with giant saltwater fish is the strength of a correctly executed single crimp! Super easy to do, tiny profile, clean and crazy strong! I use 130-150 max seguar and have landed so many giants without a single failure it's crazy! I've literally pulled 150+ lb Goliaths around towers and rocks and concrete on 130 mono! Broken hooks, rods and reels and never a broken crimp! |
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Posts: 1970
| spider hitch is easy and for most application more than fine... but when we fish offshore (tuna, marlin, etc) we always use a Bimini twist - you just can't beat it for strength when you want to double your line... actually easy too once you do a dozen or so  ... And Ben is dead on with his crimp comments .. no saltwater guys tie fluorocarbon over 80 LB. |
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Location: minocqua, wi. | IAJustin - 2/8/2016 2:50 PM
spider hitch is easy and for most application more than fine... but when we fish offshore (tuna, marlin, etc ) we always use a Bimini twist - you just can't beat it for strength when you want to double your line... actually easy too once you do a dozen or so ... And Ben is dead on with his crimp comments .. no saltwater guys tie fluorocarbon over 80 LB.
great tip! ... just youtubed it if anyone is interested to see it, looks simple, easy and strong.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WvnVUYSfOhg |
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Posts: 1200
Location: Walker, MN | I have had success using a sebile knot which is basically an FG, but I find it easier to tie. The only part I ever have trouble with is tying it off without slack between the half-hitches. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1N0mCf0AIAA
Also, if you are using 80# Flouro or less, the figure 8 tarpon loop seems to really hold up. I use it on both the hook and swivel end of my 80# grouper rigs and 80# down-sized spring set-ups. http://intheriffle.com/fishing-videos/knots/figure-eight-tarpon-loo...
Edited by Masqui-ninja 2/8/2016 8:07 PM
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Location: north central wisconsin | Been running the Albright for Musky/Halibut/Salmon and the J knot for walleye/panfish/bass. The Albright is annoying in guides and pulls out at times. The J knot is great if done right, which can be difficult with cold hands and wind. I am definately going to give that FG a whirl. Looks to be a cinch... Thank you. |
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| IAJustin - 2/8/2016 2:50 PM
spider hitch is easy and for most application more than fine... but when we fish offshore (tuna, marlin, etc ) we always use a Bimini twist - you just can't beat it for strength when you want to double your line... actually easy too once you do a dozen or so ... And Ben is dead on with his crimp comments .. no saltwater guys tie fluorocarbon over 80 LB.
Totally agree on the Bimini for trolling...both the spider and the bimini are near 100% strength. The spider is only for doubling the line whereas the bimini performs a mechanical function. The knot itself builds in some shock absorption...When you spin the line over the twisted part it holds the two twisted legs contracted...so, when a tuna, wahoo, marlin ect slams a bait trolled 5-15 knots..the knot provides some stretch in otherwise no-stretch line.
I also prefer to use both legs of the double line to tie to the leader...I avoid loop to loop or "no name" type knots. Those connections only use the strength of the single main line. You've doubled it so you might as well use its full doubled strength. Instead I treat the double line as one...then use FG, double uni, blood or surgeons to my leader material.
Since we're totally out of the muskie realm I'll add one more...Those Owner soft glow beads are a staple in my boat. They make a great bumper between swivels and your rod tip. They also are essential when using live bait and circle hooks. Circle hooks in still water or when surf fishing or when pitching live bait to sighted/teased fish have a tendency to double hook(flip back on the bait and cover the hook tip). To avoid this, I thread on a soft glow bead first then the bait. The bead can be adjusted to hold the bait deep enough to expose the hook tip but keep it shallow enough to prevent double hooking. This is essential when flipping Threads to Tarpon, using a popping cork with Pilchards for Reds, skipping Pilchards under mangroves to Snook and pitching Ballyhoo/goggles/cigar minnows to sighted/teased sails.
Edited by Ben Olsen 2/8/2016 10:57 PM
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Location: The desert | Good tips here. Thanks for sharing.
I'd like to add: when in doubt, granny out. |
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Location: oswego, il | This is a great thread. Use the Albright knot alot for non musky fishing all the time. I use it on the cooling lakes on my spinning rods with nanofil and 15lb flouro on medium spinning and baitcasting, 10lb on my ultralight. I learned the hard way putting 10lb on baitcasting a nice fish will break the leader with a quick run boatside. Something has to give and it is the leader. I use the knot for salmon too, 25ft flouro leaders off of 30lb braid. I could use that knot for copper and leadcore to my leader but use a tiny swivel and made my own wire connections from 105lb wire.
For suckers with a bobber, I use the planer board clip. I do use a different clip though I use the offshore with the pin, was enough to take off and not have to chase. You can set the sucker to any depth you want.
Edited by ToddM 2/9/2016 6:53 AM
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Location: minocqua, wi. | the Bimini Twist will be a great one for salmon flies ...
Another great tip I learned at AML quite a few years ago from Bill (can't remember his last name) who spends like a month there each year. on the EDIT: front hook of a double 10, disconnect the hook and add a 2-way swivel and attach it to the split ring and the hook. this allows the hook to swing further away from the shaft and not get tangled in the tinsel. it also swings more freely to anchor into a fish. I don't look at a lot of baits and maybe someone is doing this from the factory (basement) by now, but it's a great thing to make your double 10's work even better. if it's a Dadson, it's recommended to use a 24k Gold Swivel.
Edited by jonnysled 2/9/2016 7:35 AM
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Location: The desert | jonnysled - 2/9/2016 7:03 AM
the Bimini Twist will be a great one for salmon flies ...
Another great tip I learned at AML quite a few years ago from Bill (can't remember his last name) who spends like a month there each year. on the rear hook of a double 10, disconnect the hook and add a 2-way swivel and attach it to the split ring and the hook. this allows the hook to swing further away from the shaft and not get tangled in the tinsel. it also swings more freely to anchor into a fish. I don't look at a lot of baits and maybe someone is doing this from the factory (basement) by now, but it's a great thing to make your double 10's work even better. if it's a Dadson, it's recommended to use a 24k Gold Swivel.
You can accomplish the same thing with some heat shrink around the shaft of the hook. |
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Location: MN | The soft glow beads are a great idea! What size do folks use? Size five looks like the ticket. I'm going to use these all the time next year
Edited by NathanH 2/9/2016 7:34 AM
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| I guess I'll add a little "salt" too having just returned from 5 weeks of fishing there. I spent a lot of time examining their gear and really had to give an open mind to my default rejection of crimps on musky leaders thus far. I totally see what toothy monsters are captured on hooks the size for a tow truck and just having a single crimp. But, I'll fall back on my critique of so many other things of a similar nature requiring considerable talent. You say, "I've crimped a thousand and never had a problem," and I'll say, "Keep doing it!" But, if you say, "I think I'm going to try that next summer on my one-week trip to LOTW and see how it works," I say (like Dirty Harry) "Do you feel lucky? Well do ya-punk?" All I'm sayin is if you are going to crimp floro...you better have practiced. Squeeze too soft and the fish is gone, squeeze too hard and the fish is gone! |
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Location: minocqua, wi. | Pointerpride102 - 2/9/2016 7:17 AM
jonnysled - 2/9/2016 7:03 AM
the Bimini Twist will be a great one for salmon flies ...
Another great tip I learned at AML quite a few years ago from Bill (can't remember his last name) who spends like a month there each year. on the rear hook of a double 10, disconnect the hook and add a 2-way swivel and attach it to the split ring and the hook. this allows the hook to swing further away from the shaft and not get tangled in the tinsel. it also swings more freely to anchor into a fish. I don't look at a lot of baits and maybe someone is doing this from the factory (basement) by now, but it's a great thing to make your double 10's work even better. if it's a Dadson, it's recommended to use a 24k Gold Swivel.
You can accomplish the same thing with some heat shrink around the shaft of the hook.
my bad ... the hook i should be referencing is the front hook ... closest to the eye. the hook that ends up tangling in the tinsel.
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Location: MN | Junkman - 2/9/2016 7:26 AM
Squeeze too soft and the fish is gone, squeeze too hard and the fish is gone!
With the right size double sleeve Marty you can't hardly screw it up. Even you and me. The trick is to not crimp it right at the ends of the sleeve where the flouro can more easily contact the edge. Leave it "open" on the ends if you will. |
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Location: Eagan, MN | When crimping, do what the salt water guides do.
Edited by BrianF. 2/9/2016 9:46 AM
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Location: minocqua, wi. | Another Rigging Tip ... this one i think is a Nelson original tip, but it's a great way to stabilize rods and keep them away and safe while towing, driving around and fishing.
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Location: Contrarian Island | I stole that from TSpilde..  it's a good one tho... BrianF has the crimping tip right..I have crimped my leaders that way and have had zero failures at the crimp... tag the end, and don't over crimp you'll be fine!
most of us use 80 lb line... leaders at a much higher lb test...the knot on your line will fail before the leaders if done right...that is for sure
another good one for those us that are "pulsers" is to put a riser on the momentary button on the terrova.. I found that it is way to small/narrow and I was always accidentally hitting the left and right when I just wanted to pulse the motor...so I came up w the idea to add a riser, maybe 3/4" or so to it (and some handy Glowin Outdoors tape to it) solved that problem... pic below is before tape.. I cut the tape to the size of the riser, put the glow tape on, then screwed it in.. so tape is under screws... works slick
Edited by BNelson 2/9/2016 10:41 AM
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Posts: 1970
| I mushroom the end on my leaders for a clean finish.. if you don't your leader picks up weeds... I will say be VERY careful with Brian's "tip" - that mushroom end is not going to save you if you don't crimp properly.... I've fished with a least a dozen great saltwater guides... they crimp Flouro all day on the boat... never seen a one "tag" an end. |
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| I love the Bimini Twist for doubled line applications. I guess I'm a knot nerd, but I think they're super fun to tie as well. I use the "improved" Albright for braid to fluro connections. I've tried the FG knot and would repeat the finishing half hitches need to be TIGHT or you'll end up watching your fish swim away with your leader and bait in it's trap. It would have been embarrassing, but fortunately I was fishing with flambeauski and don't have a reputation to damage. I also like the bumper beads, especially in between the sinker slide and swivel connecting the main line to the leader on a bottom rig. I usually will slip a light leader sleeve down the middle of the bead to keep it from jamming on the swivel eye and restricting its motion. |
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Location: Grand Rapids, MI | BNelson - 2/9/2016 10:19 AM another good one for those us that are "pulsers" is to put a riser on the momentary button on the terrova.. I found that it is way to small/narrow and I was always accidentally hitting the left and right when I just wanted to pulse the motor...so I cam up w the idea to add a riser, maybe 3/4" or so to it (and some handy Glowin Outdoors tape to it) solved that problem... pic below is before tape.. I cut the tape to the size of the riser, put the glow tape on, then screwed it in.. so tape is under screws... works slick Great minds... I did a similar mod to the Terrova pedal using a rubber grommet (see link) and simply super glued it on the momentary button. http://www.amazon.com/Rubber-Grommet-Groove-Diameter-Durometer/dp/B... I questioned the durability a little but three seasons later it's still there and solved their design problem.
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Location: Contrarian Island | another simple one is to take a rod holder thing like this http://www.basspro.com/Bass-Pro-Shops-Poly-Rod-Strap-Rod-Holder/pro... ... put it on your back deck or wherever you normally net / unhook fish where the handle would sit... on my 690 I put one on top of the battery compartment right in the middle running parallel w the boat...put net handle under it while you are unhooking/ getting bump board ready etc... I see so many guys on the water with fish in the net and watching the net handle flopping all over and the fish about getting away..simple..easy!
can be seen in this pic
Edited by BNelson 2/9/2016 10:47 AM
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Location: minocqua, wi. | another nice rigging trick i put on my trailer (don't have a picture handy) ... but i mounted a ratchet strap on the front post of my trailer to use as a safety latch, so winch the boat up with the winch strap and then also secure the ratchet strap. tight, snug and quick!! |
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Location: north central wisconsin | jonnysled - 2/9/2016 7:03 AM
Another great tip I learned at AML quite a few years ago from Bill (can't remember his last name) who spends like a month there each year. on the EDIT: front hook of a double 10, disconnect the hook and add a 2-way swivel and attach it to the split ring and the hook. this allows the hook to swing further away from the shaft and not get tangled in the tinsel. it also swings more freely to anchor into a fish.
Good tip. We run a piece of shrink tubing down the shank of the hook to the bend, dab of hot glue or epoxy on bottom of hook where bends come together as I shrink the tube, eliminating that faction of flash-tangle as well which aids in hooking and lessens lure rolling at the same time.
Edited by Reef Hawg 2/9/2016 12:43 PM
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Posts: 1200
Location: Walker, MN | This one has been mentioned before but works great. Putting a hook with the point and barb cut off at the line end of a long trolling leader works great for catching weeds before they foul your bait.
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Location: Eastern Ontario | Masqui-ninja - 2/9/2016 5:44 PM
This one has been mentioned before but works great. Putting a hook with the point and barb cut off at the line end of a long trolling leader works great for catching weeds before they foul your bait.
I did that for a few years and put it into my hand twice and had it tangle in the net more than once. I now take a 3 inch piece of vinyl tubing and cut 4 slits in one end about 2 inches long splay them out and string in your line ahead of the leader with the fingers facing the reel Some place a bead in the fingers to keep them splayed but not necessary and wont catch in the net.
You can also take a 6 inch piece of weed whacker line and knot it in the top swivel of a leader with 3 inches hanging out each side it will keep your lure weed free for a long time.
Edited by horsehunter 2/9/2016 5:02 PM
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Location: minocqua, wi. | this one might be obvious and i can't remember who showed it to me or when but with rods not in use after latching your snap to the hook holder near the reel seat, take the line in one finger in the middle and make a couple rotations of the rod and then secure it over an eyelet. this way you never have lines and multiple rods getting tangled up in themselves when laying together in a pile.
^great tip on the weed whacker line Frank!! ... that one's worth remembering. |
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Location: new richmond, wi. & isle, mn | jonnysled - 2/9/2016 5:27 PM
this one might be obvious and i can't remember who showed it to me or when but with rods not in use after latching your snap to the hook holder near the reel seat, take the line in one finger in the middle and make a couple rotations of the rod and then secure it over an eyelet. this way you never have lines and multiple rods getting tangled up in themselves when laying together in a pile.
^great tip on the weed whacker line Frank!! ... that one's worth remembering. Great tip! I learned this years ago from a gal that was on a old Saturday morning fishing show. Funny how it's caught on with the circle I fish with. |
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Location: Mauston, Wisconsin | 1. How to tie flouro leaders from Ranger....no crimps involved, today I can tie 180lb if I want to, the fundamental issue with crimps on either mono or flouro is that the material will cold flow so the cross sectional area of material in the crimped area is reduced to the crimp area diameter. That effectively makes your leader weaker than what you think it is. I have been tieing flouro for ~ 14 years... no knot failures. Yes, Norm - no bite off's either.....The only failure I've had is when I tied powerpro 65lb directly to a 80lb fluoro loop at end of the leader with a Palomar. The superline cut the flouro while trolling for trophy walleyes when it got hooked up on a submerged tree - this was in the early days, I was able to see the lure and retrieve it, and see what happened. All of those leaders got reworked...immediately as we sat in the boat.
Now I use back to back nail knots (cinch knots - using a tie-fast tool) to connect my superbraid to the flouro leader.
2. From Howie Meyer - Pay very close attention to all the little stuff....it bites to loose big fish because of hardware, knot's, snaps, etc. Eliminate as many points of failure as possible...
3. From Beaver Slivinski = T- the front & belly hooks on crank baits, jerk baits, and twitch baits, it keeps the lure from looking like the bottom two middle one - "Drive By" Lil Ernie & Stump Knocker Jake below. All are Stan Durst paints...
Its hard enough just getting hooked up with a really big fish... the FG knot looks interesting, thanks.
Have fun!
Al
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Location: minocqua, wi. | ESOX Maniac - 2/9/2016 6:12 PM
the fundamental issue with crimps on either mono or flouro is that the material will cold flow so the cross sectional area of material in the crimped area is reduced to the crimp area diameter. That effectively makes your leader weaker than what you think it is.
Stick to Electrical ...
Signed ... Chem E ...
Edited by jonnysled 2/9/2016 6:21 PM
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Location: new richmond, wi. & isle, mn | Another tip I learned from Steve Heiting years ago is to split ring all my leaders. No snaps. I make all my own leaders and split ring all my baits to the leader swivel. With a quality split ring plier I can change baits as fast as the next guy. There are a few baits with eyelets that need to be double swiveled. |
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| Useing a boga grip to unhook deeply hooked fish works well. Just grab the bottem jaw with the boga and lean the boga grip up against the boat and they're jaw gets pryed open and it keeps your hands and wrists away from hooks n teeth.-Hammernick
I drill little holes into the top of my planner boards and stick a mini glow stick in them like the ones the cat guys use for rod tips while I'm night trolling.
Keeping your trolling motor in the water while trolling is good not only to control the boat when the kicker or big motor are in neutral or idol especially in wind while fighting a fish but it's great to use the depth finder on your TM as a guideline and a warning when it's getting to shallow. Most times gives u enough time to swing out before ur baits get there. U have the whole length of the boat plus how ever much line to your baits to correct yourself then.
Taking a torch or a lighter lightly to your soft plastics to give them a shiny or almost wet look works great.-Scott Kieper
I've caught some fish on my version of the Burger King rig the guys out east use. Instead of a believer with a spoon trailer I like 14 in jakes with a 6-8 in piece of fluorocarbon attached where the back hook would be to a mini medudsa or spring dawg trailing. I gotta beleive it would work awesome with headlocks and other big trolling baits to.
Experimenting with heavier leaders with baits like shallow invaders jakes ect to make them more nuetrually buoyant.
This is a great thread to help pass the cabin fever!!! Keep em comin! |
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Location: central Wisconsin | Back your drags and bearings off on your reels every night. |
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Location: MN | Great thread. I have learned a lot.
I fish alone a lot and have found the yoke of my net fits perfectly wedged into my boat cleat, holding the net securely leaving me free to get tools and camera ready.
My camera has a custom delayed timer. I can set it up to take as many photos as I want with however many seconds delay I need. I have it set for five photos with a ten second delay. The camera mounts to a flexible arm camera mount.
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Location: Minnesota. | jonnysled - 2/8/2016 11:37 AM
I'll start it out with a couple ...
1. Double Your Line for Cranking and Ripping around Rocks ... simply take the end of your line and bring it as far up the main line as you want "doubled" and then pinch the end of the line and main line in one hand, then using the loop end simply tie and overhand knot where you are pinching the end. trim and you have doubled line down to the leader that will be less prone to break if frayed by rocks. this is a simple and logical trick i learned from Herbie ...
2. Tying Braid to Fluoro Direct ... this knot is a great one and i really see benefits tying fluoro leaders directly to braid for smallie, walleye and panfish fishing. it allows me to keep the same lightweight braid on the spool at all times without having to switch out the mainline. i just manage line wt. of leaders depending on what i'm fishing and at least i've come to believe that fluoro makes at all leader weights. once you practice a few times it's easy to tie anywhere and under any conditions with any line-weight.
http://www.fishcrack.com/fishing-101-how-to-tie-the-fg-knot-stronge...
Man, I'm a fly fisherman in another life and I thought I'd found most of the best/coolest knots. Guess knot (cough, cough ) as this ones a winner I'd never heard of!
Not too sure I'd ever use it in my apps. but it's really good to know how its tied and works!
Thanks. |
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Location: Mauston, Wisconsin | LOL- "Stick to Electrical ...
Signed ... Chem E ..."
So those littlle chains of fluoro or mono can't cold flow if compressed? I suppose its not as fluid as when its extruded at temp, but it will happen over time - I like physic's too Sled. Any compressible material will naturally flow to alleviate the compression, old window glass even cold flows over time in response to gravity..... Thats where the ripples come from! Crimp away, its your choice... much like trolling eh? Copper compresses, but surface contact surface area is more critical for reliable electrical current connections.
Have fun!
Good luck with your crimps...
Al |
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Location: minocqua, wi. | To a point, but draw orientation, tensilizing and annealing used in this application it's for sure not going to be the weak link. Glacial cold-flow maybe. |
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| Maybe you smart science guys can prove a ridiculous theory...No science here, purely based on observation! I joked with a buddy two years ago that I thought crimps were stronger than knots because they can't cut line like knots. I know this probably can't be true and certain knots don't apply pressure that way but...We we're catching 20lb+ Permit out of a giant school around a tower. We had to stop 'em quick because they were so close to the tower and had hooked and lost several as we ramped up our gear. We ended up with 100# mono leaders on TDL15 cranked to max drag(Permit in deep water are impressive!) I first used a tarpon loop and broke the knot (TLD15=over 30# of drag pressure+thumbs) Crimped a new hook on and landed one. Now I'm curious so I tied another one with tarpon loop except added a turn to the second part of the knot(essentially a figure 8 locked into a 3 turn nail knot) resulted in another knot failure...now I'm questioning my knots so I googled and tied a perfection loop and broke it!! Went back to crimps and landed another one. Thoughts? Would my results have been different with Fluoro? I hate heavy mono...always seems soft! |
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Posts: 1970
| Ben..Would you see a difference? No...Its why guys that fish to feed their family with 600LB + Bluefin Tuna on the end of their line.. choose to crimp leaders over tying them! Crimps work.
Edited by IAJustin 2/9/2016 8:56 PM
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Location: minocqua, wi. | when those materials tensilize, they get stronger, not weaker as the molecules line up and even as it "thins out" under a tensile load, the material gets stronger to (peak load). you could argue that a knot puts stress on the molecular chains under a tensile load creating a weak point at the apex of the knot to the line to the point where it could weaken the filament, but it absolutely doesn't add any "strength" or "toughness - modulus" to the material itself.
it you had a tag end from a knot and a tag end from a crimp that could be held by jaws and put it into an instron for pure linear tensile pull, i could almost guarantee the knot would break under a lower peak load and i bet i could guess with accuracy where it would break.
i'm not sure if i have a load cell big enough to test it, but i'll put it on my list.
that's precisely why i went to the FG knot for lighter-weight presentations ... the "knot" is stronger because the fluoro leader is in-line.
how do you think things like tear-tapes, strapping tapes and tapes for woven shipping containers are made? they are expected to withstand the World's toughest tensile and modulus applications in the world of transporting goods under extreme loads.
mono vs. fluoro ... i haven't studied the exact structure of the polymers, but we know they are different, so different chain lengths, sizes and molecular wt. distribution ... maybe molecular wt. distribution (avg. chain size or consistency - this is where brand to brand may vary) ... where they differ from each other is in the force-elongation. where the y axis is peak load (tensile strength) and the x axis is relative strain (elongation) ... the one with the largest area under the curve is considered to be the "toughest". some material go to a high peak load and break (these are usually relatively high mw. materials that are "harder" like polyesters, while others may not hit the highest peak load but stretch against the load may be better for certain applications. that elongation is the "tensilizing" stretch the material is undergoing and why you might be calling it "soft". it's the whole bend but don't break concept. for this reason you can buy a broad range of nylons as an example ... from hard/brittle (barefoot nylon 6) to soft (add plasticizers and get amorphous nylon 669). same for other materials.
Edited by jonnysled 2/10/2016 7:14 AM
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Posts: 2752
Location: Mauston, Wisconsin | Sled, Where is a cinch knot, a.k.a. nail knot going to break? I like the FG knot, its smaller diameter with super braid on outside. I'm thinking back to back cinch knot with braid in center is better as the fluoro wraps help protect the braid from the guides, etc.... maybe its not an issue - I'm going to give the FG a shot. Thanks!
To answer the question about the permit hooks, just snell the hooks w/100lb fluoro leader, then attach leader w/hook to main line with either FG knot or back to back nail knot's. Get the Magnum Tie-Fast to make snells or cinch knot/nail knots, or a stiff plastic straw or small piece of hollow copper tubing...you can even snell trebles.
Hi-Sea's is the toughest flouro carbon I've found for abrasion resistance, my methods of testing fluoro hardness is probably a bit more primitive than Sled's, I bite it! Your teeth won't lie to you, just don't tell your dentist that you bite +80lb fluoro...LOL I bought every brand of fluoro I could find @ 80lb....including Seagar. Seagar is most supple for knots, I worry more about abrasion resistance.......and the water refraction index, the only problem with fluoro is cost/ft versus hard mono...I catch all kinds of fish on Hi-Sea's 80lb fluoro leaders, walleye's, smallies, northerns, muskies, and lake trout. Sometimes I drop to 50lb or 30lb...if I know there's no big girls hanging around...big girls need special attention to details....to get hooked up with one of them!
Have fun!
Al
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Posts: 13688
Location: minocqua, wi. | would maybe be best to separate the subject of material strength to rigging tips. i'd rather see this thread continue to grow by folks contributing to other creative tips.
on your question, the answer is "it depends" ... tell me the failure mode you want to protect against and then material properties can be evaluated to consider that mode. there are times (hardness vs. toughness) that you will find yourself in a catch-22 and that's why nothing is perfect because one material usually can't do everything ... that's why God invented Co-Extrusions and Blenders. |
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Posts: 600
Location: Michigan | BNelson - 2/9/2016 11:44 AM
another simple one is to take a rod holder thing like this http://www.basspro.com/Bass-Pro-Shops-Poly-Rod-Strap-Rod-Holder/pro... ... put it on your back deck or wherever you normally net / unhook fish where the handle would sit... on my 690 I put one on top of the battery compartment right in the middle running parallel w the boat...put net handle under it while you are unhooking/ getting bump board ready etc... I see so many guys on the water with fish in the net and watching the net handle flopping all over and the fish about getting away..simple..easy!
can be seen in this pic
Good tip! I was looking for something to solve this problem when I fish alone and this looks like it will work properly. |
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Posts: 21
| Anyone else try the FG knot yet? I tried it with 130lb fluro and 80lb power pro and had mixed results. some held well and some started to slip. Any thoughts on if adding epoxy to the finished know would cause more harm then good? |
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Posts: 13688
Location: minocqua, wi. | I don't use the FG for heavy fluoro ... there may be better choices for that. |
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Posts: 163
| Born - 2/9/2016 8:09 PM
Great thread. I have learned a lot.
I fish alone a lot and have found the yoke of my net fits perfectly wedged into my boat cleat, holding the net securely leaving me free to get tools and camera ready.
My camera has a custom delayed timer. I can set it up to take as many photos as I want with however many seconds delay I need. I have it set for five photos with a ten second delay. The camera mounts to a flexible arm camera mount.
What camera are you using, that has those timer settings? |
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Posts: 154
Location: MN | Cannon power shot. I have had it for 8 years. |
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Location: Contrarian Island | fishing solo my samsung phone has voice mode that you simply say "capture" and it takes the pic. No more self timer camera ever needed....
Edited by BNelson 2/10/2016 5:19 PM
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Location: Grand Rapids, MI | BNelson - 2/10/2016 5:49 PM fishing solo my samsung phone has voice mode that you simply say "capture" and it takes the pic. No more self timer camera ever needed.... Love that feature, I've had poor results in wind though.
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Location: Contrarian Island | yah, You really gotta yell it in wind ! |
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Location: Sawyer County, WI | horsehunter - 2/9/2016 4:58 PM
You can also take a 6 inch piece of weed whacker line and knot it in the top swivel of a leader with 3 inches hanging out each side it will keep your lure weed free for a long time.
Now there's one I'll be using this year. D@mn weeds ! |
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Posts: 4269
Location: Ashland WI | Will Schultz - 2/11/2016 11:03 AM
BNelson - 2/10/2016 5:49 PM fishing solo my samsung phone has voice mode that you simply say "capture" and it takes the pic. No more self timer camera ever needed.... Love that feature, I've had poor results in wind though.
I downloaded an app on my phone this summer. A whistle would trigger the camera. A few weeks later, I caught a PB. I was so amped up (and breathing heavy), I could not whistle.....
I had to flag down a passing boat to take a pic for me. |
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Posts: 1906
Location: Oconto Falls, WI | Use either wooden or solid plastic jointed cranks with metal lips to convert into countdown baits. A lot of countdown cranks have little action on a slow retrieve. Take a jointed one, add drill a hole(s) in belly, and fill with lead to make it a sinker. Then bend the metal lip down to achieve the desired action. Between the metal lip and the joint you now have a countdown crank with good action without needing to reel it fast or jerk it.
Can also be done with straight cranks for a different action.
Caution: Too much lead will lead to a dead crank no matter how far you bend that lip!
Another way that is simple but often overlooked is to buy the double line-tie metal lips and put on a crank like a Ciscokid. Run the lure in the line tie closest to the end of lip (shallow setting). The lip usually turns the bait into a sinker, and gets you some pretty crazy action. |
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Posts: 16632
Location: The desert | Will Schultz - 2/11/2016 11:03 AM
BNelson - 2/10/2016 5:49 PM fishing solo my samsung phone has voice mode that you simply say "capture" and it takes the pic. No more self timer camera ever needed.... Love that feature, I've had poor results in wind though.
This would never work for me. I dont know what fishing without the wind howling is like, I've never experienced it. |
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Posts: 39
Location: Lawrenceburg,IN | You can also use rubber bands tied to your line. rubber bands will go through eyes and do no damage |
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Location: Eastern Ontario | dfkiii - 2/11/2016 12:27 PM
horsehunter - 2/9/2016 4:58 PM
You can also take a 6 inch piece of weed whacker line and knot it in the top swivel of a leader with 3 inches hanging out each side it will keep your lure weed free for a long time.
Now there's one I'll be using this year. D@mn weeds !
I do this with a 5 foot trolling leader never tried it casting didn't think guys from Wisconsin trolled |
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Posts: 2752
Location: Mauston, Wisconsin | Agree- 100%.
Best tip from Howie Meyer: Eliminate hardware failures: cheap anything usually bites, big time-> rods, reels, hooks, snaps, swivels, split rings, lines, leaders, lures...I change out a lot of hooks and split rings on lures, some of the higher quality stuff I don't touch, except to T the hooks (Beaver Slivinski) or pinch down the barbs or maybe upgrade the hooks.
Here's one of mine: If you troll a propwash lure you can get it down to the rear deck level close to the motor and center of the booat with a saltwater outrigger clip....they cost more, but are worth it. The clip lanyard attaches to the boat, and the rod is up at ~45 deg angle. When the fish hits the rod loads up and the clip releases setting the hooks same as down rigger rodd. The boat hull pushes loose weeds away so rear transom and prop wash is relatively weed free. My prop wash or flatline hardly ever foul with weeds. Its also the most productive for actual hook ups and fish in the boat. Of course ESOX Maniac is in hibernation. I'll post a photo of the clip and a description next week...to much going on next 5 days..
One from Eric Larsen "Muskie E" seminar at last years Wausau Show: To stop bucktails from rolling, if they have enough front shaft that is bare, bend ~1-2" on front shaft and line attachment up at 45 degree angle. The 45 deg angle & length of shaft bent up will make it behave like a keel wieghted spinner....no rolling! You shouldn't even need a swivel...(eliminate potential hardware failure or unneccessary hardware). Same profile and fish attraction....as a straight shaft bucktail.
Have fun!
Al |
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Posts: 2004
| Make sure your snap is closed before casting... |
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Posts: 88
Location: Wisconsin | For both trolling and fishing with suckers, I've been tying a Stay-loc snap onto my main line and attaching my trolling and sucker leaders to it. When I want to add weight, I simply open the snap and slide a bell sinker on to it. The sinker also works good for catching weeds when trolling. Tom |
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Posts: 3518
Location: north central wisconsin | As a followup, I tied the FG knot for my first time this weekend before heading to an ice fishing tournament Saturday. I was using 10lb Suffix Braid with 8lb floro leader for walleye jigging on the flowage. I had some difficulty tying with these lighter lines, though after about 4 tries, went to 26 wraps instead of 20, and it held fine. I'm thinking this knot isn't as suited for the light lines, as the wraps might not be 'stacking' as they should. I tie alot of leaders with 6-20lb smooth(suffix 832 or nanofil) braid to 4-10lb leaders for winter through summer panfish bass and walleye jigging and rigging. I have used the J knot sitorically though it can prove difficult to tie in the boat. Do you guys suggest a knot for these line calibers for out in the boat? Stick with the FG, and just get better at it?
8 year old daughter did get second place cash prize Saturday on a dead-stick rig with the FG. She was excited to tell grandpa, though not as excited to share the cash with dad..
Edited by Reef Hawg 2/15/2016 11:42 AM
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Posts: 1220
| I remember a discussion with one of the most famous among us when the new Ranger FS series came standard with the rod-straps you see on bass rigs. I was happy I didn't have to install it myself any more, and he was miffed he had to remove his. I really never thought about his point that it is a "trip hazard." He's right, it is, even if I like having it there. But, it's no where near the trip hazard mounting something on the rear casting deck for holding the net might prove to be. A good net should stay put (more or less) with the bag jammed into a cleat that's only in the way when you retract it. Naturally, I fall in my boat more than most! |
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Location: Contrarian Island | another one for boat rigging that I think is well worth it is to add the minn kota dc charger if you fish big water... charges your TM batteries on the fly and is well worth the money.... works awesome on lakes like LOTW where you run miles from spot to spot |
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